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Buckland, From your post I gather you are not a boondock camper? If you want to get away from the crowd there are a couple of "free camping" sites online that pinpoint locations across the US where you can set up camp off the grid...I have used them and found the camp sites to be convenient...

The 6 gallon hot water tank in a FWC [at least my vintage,2016 Hawk] when drained back into the main water holding tank always left water in the hot water tank...I have read, a little under 1 gallon remains in the tank....it was never 'advertised' that doing it this way would remove all the...

Sage...like I said I could be wrong...notwithstanding what I remember as the manufacturer's [and FWC?] recommendation to not remove that plug..to me I do not see the need to remove the plug...it seems only to introduce a potential issue without any probative value...little water left in tank...

Folks you are doing a "Phil"...I tend to over think things and worry many into place! :rolleyes: The small amount of water in a FWC installed hot water heater after draining, no blowing out, has never to my knowledge damaged a heater tank ...so why all the concern? I have been in -10F without...

If possible paint over and consider it an honorable 'dueling scar'....I have a similar scrap on my awning metal cover thanks to getting too close to a rock overhang on White Rim Trail...always makes me smile when I see it...great memory of a great trip.

Tough story indeed...hate to hear of a hole in a FWC roof...problem you have now is the roof is a single piece of aluminum..so short of patching the hole it would be a massive and expensive undertaking to replace that single sheet roof..not certain if it could be done; assuming if replacement of...

FYI...when traveling in really cold weather and freezing 'anything' [not on your person... :rolleyes: ] is a potential problem...carry de-icing spray...also works on frozen to windshield wipers....heck, starting fluid spray would also work...

Experiential knowledge is always best...flat lid = problem ; curved lid = no problem; issue solved...again I believe Dirt Road Savant's Hawk is on a frame mount....

If it is just a matter of disrupting the air flow across the top of the vent what about gluing a stiff or flexible piece of rubber to the leading edge of the vent top to kill the speed of the air across the vent top and therefore any negative pressure/left on the lid. If air stream created...

I have a Yakima wind deflector just above my windshield, more to keep rain and debris out from under the Hawk over hang on my '05 Tundra AC and off the small tray of emergency gear I constructed on the Tundra roof using Yakima towers...anyway...the issue of aerodynamics notwithstanding...seeing...

I could be wrong but yours is not a FWC and the front vent on your camper is very close to leading edge...I don't believe that any model of FWC has the vent that far toward the front of the top....also in mix is what else if anything you have on the roof...my two solar panels undoubtedly disrupt...

Ok...it may or may not be a design issue; still not clear the exact nature of why and when the lids open on their own...like you said, no problems here with my FF...tis' a mystery...

Can someone post photos that show exactly what is loosening/rotating/extending through vibration and causing the fan lid to open? Can't visualize it and have never had this problem....does this occur on frame ['flatbed'] and truck bed mounted FWCs? To open our FF you rotate the black knob...

Great photo...I remember the chilling pictures of him "monitoring" the eruption from there and then being enveloped; I believe that was Mr. Johnston...sad indeed...

One better than an Isolator...get an Orion DC/DC... B) Isolator goes away...my replacement Blue Sea is sitting on a work bench..

Jon, I have seen, but can't find, a chart that lists voltage drop by distance vs wire gauge...do you have site for this? Thanks, Phil

Spending the night, or most often longer, at below zero was what I was trying to protect against...however 6 hours of skiing can drop temps below freezing around plumbing..like I said, driving with a propane furnace on is not on the table for me; for you it is fine..as for shower...well, a weak...

My Orion DC/DC was wired with 4awg...Tundra/Hawk [side dinette] battery box right front corner of Hawk floor tub...not sure if that was what you were asking about but you mentioned DC/DC.

That approach has been in use, but not with fans...simply opening cabinet doors and if deemed needed to remove drawers to allow furnace warmed air into areas of plumbing; I have used insulating foam board along the Tundra bed rails to "seal" to a degree the bed surrounding the Hawk, so in a...

Can those who have identified the point source [s] of the leak [s] possibly posts photos of those locations? Thanks.. 12" of rain! [As I remember near Grass Valley...]

No Bluetooth connection to my BB battery...all of the 4 Victron devices are Bluetooth linked via Victron Connect....honestly, with my limited knowledge base, I would never think of trying to tinker with the BB BMS even if I could..."DarkWeb"!

My knowledge is limited to my Battelborn 100Ah and the BMS built into the battery can NOT be changed or program by me. But hey, I could be wrong... B)

Not certain for your battery...but from what I have seen those voltages will work with Li batteries...I know they would with my Battleborn... Absorption @14.2-14.6V, I use 14.4V....Float @ 13.6V on mine...on all three chargers in my system.

Does a BMS control how much charge or just cut it off at high and possibly low voltages/temps?

If fit inside garage is really close let the air out of the tires....expensive option is to buy a small set wheels and tires to reduce diameter/radius for use when storing...I use to switch tires/wheels to studded set, but no longer do that...