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Most of us went through this decision process when ordering a camper, it is fun but can also lead to analysis-paralysis. I ended up settling on anything that require cutting through walls of the camper I would have FWC install, and I would do the rest - it seems that finding the frame members...

Genuine Origin is great, with the caveat that you need to order 65lbs. We have a little cartel and order a sack every few months to split 2 or 3 ways. One of the great things about home roasting is that green beans have a very long shelf life relative to pre-roasted beans. I usually have...

I am also a Sweet Maria's fan, but our coffee consumption is so out of hand that we mostly order from Genuine Origin now. $2.70/lb for single origin coffee from Huehuetenango is hard to beat, and it is great coffee too. At home we use a combination of an OXO automated pour over to be ready...

The best place is to install next to the camper battery, connected with short wires. The idea is that the DC-DC charger provides the battery with precise charging voltages, irrespective of what the alternator puts out. You want to install it close to the battery so there is little to no...

The right style of awning depends a lot on how you camp. If you are more a traveller or hiker that moves every day, then being quick to deploy and retract is most important, and the Fiamma is definitely miles ahead in that regard. If you are more of a base camper who goes to one spot and...

That is too bad - the battery is essentially brand new, right? It is good that they are supporting their product, but it would be better if were dependable enough you didn't need support.

Yup, I don't think there is any harm in leaving it on for several hours to get it well away from the shutdown point, then you can switch to your smarter charger with a more lithium specific profile.

Ok, the problem is with the charger then - because the battery is not providing any voltage, the charger can't see it and won't start charging. You either need to put the battery on a 'dumber' charger for a while (if you have an old lead acid charger that would work), or you need to put...

Is that measurement when the charger is on the battery, or with the charger removed? For some chargers, if they can't detect the battery is there, they won't start charging. Maybe someone with Battleborn battery can chime in on any procedure to get it out of shutdown?

The battery is probably fine, the BMS likely shut it down and it just needs to be charged. If you have an AC charger, charge the battery up with that. If not, connect the Victron solar controller (and only the solar controller) to the battery and see what it can do. It really sounds like...

Your dead sure you are not connected to the load terminals on the MPPT 100/20? The only other explanation I can come up with is that your battery is not providing any power and everything is just running off the solar panels. What does your multimeter say at the battery terminals with nothing...

Your new diagram looks fine with respect to the ACR. I am trying to figure out how the solar charge controller is effecting the power to the fridge and fan if the power to the fridge and fan are coming directly from the battery (via the fuse panel)? What if you disable the charge controller...

Are you still connected through the load terminals on the Victron? I am not sure how else it could be switching off the power to your fan and fridge.

The Sure Power 1314 will work as is, albeit you won't get a whole lot of charge from the truck alternator while driving with the stock 10AWG wiring. If you think you will need significant charging from the truck (in Sunny So. Ca. you may be fine with just solar and the little bit you get from...

No, the diagram is not correct - the camper battery should be on one terminal of the ACR and the truck battery should be on the other. The Iota fuse panel should be connected to the camper battery. Do you have the FWC pull out switch in your camper? If so you should add that to your diagram...

Much better digram. To be clear - the diagram is not the way it is wired now, but how you think it should be wired? I am also a little confused about the photo - I thought you were using a Victron MPPT solar controller? Anyway, there are a couple of issues with the diagram - read up a little...

Which battery separator do you have at the moment? You probably don't need to change it. If you do, the Li-BIM is not what you want. A blue sea ACR will work fine, (and is much cheaper) and for about the same price as the Li-BIM you are most of the way to a DC-DC charger which will be much...

Get a single ~100Ah 12v battery now, which should be good for what you are describing (fridge and furnace), and if you need another, buy another later and put it in parallel.

I think it may be worth redrawing your diagram more carefully and fully. I don't see where your loads (fridge, lights, water pump etc) are connected in that diagram? Where is the fuse block you show in the picture? Yes, you should just go from the ACR to the battery. For now I would...

Which ever way is easiest to level is likely #1 for me. #2 is a nice landing for the entry ladder on the passenger side (which is also where the awning and outside kitchen are). #3 is a nice view from the passenger side and finally back of the truck into the wind to minimize the noise at the...

I have my system wired through the load terminals as a secondary Low Voltage Disconnect to trip before my lithium BMS trips and to get the net solar charge current. Very occasionally, when Libra is in ascension, and the fridge happens to cycle right as the water heater lights and all the...

It looks like everything is wired through the load terminals on your MPPT charge controller? If that is the case, I am guessing one of your loads (inverter for sure, fridge possibly) has enough in rush (or startup) current to kick the over current protection on the load terminals of the...

If you are thinking of installing new tie downs in your truck bed and therefore aren't afraid of drilling some new holes, have you considered directly bolting the camper to the bed and getting rid of the turnbuckles all together? That is how our camper is secured to the flatbed, and we have...

I have had pretty spotty luck with hardware on Amazon. For non-structural stuff it is likely fine, but some of the stuff I have ordered that was supposedly 316 SS ended up rusting. From the reviews, those look like they are not well passivated and will corrode quickly. McMaster has a huge...

Stranded is definitely the way to go. The issue with solid is not so much the wire, but the connections. The stranded wire is also far easier to install and secure. There is stranded 12/3 wire available for the marine applications, for example...