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Very good news, I'm sure your staff is glad to be back.. Many thanks to Brain @ service for all the info and quick replies on my panel replacement.

Thanks, Wuck. I had to do it in two pieces with an overlap joint, aluminum bracing is in the way, not allowing panel to drop in place. Panel is epoxy sealed and prefinished ready to drop in, waiting on the weather, suppose to have 2-4" rain this weekend.

Are you exhausting out through the louvers originally used for the fridge? Does it seem adequate, no heat build up inside compartment?

Will look into that. Thanks

Thanks Ski, got a reply from Brian @ FWC, same as you are saying. Just trying to avoid removing majority of camper internals. As of now I'm leaning towards a 2 piece installation with a 3-4" half lap joint using W system epoxy. Installing the jacks now and should have camper off today. Going to...

Ok, I'm open to ideas here, do I remove/install panel from the outside or remove/install through the inside of the camper. Either way the camper will need to be off the truck. Outside option means having to remove aluminum trim and lower extrusion, then reversing order to install new panel...

Thanks for replying. My plan was to cut the panel to size, then coat with west system, double coating the edge grain. All fastener holes will get a dab of 4200 and fully chaulk the perimeter with the same.

Replacing the bottom panel in the cab over of my 2005 Hawk. Planning on using marine grade plywood since there are no voids in it, will be using either 1/2" or 5/8", haven't removed it as yet so not exactly sure what thickness is original. Thought about using HDPE but it's heavy and would sag...

I use a Devilbiss DV54, both in the camper and at home, it's quiet, compact, runs on 115v or 12v(no adapter required). Can't remember the amp draw but it was fairly low. I have, 60w solar and a 55 a/hr battery. Never had an issue with it running the battery down, except one time when it rained 3...

As Longhorn said, use a polyurethane sealant for screws and small bedding applications. I use 3M 4000, 4200, or 5200 depending on the application. It is very important to properly clean and prep your surfaces, remove any rust from screws or replace with new. The sealant also acts like thread...

Buy a couple small cans of Minwax, golden oak and med. oak and mix you own custom color till you get what you want.

When I was accessing my water pump for maintenance I had to remove a inside wall of a cabinet below the sink. Upon removal I was surprised at the amount of usable space that was hidden. I ended up removing 2 of these inner walls. Like Boonie said, open the drawers and cabinets and make a plan.

The flare fitting where the copper tubing connects requires no teflon tape, however the pipe threads on the other end of the 90 should have teflon tape or a paste type sealer applied. Use a soap solution after you repair the leak to check it.

Most of us use AGM for a few different reasons but a common one is the off gassing issue associated with a wet cell lead acid. Be cautious if the battery compartment is not vented.

Same technology trolling motor manufacturers started using 30+ years ago. Battery run time was greatly improved.

Just some thoughts as to repairing this; Noticing the cracks begin at the weld, which is the weakest area of the aluminum due to heating during the welding process. Since this area wants to flex and you are limited by original design on how robust you can modify it, it might make sense to repair...

The fact that it's just one light and not all parking lights, there is a possibility that it is a grounding issue. Check to see if the light is grounded locally(to frame/chassis) or it is in the harness and returns to a main ground buss. Clean grd connection at chassis and/or connectors and...

As Vic mentioned you can double up or have corner gussets welded into that open square to the right of the upright. I would fab a "T" plate and weld it in place over the cracks after they have been repaired/welded.

I've had my Hawk on a 06 tundra then a 2012 F250. I equipped both with Bilstien 4600s. Mostly paved back roads and gravel with some washboard thrown in. They have performed well and holding up fine.

I carry a kit, never used it yet on the truck/camper but I have repaired many a bicycle flat and a few flats on other vehicles at home with it. Find a good high volume compressor to go with it.

Would like to hear a comparison between the 3.5 and the 5.0 motors once you get some time on the new truck.

Ditto all the above, I clean the burner with compressed air when ever the cooling falls off. No matter how good the flame looks prior to that, it always looks even better afterwards. Had to replace the burner with new last season as there was surface rust that had swelled and reduced the slot size.

Nice set up, should do the job handily..

I built a riser out of treated 2x2s, kind of a ladder frame. leaves about 2-2.5" between the cab roof and camper. I wouldn't use sheet foam or anything solid that doesn't allow for air circulation to avoid rotting out the floor of the camper

Is there an internal fuse to protect the board?