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On our old camper the latches had loops for a small safety clip of some sort. I bought small steel "carabieners" from a hardware store in Durango and I soon got in the habit of clipping them to the ignition key ring as they came off the camper in order to pop the top. As a bonus, when unlatched...

Can't recall, axles already upgraded? 14bff's & D60's aren't the lightest things, but it's sure nice to know that you probably can't break them until you do something extremely stupid. For a fledgling project we're thinking coil sprung Dodge D60 front, for the LHD t/c that will come with the...

That was me in Phillips Cyn in the Calicos a very long time ago. AND I had dug a drainage cut around the tent! Decreed after that night that one requirement of future vehicles was that I could sleep at least semi-comfortably inside them.

One thought that I've had is to use an electrical J-Box on the outside of the camper down inside the bed. Use a nipple of appropriate length with a conduit nut and a big flat washer to hold it in place, and use a water tight type of strain relief on the other end. I was planning to do this with...

Bils 4600's are a smaller body diameter than the 5100's. I think that the 4600's are too small for a truck, but I'm probably more out at the edge than most.

The one that I linked is from my source for those in the picture, but is not what I actually used. I've not recently seen the red ones offered there. Might be able to find the red ones elsewhere now that you know they exist. A trick that I used to commonly see on NHRA Pro-Stocks was to use a...

I have a TruTrac in the rear of my FSB and I love it. Front is currently open and it seems to be good enough for how the Bronco gets used. When it becomes not enough it will get an ARB. I've had a Lock-rite up front and I've had open fronts. There are times when both are desired, but they are...

On the CTD bed I was able to route both cables up thru the OEM provided tie-down holes at the front bulkhead. I've seen the typical rubber grommets fail in short time periods, so those are never an option for me. If I have to do something like that I use a piece of Trim-Lock or fuel hose slit...

Chucara XL here, H8 fb, won't be seeing me there when here works just fine.

"oh look,dear! Fat Deer! Let's take a picture next to them!"

My friend's house in Big Creek and his mom's house, also in Big Creek, have apparently both survived. We're still waiting to hear if my friend's house in Meadow Lakes was in the block along Auberry Rd. that reportedly survived.

Something to be careful of with that exhaust wrap. It soaks up oil and grease. MISF nearly lost a car due to that oil catching on fire. They sell a paint-like sealant that is supposed to stop this from happening. I'd buy and use it!

You're welcome. At the PWM is probably a better location, protects everything else and not just the lights.

I don't play an EE in real life and I didn't stay at the Holiday Inn last night, but I'm thinking that some of the PWM's switching high frequency is bleeding into the power supply. Maybe try a small capacitor across power & ground at the light controller?

The difference in roof rack systems like those the OP linked is that they are curved on the bottom to match the roof of the intended vehicle. I've no idea if there is a straight bottom version offered by any of those vendors.

The issue with most Utility beds is that they are too deep for a camper. Can add a spacer for the camper to sit on, but that pushes all of the weight that much higher. There are utility beds with low bed rail heights, but they are rare. I've been on and off looking for a used one for years. A...

I'd only use one controller. If it won't handle the combined current then upgrade to one that will. I would also only connect one wire to each battery. If the controller's + chagre wire goes battery A then the controller's - charge wire goes to battery B.

I would look at how that wiring is added to the base truck's wiring loom. If there is an opportunity on the 12VDC+ wire to interrupt it with an IGN switched relay or contactor I would do so at the connector in a way that is easily reversed. Backing up though, the charger needs this as a trigger...

Understand that going the GM 63" route is going to be an iterative solution, you may not get it quite right on the third try.... Donor trucks start in the late 90's (to be safe). I'd try for a 1/2 ton as the donor. A 3/4t will work, but you may find yourself removing the shortest leaves or...

Clearly it should be gray, with a white/black gradient relative to actual location. :)

I generally place the jack as close to the flat tire as I reasonably can and I don't get too wrapped around the axle about where is "correct" because sometimes that isn't possible. When dealing with a-arm front suspension you need to be really careful to watch what the suspension does as you...

Is this going to be a parallel battery to the existing (& if it is, is that a good idea?), or a Bank A, Bank B set-up? If just paralleled to the existing battery(ies) then all of the current drawn in the whole camper or all of the charging current will go thru those cables so they'll need to be...

Bare in mind that you can also be seeing voltage drop in the wiring. Best to check it right at the battery.

I'd avoid add-a-leafs. Ultimately they will either break you or the springs. Fabrication ability/availableness? Top end suspension for the rear would be to transplant some of the 63" long GM truck rear leaf springs. Subtract leaves until you get what you need for load carrying capacity...

We use the PETT "Poo Powder" & bags in our RV toilet. If it didn't mean total deconstruction of the camper I'd remove the black water tank completely. The PETT toilet is decent, but search around, there are better. Advantage of this system is that it is legal to simply dispose of the bags in the...