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Sold - $16K 2013 Hawk, loaded, Silver Spur exterior. Many of the newer model enhancements. This is in *very* good condition. New job in Florida means moving in September and no time to use it, no desire to store it, so choosing to sell it. Located in Woodinville, WA near Seattle. Currently...

Excellent find!

One rationale for the 30 Amp connection is to be a able to hook up properly with common 30A RV site power sources. It is OK to use a smaller source than the power cord and camper side wiring capacity, but not OK to use a smaller cord than the power source is set to protect. By using a small...

I went for the nylon sleeve appraoch due to concern for shifting with our sideways pull. They do specify zinc plated steel, not regular steel, so that in combination with the aluminum washer does reduce the galvanic voltage and places it at the replaceable washer/bolt interface. The big bed...

Agreed. Paralleling is complicated, hence not done often. Also only need to use the breaker that is needed. Not everyone needs 60A or even 30A, each installation is unique, though have many similarities.

Fixed, tnx.

If you have an aluminum body truck like the 2015+ Ford F150 and soon the 2017+ Super Duty trucks, here is a Ford bulletin on the recommended way to install attachments like our camper hold down eyebolts to an aluminum truck bed. Just ran across this today, not sure I have seen it referenced on...

You do not want to use extra breakers in parallel. Just a single breaker at each end with both wires terminated on the single breaker post. Only double up the wire, not the breakers. You might elect to upsize your current breaker if it is 30A, or just try it and do that later. Edit : Adding...

Just make sure you have good connections at each end. Should work well for you.

I ran #6 from my battery to a 60A breaker then under the truck and across to the front left truck bed wall, splicing to an Attwood connector which has wire pigtails. Then used the stock camper wiring and matching connector, it is a relatively short run. It has been trouble free with the stock...

This. It is always better to over protect if it does not affect the function. Missing is the communication/awareness that a smaller than recommended fuse was installed (but still ample to function and protect) and needs to be changed when you increase power later. Most likely an assumption is...

I had a Grandby with the old roof style and soft insualtion, now have the Hawk with the one piece and solid foam insualtion panels. I feel the one piece is louder, maybe more tinny sounding, but either are plenty noisy. The roof of my aluminum body F150 is impressively noisy in hail and heavy...

For carrying heavy loads the stiffer E range tires reduce sway feel due to sidewall shift around corners. I also prefer E (A/T) tires on my '16 F150 and the 4dr Jeep because they are more resistant to puncture on sharp rocks when driving off road. Thick tread and stiff carcass. The stock Jeep...

Just looked at a Zamp 15A controller user manual. 20A fuse for battery side ont eh10A controller, 30A fuse for hte 15A controller. http://zampsolar.com/newsite/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/User-manual-for-10-or-15A-portable-controller-1.pdf Check your model number and user manual to be sure it is...

I do not know what other fuses you have and what purpose they serve. The single wire going to the battery is the combined output of panels through the charge controller so that needs to be 15A at least. The panels themselves probably use 10A each which should be fine. If you have schematics...

You could throw a tarp over the top at night, would soften the rain drop impact and thus make it much quieter. After a few minutes I get used to it and helps mego to sleep. I have an aluminum roof on my house also.

A 10 amp fuse won't handle a 13mps for long. You would need to up the fuse size to 15 amps. I assume this is when both panels are making power for a combined 13 amps. If something is wrong in the controller/panels, it could be drawing 13 amps to blow the fuse. Cover one or both of the...

With a 1/2 ton it comes down to the right 1/2 ton. These days select models are, or nearly the same capacity as the traditional 3/4 ton, so sweeping statements like a 1/2 ton cannot do the job correctly are no longer true, assuming you find the appropriate payload build. They do vary quite a...

The description of the separator is not too far off but for one major point : ... "As the camper battery reaches full the “separator” through its programming increases the “resistance” (clamping pressure) and reduces the flow of volts (water) to battery. “Separator” monitors the battery...

The size of wire is hard to say. There is an element of diminishing returns. Other factors influence the choice Cost, length of run, available alernator output useful for charging (voltage it wants to run vs. what your batteries want), temperature difference between the alternator and camper...

I would use the 2/0 connection, fused of course. You will need to think about what connector (thus wire size) you will use. My camper uses 10GA wire and I ran 6GA to the truck bed connector and it is charging a pair of 79ah batteries and running my compressor fridge fine. The camper section...

On my 2005 Dodde RAM 2500 long bed with a Grandby after doing some offroad the bed sheet metal deformed (pulled up 1/4"). The corners are one piece and rounded so perhaps a bit more stout than a flat bed with water drain spaces at some of the floor to wall gaps like in my ford truck bed, but I...

Marinco Trolling Motor connector or the currently supplied Attwood 3 wire plug are common (for non tail light models). These are typically 3 wire, can be found in 2 wire. The 3rd wire is for the marker lights. If you have tail lights and turn signals to run, you may be better off with a...

Backing plates highly recommended! Attached is a view of 4 eyebolts in a 2016 F150 aluminum body 6.5ft bed. They are poking through slots in the rubber mat, hard to see them in the shadows.

Camping at Baker Lake (WA) last week.