Fresh Water Drain Leaking

Has anyone replaced their fresh water drain valve? I just noticed yesterday that the valve is leaking around the plastic flange that comes in contact with the bottom of the camper. How is the valve set up attached to the water tank? Barbed, glued or screw clamp ?? Any advice before I break something would be appreciated!!

2007 ATC Panther

Mine is a simple screw type valve but I suspect they've done things better now (Eagle 2003 model) but ATC replaced it for me last year and it was screwed in with 2 screws. I think the actual valve part where the "handle" is actually lifts out with a gasket that you can replace (that's was ATC told me to do when it gets hard to turn and lube the gasket).

kmcintyre said:

I think the actual valve part where the "handle" is actually lifts out with a gasket that you can replace (that's was ATC told me to do when it gets hard to turn and lube the gasket).

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Thanks for posting this, I bet mine is overdue, stiff and leaking a bit.

The valves are very inexpensive, most rv stores have them. Takes 5 minutes to change.

Must be time for our annual valve discussion If you want can get one of these. http://www.ebay.com/itm/RV-FRESH-WATER-DRAIN-VALVE-FLANGE-3-8-or-1-2-WONT-FAIL-EVER-AGAIN-WHITE-/171070722860?pt=Motors_RV_Trailer_Camper_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27d49c132c&vxp=mtr

I installed a small brass ball valve as per one of the past leaking, broken, frozen valve discussions.

Thanks for the replies. The drain valve is simply screwed into the bottom of the water tank through the bottom of the camper. I replaced the teflon tape and added a rubber washer to take up the space between the tank and camper bottom. The fix will do for now until next time.

kmcintyre said:

I think the actual valve part where the "handle" is actually lifts out with a gasket that you can replace (that's was ATC told me to do when it gets hard to turn and lube the gasket).

Click to expand...

I have the plastic type, do I just work the valve handle out? I bought a new valve just incase...mine is super stiff.

Craig, thanks for the post. The next time I need to replace valve, I am going to look into the one you posted. Looks like a much better set up.

Kodachrome said:

I have the plastic type, do I just work the valve handle out? I bought a new valve just incase...mine is super stiff.

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My water drain lever and drain body is completely plastic too. I just twisted the complete plastic drain body counter-clockwise. It's right hand threaded. The plastic drain body unscrews from the bottom of the fresh water tank. The wood camper bottom is sandwiched between the fresh water tank and plastic flange of the drain.

Must be time for our annual valve discussion If you want can get one of these. http://www.ebay.com/itm/RV-FRESH-WATER-DRAIN-VALVE-FLANGE-3-8-or-1-2-WONT-FAIL-EVER-AGAIN-WHITE-/171070722860?pt=Motors_RV_Trailer_Camper_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27d49c132c&vxp=mtr

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That's what I put on my fwc. it drains slow but who cares

The fresh water valve problem was more than a minor irritation for me. Earlier this summer some of the diluted bleach solution (part of the purification process) leaked and actually etched lines in my then brand new truck. As you might guess, this did not make me happy. I put a plug in it at that time and need to replace the valve with something of better quality, as has been suggested in this thread.

craig333 said:

Must be time for our annual valve discussion If you want can get one of these. http://www.ebay.com/itm/RV-FRESH-WATER-DRAIN-VALVE-FLANGE-3-8-or-1-2-WONT-FAIL-EVER-AGAIN-WHITE-/171070722860?pt=Motors_RV_Trailer_Camper_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27d49c132c&vxp=mtr

Click to expand...

I did this same valve on my 2013 Hawk as it drains out the back. On my 2002 Hawk with the tank on the side like the ATC I put in an elbow where the valve was. Ran a tube to the back and put in a hose valve. I really liked having the valve to get water out side if needed, it also drained fast. The new valve is clean but it drains slow, too slow if you wanted to get water for use.

I'll replace mine when I put the camper in "Dry-Dock" for a day to re-paint the lower wood sections and inspect the thing...I have not had it off the truck since 2011.

I am working up the gumption to tear my water system completely out to gain the space. I have never used it.
I just use the 2 gal. rectangular generic purified water containers from the supermarket. The built in water system is just too much to worry about maintaining cleanly and safely. Right now the sink is just a catch-all container for odds and ends that never get put away properly.
The water jugs I buy fit under the sofa, so it keeps the C.G. low.

Appears different type valves were used, over the yrs. mine on 99 Grandby. I was told not to put a brass valve into the plastic threads of tank, can tear them up. And got tired of leaking Camco junk valves. So, I used a Pex type valve I found at Home Depot with male pipe thread on one end and push in 3/8" OD poly hose fitting on end. Keep a short section of hose in propane tank compartment near by to drain away from fender or fill bottles etc. Just stick hose in end, has one way grip, push up on collar to remove hose. Had stock valves leaking within months this one has much better valve guts no leaks for 2 yrs. now. Similar to this, at HD, but mine looks like different brand, this got one bad review:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Watts-1-4-in-x-1-4-in-Plastic-Straight-Valve-PL-3012/100203926

Camco:
http://www.rvautoparts.com/product.asp?itemid=3641&gclid=CMer5er66cACFVVsfgodtYEALg



Mine:

I did something similar to BillHarr's set-up. Used a bronze ball-valve and a plastic 90° fitting in the bottom of the tank. The exit end of the ball-valve has a garden hose adapter screwed into it so that I can use our sink drain hose to route the water off the truck when emptying the tank. I do have some concern about it freezing in cold weather, but so far that hasn't been an issue.

Oh, mine has frozen numerous times if you force it, it will break. if I need to use it, I heat some water on stove put in a spray bottle and spray it down. I find it most handy when I need to wash my hands when outside....Could put a piece of foam around it......

My plastic one got stiff because it was dirty from road dust. I removed it and cleaned it by soaking brushing with an artist brush and now the valve turns better. I'm thinking about applying some silicon grease (better for plastic) but maybe it will attract more dirt?? I'm going to try a cork in the spout might keep dirt out to keep the valve turning nicely. I question some of the modifications listed here due to issues with freezing during shoulder months. I like having a valve that works well so we can fill our solar shower.