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Epoxy would work and you might be able to find it in the correct color. Mix it thick and put a piece of packing tape over it till it cures.

You are correct, you will/can spend money just as fast as a boat owner. In fact you'll find a lot of gear for boats is quite applicable for these campers. Blue Sea electrical products is one such item, buy quality, buy once.

I gave up on the thermal pack, doesn't get cold enough where I camp in the winter and It's easier to wipe the condensation off the canvas with it off. Although it helps when we use the A/C(rarely) it hinders the canvas tucking in when we drop the top, so I have it out and stored away. I have the...

Since my camper is stored outside, I let my solar keep the battery up when the camper just sits, the controller has a stepped charging system, so it goes into float/maintenance mode when charging is done. If your camper is inside, solar is out but you can use a battery tender(float charger) as...

Do you have the brackets also?

Same as Xjintx. I went from a 06 access cab to a f250 4x4 gasser. While i feel that I now have enough truck, I would consider a 1 ton next time around. 3/4 ton can sometimes feel like it is maxed out when you hit a big dip in the road at speed(road/bridge transition etc). 1 ton would give you...

Is it possible that electrolysis is a contributing factor? Is the frame used as a neg. ground?

I like that idea of using plastic strips, no wood, nothing organic for mold to thrive on. I made new replacement oak strips since I only had to replace 2 -3' sections.

No, I have never used the stainless or monel into the aluminum but have driven them into some very hard woods and HDPE. I rehung the wood strips in my camper with S.S. screws(easy to remove if needed.

The staples are referred to as Narrow Crown type.Most all nail gun manufacturers also have staplers. I have one made by Senco. A online search should turn up what you need. Staples can be had in stainless and monel, depending on size and gauge, thus eliminating the rust problem.If you are going...

I bought it from an RV supplier. Bob Dues in Dickinson Tx. You can google their website.

Behind the sink always gets wet when you use the faucet due to the short reach on the spout. Picked up this yesterday, thought it might work for some of you that have mentioned the same problem. Can't paste the page, so here is the part #. Phoenix Faucets 868535.

The solar panels have some discolored cells(possibly broken or shorted), might need attention. As for the solar wiring dropping out of the headliner: no its not factory or aesthetically pleasing but there are some people who have had problems with the wiring that runs behind the lift panels...

There is a FWC dealer in Denver, If I remember correctly they are on the N.W. side of town. Should not be to bad a drive from F.C.

Play it safe, get a volt meter and check polarity at all connections before terminating any wires, there have been issues with a couple rigs in the past.

As mentioned, steer clear of silicone for the roof. Any marine grade polyurethane will work well. I use 3m 5200, 4200 and 4000 depending on the application. Clean the vinyl with a mild detergent or just some 409 if not too dirty and apply some 303 to help keep it pliable, plus it has uv filters...

If the camper doesn't have a solar system installed, then your only charging sources will be shore power input through a charger/ inverter of some type and/or charging from the truck while it is running, provided your dad/you had it wired that way. As mentioned, be sure the main 12v switch is...

Don't want to hijack this discussion but I have entertained thoughts of replacing my drain with some type of spigot so I can use it for filling the dogs water bowl or just washing my hands outside the camper. Has anyone done this?

Has FWC ever built a Hawk or Eagle camper without the lower section(floor)? By that, I mean the sides mount to the top of the pickup bed sides and the camper floor would be the truck bed, just like a camper shell does.

Any of the 3m polyurethanes 4000, 4200 or 5200 will work well. 5200 should only be used if the install will be permanent, as it is very tough to remove. Life Caulk is another very good marine sealant and is a poly mix.

Yes, you should have no problems as long as your power requirements don't exceed the generators output rating(watts)

It's always a good idea to have things turned off or unplugged if no switch when hooking up to a power source whether a/c or d/c.

I've owned BFG Lt tires in the past and was pleased with them but went with Coopers on the F250/Hawk. I tried the new BFG ATs but they seemed to have a lot of sidewall flex, tires felt squishy at hwy speed even at 70-80 psi pressures. Coopers have been good so far, only 5k miles so the jury is...

First check the outlet at the camp site to be sure its on, if it is good then check the breakers in the camper. Still no volts and I would contact FWC.

As Vic said, your batteries will equalize. If you do go that route( 1house/1troll mo.), you would need an auto or manual method to regulate the charging till the trolling battery charge was equal to the house battery.