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I Looked at both those units about 2 years ago and decided on the GB70. I wanted a unit that had enough power to start my 6.2 gasser when the battery was dead, not just low. Another plus is we can use it to charge cell phones several times if needed and still have enough charge left to jump the...

Shade and a breeze, good swim hole, or 110v and 5,000 BTUs. We try to enjoy the higher elevations during the summer.

Lightening the front axle will be detrimental to braking(stopping distance) and steering(loss of)and can reach a point of critical loss. Way Overloaded the rear of my 4x4 suburban many years ago with a pallet of pavers. First turn i hit the brakes to slow down and started my turn, the truck...

You might be able to use boat deck hatches(opening or non-opening) that are water tight. Maybe turn those areas into shallow outside accessible storage compartments depending on how much interior intrusion you mind.. Keep a tarp, rope, leveling boards there? Leave the hinged louvers on the lower...

Should be able to get one at a grill shop.

If you want to keep it simple and minimize cost, stay with AGM batteries, but be sure to get true deep cycle type, DO NOT get dual purpose type, like Optima etc. 2 new healthy 24 series batteries might cure your ills, but if you need more capacity, consider moving up to a 27 or 31 series...

Noticed the same thing on my struts. Wipe them down a few times per year with some gun lube, both the housing and the shaft when extended..

Unless weight or space on the roof is a issue, going from a 150 watt system to the slight overage of a 200 watt system will be a plus when it comes to getting your batteries charged back up quickly. Shading, clouds, rainy days, on roof mounted panels will/can reduce panel output severely and if...

Wanting to replace my Norcold N300X with the same style fridge(not a chest type) with a 12v/120v type. My question is: is there a direct replacement to fit the cut out? Cut out = 29 3/4H x 20 1/2W x 21 3/8D. So far brand consideration is Norcold, Dometic, Truck Fridge. Any other suggestions are...

That's a very large gap shown in the picture, hard to tell but you might have another issue along with the gasket. Maybe a warped door or worn hinge or hinge bushings, hinge alignment?

I have a Norcold 3 way that works well, until the temps start creeping into the high 80s-90s. If it ever dies, it will be replaced by a compressor type. If your plans include any desert or camping down south opt for the compressor type. Install adequate sized solar and a good size battery bank.

Side note for CG2017: My door leaked on my 2005 Hawk in heavy rain also. Was coming in at the top of the door. I attached a wider(front to back) drip edge to the the door frame top to correct the problem.

Educated guess, bad sensor or thermostat. I would do a google search, yours's might not be the first with this problem

Nope

If you epoxy coat be sure to remove(per instructions) any amine blush before painting or you will need get good paint adhesion. oh, and don't forget the primer. I used porch/deck paint for the exterior wood on my Hawk, very durable product.

Camper looks to be in nice condition, enjoy the new found room and comforts. Happy wife, happy life.

Another thing to check; be sure the canvas is folding correctly and out of the way. In cold weather when the canvas is stiff it sometimes requires a bit of attention so its not caught in the weather seal.

If the passenger side strut is bottoming out before the weather strip seal is compressed by the roof, then it will leak. Unless your roof is tweaked, it appears the struts are not spaced/mounted properly.

My Camper had the same issue, leak was failure of the weather seal strip in the front that wraps around to the sides. Hawk is a 2005, and the hollow section of the stripping had collapsed from age. I inserted a piece of 1/8 vacuum line into it to restore it's shape and have never had a leak...

I don't believe you'll be much better off venting to the truck bed. If there was a leak, gas could accumulate in the wheel well areas and under the camper, especially on a windless day/night. Back wall would be a better choice.

To your questions: #1- I remove seats to keep them clean and dry. Handle bars are above the hood line but not interfering with fwd vision. #2- headlight bean shines through the spokes but there is no noticeable impact to the beam. #3- No change in mpg that I noticed. #4- mounted to the brush...

Ditto on the above comment about using compressed air to clean the burner orifice. I do it prior to any trip, weekend or long term. Going to add a can of dust off to my tool kit before my summer trip

I modified a hitch rack(2 bike) so it mounts on the brush guard on the front. No more bikes in the way of the camper door and they don't get covered in oily road grime on wet pavement or mud when driving dirt roads in the rain, (at least not as bad as when rear mounted). Bonus: moved all that...

Congrats, sounds like you got the rig you wanted.

If your replacing the truck, get what you(read camper) needs, an 8' bed. Either a 1/2 ton with a payload option or 3/4 ton or bigger.