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Glenn - also, based on your numbers, it doesn't appear as if you are not staying fully charged. 13.79 is close to your float voltage. Is the battery resting at ~13v overnight and then going up when the sun starts charging it? If so, then it would seem to me that your battery is acting as it...

If your solar is getting good sun for a few hours each day they should do the charging well enough. Just try to sync it a few hours after the sun goes down. You shouldn't be seeing any significant discharge with your system turned off. Let us know if resyncing helps. Otherwise you'll need to...

Have you tried resyncing/calibrating when the batteries are resting, at night? I'd try that before tweaking your settings. You may need to drop your charged voltage setting slightly, say 0.1 or 0.2v below your aborption voltage and see if that makes a difference. Also, what is the absorption...

Fast gun Derringers are great. Large, heavy-duty backing plates for galvanized forged-steel eye bolts, positioned under the frame struts will help with the stresses of shock loading and twist.

Well, that's a drag. Sorry to hear that. At least you can get it running without the face plate (but it does seem odd that a properly aligned face plate and duct doesn't work). I've heard of a couple others on different forums discussing this and apparently altitude was their problem as well...

hawk shell: 2 Overland 160 semi-flex on z-bar aluminum frames fastened to tracks; 1 100AH LiFePo4.

JWL - Are you certain that the vent offset is the primary problem? Does removing the flexible duct always solve the problem of the furnace not staying lit or is it hit and miss? You've tried swapping out the sail switch kit? The only other thing I can think of that might cause the burner to not...

I believe that reference is to the vent cover, which is offset to the duct behind it, creating a slight bend in the duct and narrowing the opening. This may restrict full air flow and that may prevent the burner from staying lit. This has been reported as a problem. If this happens, the solution...

Yes, it's truly remarakble some of the stuff we install, just so that we will never have the need to use them. : )

There has been plenty of discussion on sail switches for the Dometic furnaces that were having trouble with igniting and staying lit. I just bought a spare sail switch w/bracket for mine (I wasn't having a problem, but simply wanted a backup): Mine is Dometic model DFSAD12111 (installed in a...

Yes, that's a sweet old 1st gen and before all the electronics. Will run over all our graves. Everything will be rebuilt, eventually, around that old workhorse Cummins. It was just broken in when you got it at 125K. Very cool!

Nicely done ck. I like that you found a way to maximize your exterior storage on your classic old Ram and slide-in camper. Clever, utilitarian mods, while keeping the lines of your bed in tact. Do you have the old, wildly simply12-valve diesel or is it a gasser? Alaska or bust. Where you...

x1 on bottle jack. Recently had to lift my Ram 2500 with a full load, on a dirt, uneven forest service road where I picked up a lag bolt, fortunately in the center of the tire treads. I used an 8-ton bottle jack under the axle. It went up remarkably easily with one handed operation. The jack...

So setting the Tail Current point protects the battery from overcharging [?] by shutting off the charger or going into float? ----------------------------------------------------- Something like that. It won't shut off the charger, your BMS will shut it down if it exceeds > 14.7v on a BB. The...

Nice try: ), but this definition refers to tail currents in medical-neuroscience applications. Rolls Batteries has an explanation closer to what we are talking about. Rolls is referring to their AGM batteries here, not Lithium, nonetheless, it's a pretty good simplistic explanation for Tail...

Rich, are you sure about the Tail Current? I had mine at 1%. Other than that, my settings are the same on all my Victron devices: 100/30 MPPT, Orion 12/30 Dc-DC and Ac to DC 25a charger. Absorb - 14.2 Float - 13.2...

JimBow - I sized my controller with the potential for adding an additional panel of the same size and type, later, if I wanted it. The 100/20 would have been fine otherwise. If I were to add a portable panel, down below, I would probably install a smaller, second Victron controller if the...

Phil, these are my settings (see above). I tried a slightly higher bulk and absorbtion, and a slightly higher float previous to this, but I find that these settings appear to work best for me. It keeps my 100AH BB (after it's topped off) resting, overnight until the sun comes out again at close...

Very cool. It did turn turn out killer. Enjoy the ride. Rich

Well, no Phil, it's not hard to miss. Their source is a moving target and sometimes obscure to find. I believe this was their latest revision. Also, I updated my last post with the settings that I use, which have worked out very well for me, to date. Rich

If you're interested, this is the BB manual, which spells out, pretty clearly, their charging parameters and suggested settings, and as has been suggested their BMS high voltage cutoff trigger is > 14.7v: https://dragonflyenergy.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/10012-Manual-FINAL.pdf My...

Jon, you had me too curious, I isolated the LEDs and took the reading :my meter read 0.5A total. So, there you go. Rich

x3 on the 6 ft. Clam. Easy to deploy and pack up, and will withstand strong wind, rain, and best of all swarming mosquitoes and flies. Worth it!

Jon, I can't imagine a dozen LED marker lights adding up to more than 1 amp. I haven't measured the draw but for what it's worth, if you were to buy LED markers that had 2-3 LEDs per lamp the typical draw is about 0.05A per lamp.