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One other point to add from another thread: If you do think a lithium house battery could be in your future, you may want to look into the Cyrix Li, as it will work with lithium.

This can be true, but is not strictly true. If you have an alternator with a higher voltage output, and large diameter wires running to your lithium batteries, then they can draw too much current from the alternator and shorten it's life. However, with a smart alternator, or with smaller...

This is kind of a tricky configuration. Yes your ACR will stay connected until the voltage drops to 12.75V, which generally won't happen with the lithium battery. However, the lead acid won't really drain your lithium battery unless there is a load on the lead acid. The resting fully...

The 7622 can carry more current, but that is a moot point unless your wiring is fused to carry the current. The stock wiring from FWC has a 30A circuit breaker, so there is no advantage to the 7622 in this case as the breaker is the weak link. I seriously doubt anyone has their system fused...

The switchbacks above Bridal Vail falls are one way, the rest of the road isn't.

I drove this road a couple of years ago, it is tight, but not terrible and very scenic. However, I wouldn't drive this again. Not because the road itself, but because of the other people. I was crowded years ago, I am sure it is insane now. The two biggest issues were folks in rental...

One other thing, if you are going to splurge for the 7622, you probably want to install the switch, in which case it should be installed under the hood so you can wire the switch to your dash, and size doesn't matter. For 1314A -> 7611 check the spec sheets, but they are about the same size.

Here are the differences: Sure Power 1314A: Single sensing, closed current 750mA, Cranking Amps 400A, Continuous Amps 100A http://www.ase-supply.com/v/vspfiles/downloadables/1314-1315.pdf Blue Sea 7611: Dual sensing, closed current ~100mA (measured), Cranking Amps > 210A, Continuous Amps 120A...

Yes the 7611 it is magnetically switched (all mechanical relays are) but it is not 'latching' like the 7622 and requires a small amount of current (~100 mA) to to keep the relay engaged when the batteries are combined. In some applications this matters, but not so much in this case. The...

The Victron solar controller gives you some useful information, the battery voltage, the current into the battery from solar and the current out of the battery if you are using the load terminals. However it can't give you the critical piece of information which is the state of charge of the...

My memory is clearly failing me! In which case, I would start with setting your charging low temperature limit to something very conservative like 3C and see how things go. If you have troubles keeping the batteries charged, you can lower the limit, but you will likely be fine.

I am not sure three versions and just a few months of real world use is enough to have really worked out the kinks and have confidence in the product. But I guess someone has to go first, I just wouldn't want it to be me, at least not without a major discount.

Also, on this topic, it is pretty disappointing to see Battleborn post this 'study' that is complete biased from the outset to make AGM batteries look bad: https://battlebornbatteries.com/lead-is-dead-white-paper-study/ Read the comments below the article to see how they had a large thumb on...

Which battery do you have? Battle born shuts off charge if the battery goes below 0C anyway, so there is nothing that needs to be done on the users end.

It seems like a bit of a risky undertaking to order a camper from a company that doesn't seem to have actually completed building a camper yet. It seems to me that it takes a lot of iterations, testing and feedback to get things just right and there have been a lot of these camper startups of...

I have a 160W solar panel and a 150Ah battery. I would be very happy if I were to get my charge rate up to 0.1C, particularly in the winter :). That aside, you do have the ability to set the maximum charge current using the Victron MPPT chargers, so you could set a limit there.

I can see how if you kept your camper heated, these could help the external drain from freezing. But I am also not sure this is a problem. We camp regularly in freezing weather, and while our (now metal) drain valve may have frozen, it doesn't seem to have damaged anything. That aside...

Yes you can just drill out the rivets. I replaced the rivets with stainless button head screws/bolts to make the awning removable. I don't think removing the mounting brackets from the camper would be easy, given all the sealant around them and resultant holes.

We ski Randonnée, but that was too long to type.

I don't think that would be an issue, as long as your charge sources will switch on without seeing the battery voltage on their output.

To add, I installed 2 heaters similar to these on an aluminium plate that my battery sits on: https://smile.amazon.com/Polyimide-Heating-Flexible-Adhesive-95x135mm/dp/B082Z3HKDY

Most drop in LiFePO4 batteries and stand alone BMS already have a low temperature charge protection function built into the battery. They won't accept a charge if the temperature is too low, and they won't be damaged. There is no reason to bring them inside.

It was this: https://smile.amazon.com/Taiss-Temperature-Thermostat-Controlled-Controller/dp/B079CBXJVN Take the +ve wire from your solar panels and wire that to the common terminal. Then wire the NO terminal to the +ve solar input of your solar controller and the NC to the heater on the...

Fantastic, as always.

I would take this one step further and say you specifically DON'T want to tie into the truck chassis ground here as it can be a safety hazard. Say the chassis ground wire on your starter battery were to come disconnected, and you went to start the truck. All of a sudden the ground path for...