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Jon may be on to something....but the pressurizing [blowingout] of my older '16 Hawk will not push water out of the shower fixture only the other tubing/plumbing....from what Jon sez, I am assuming that this oversight was corrected in his '21 Grandby...good.

David, I understand what you posted, and, I could be wrong, but "even though it is an important part of our lives." referring to insurance made me reflect....I am old enough to remember when insurance was not considered a necessity but a luxury and most folks with finite incomes [then more than...

Might add that I believe the shower fixture just inside the FWC wall will retain water even when system is "drained" and can freeze/rupture in winter...

Wildcat....clear explanation and thanks...yes, I will delve into this tomorrow and report back...hopefully with concise information from both my current insurance company, Farmers, and the company I am considering changing to, USAA. A question however. You said this about an agent "They are...

Thanks for the stories folks...for what it is worth...Farmers also insures our Hawk as an addition/part of the Tundra truck it is mount in...what the value of the truck and or Hawk is if destroyed today, I have no idea...like most insurance, I assume it is current value of item lost, not new...

Roger that....I will try to get an answer to that from USAA....

Has anyone filed a claim with USAA and if so, how well was it handled? With no field agents or offices, I want to know how they are when you need them on a claim. Thanks...

Thanks...has anyone filed a claim and if you did how well was it handled....on vehicle or camper. My evaluation of switching from Farmers for all my insurance including my Tundra/Hawk is not just cost of policy, but as each of you have stated, what is the exact coverage, conditions of coverage...

Rando...thanks for the clear description of on/off triggers and I do love it when you talk dirty...."hysteresis"... B) Phil

Hope this is OK to ask on here....but has anybody insured their FWC through USAA? Is yes, how do you rate the coverage, cost and service? Thanks...Phil

Whoa, that's cool. I got my Orion when these were very new. Out of the box, the charge detection settings didn't work at all. Luckily, a software rev came out a day after I installed mine, and voila, it worked! So, I am super stoked that they keep improving these things. What you describe...

YUP, KP and crew also installed all my BB 100Ah [heated] conversion and three Victron devices plus an 80 amp breaker....they know their stuff and did excellent work...

Never thought of the Victron Tr Orion needing a specific input voltage...but like you say my DC/DC 30 amp charger will be good to go w/4awg and my Tundra 130amp alternator can easily handle the load...mostly all this is adjustable with Bluetooth anyway to keep everything up and running by...

This is yet another year to make consulting this website a part of trip planning - Fire & Smoke Map Ski...greatly appreciate this site...my fellow riders out here in the West are faced with about 50% of normal rain fall [NE Oregon] with the rainy period already past and record annual high...

Tom, Wires are 4awg and new connection plug is an Anderson mounted to bed wall....no isolator hence Blue Sea 7611 was removed...as stated above the Victron Tr Orion DC/DC is a 30amp model...with Bluetooth to my phone...agree that when lacking solar or 110v power the DC/DC will quickly reinstate...

Just had an 80 amp breaker like the one in your photo mounted on firewall driver's side about 2 feet from Tundra battery as part of the new BB battery [in Hawk] and Victron Orion Tr DC/DC install....second breaker in the DC/D-BB Battery circuit is 2 feet from charger/battery on the shelf where...

Thanks Vic...I posed that very question concerning % of charge in a previous post but never really got a definitive answer. While BB says 0-100% is fine others staunchly say that you should cycle LiFeP04 batteries between 20-80% for longer battery life.. BUT I have yet to see the numbers...

Thanks....I followed you until the "run the fridge"....why? To not leave the BB at or near 100%? If that is the reason, why can't or shouldn't the BB be stored at close to 100%? Again, I appreciate this information.

Jon, Good suggestions...I still can't wrap my mind around the differing advice concerning the BB battery optimal SOC range; some say keep the battery between 20-90% SOC for maximum service life [Li batteries] and BB says you can go 0-100% SOC without detrimentally affecting the service...

Jon, Agreed, but again I avoided all this by simply opening the DC/DC 80amp breaker [on firewall of Tundra] and the DC/DC was then unpowered and the Battery Tender [only used when Tundra/Hawk parked inside my shop] no longer could push current to the DV/DC charger. When I take the combo out...

Interesting..."small wire"...my Orion Tr DC/DC was installed with 4awg and an 80 amp marine breaker...my Battery Tender has three charging modes and cycles through to optimize the level of SOC; again I only use this on AGMs since I can not control the voltage or amps in the BT...neat thing about...

Great tutorial... First saw "12 Steps" and thought, oh no! An on-line FWC AA meeting!

Crow, Indeed both your AGM batteries [Tundra and camper] would seem to benefit from a smart charger maintaining them....my 100ah Battleborn Li battery in the Hawk once near 100% is best left alone and with no loads when stored in my shop...while I do wish to float and maintain the Tundra AGM...

Jon R. Thanks, that was my assumption also...my solution, although not elegant, is to simply open the breaker on the DC/DC to isolate the BB battery from the Battery Tender attached to my Tundra AGM battery while in my shop...AGM benefits from the Tender, the BB does not. Thanks again for your...

Question: Can the current and then voltage from a Battery Tender connected to my Tundra starter battery [AGM] trigger an "output" from my Victron DC/DC charger into the BB battery in the Hawk with the Tundra motor is off. Still trying to understand the function and timing of the DC/DC...