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This study seems to show it doesn't help: https://www.dovepress.com/effects-of-the-canine-rattlesnake-vaccine-in-moderate-to-severe-cases--peer-reviewed-fulltext-article-VMRR

I live in Ruidoso. Plenty of open beautiful land, that's for sure! Perfect for "hiking/wandering/meandering". Camp wherever you like on BLM or NF land. You'd probably want to avoid the forests that have been recently burnt though. There were big fires in the middle of the Gila and up west of Las...

Old thread but in case anyone cares, I might be able to help with these questions: I read somewhere that Tundras had some special type of wheel bearing that inhibit this vehicles ability to carry more weight, and also Toyota does not give their blessing at all to pulling off the stock bed...

In that case I'd very strongly suggest street tread, Look at Michelin Defenders and Nitto Duragrapplers.

The regear will not improve your power output at all, and so it won't increase your speed going up climbs or into headwinds. It will help a little in acceleration but that's it. As others have mentioned, you can set a max gear to use. If the transmission is hunting, just set this to 5th or 4th...

If you like to get into remote locations, bigger tires are the best way to get more ground clearance. More traction is nice also... and heavy duty tires are a must, regardless of size. Unsprung weight effects suspension performance, but takes no more energy to move down the road than any other...

True. Fuel consumption to overcome wind resistance should be roughly proportional to V^2 as well. These things are aero bricks and adding a camper doesn't help... Just as an example, say at 65 mph, flat and no wind, 70% of your resistance is aero and 30% rolling, and you are getting 15.0 mpg...

ckent323: 4 cells at 3.65 V = 14.6 V I think this is what your float voltage should be. I think I did 3.6v max while charging and they settled to ~3.3v fully charged. That's 13.2v for 4 in series.

Sorry I can't help you. I haven't even put my batteries together yet, or played with them in some time.

You don't need a tender for LiFePo4, and I wouldn't charge it without monitoring the voltage.

Thanks for your feedback on those panels. They have a 200W model for $240 also. I was think of wiring it 24v (better for long extensions) and using MPPT. Also, I just ran across this site: https://batteryblocs.com/batteryblocs/ It might be of interest to someone using individual cells. I think...

Solar is easy these days. You could get a folding panel that doesn't take up much space. They are handy too because you can park in the shade and set them out in the sun.

Great, let us know how it comes out.

They are listed as 100Ah capacity and 3.2V, so 4 in series would give you 12.8V and 100Ah. I know nothing about them other than what is listed. No idea if they will perform to spec. Or what they charge for shipping, although shipping from China tends to be pretty reasonable.

Those are listed as EV cells and cost $0.312/Wh. These are only $0.125/Wh and would be easier to deal with:https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/-2000-Cycle-Life-Lithium-Battery_60858707229.html?spm=a2700.7724857.normalList.121.5fc45e9fcebNbO

I agree that the axle rating is a good thing to look at... but your theory that poor braking and fish-tailing will be the result if its exceeded, doesn't follow from physics or common sense. Those are primarily controlled by the brakes, suspension, and tires. And most of your braking force comes...

I'm using the Imax B6, same as before. Set at .5a charge and discharge. It tapers the charge current til it hits 3.6v, but the discharge runs at .5a until voltage hits 2v. When it stops discharging the voltage bounces back to ~2.8v after a couple hours.

Rando, have you done or are you interested in doing another capacity test? It would be interesting to see if there has been any change. I'm still "playing" with my individual cells; haven't built any packs yet. I've noticed that all the cells will all settle at 3.33v after a full charge, and...

I agree. The few samples I tried were very forgiving. Sand and clean (alcohol) the cells and wire. Let dry and do what photohc recommended: "Make sure the area of solder is clean. Apply a small amount of flux prior to solder. I used a Qtip. Apply solder to cell without the wire first. Then...

I'd probably make sure you don't exceed axle ratings.

The lowest priced big batteries I've seen are the GBS, which are ~$650 for 12.8v and 100ah. That's 0.507$/W-hr. When these Full River cells were available they were $90+$17 shipping (I think), for 60 5.5ah 3.2v cells. If they performed at spec that would be $0.101$/W-hr. If I only get 4.5ah...

Doug got back to me right away and he is sending me 16 new cells without me even asking. He didn't know why voltage would be dropping either.

It's not dropping while the meter is on it. It's dropping over the course of many days. Of the cells I've tested so far, most of them have very little charge, even if their voltage is high. And the ones <2.8v I'd expect to have near zero charge. So maybe the change in voltage on a drained cell...

I'm not sure it's even a problem. Just odd that cells that have been in storage for 4+ years would be showing any rapid changes at this point. I've cycled a few of the low voltage cells and they seem to perform almost as well as the high voltage ones.

Looks great! Did you happen to check your cells for voltage or cycle them? I just discovered that the cells I got that had low voltage are rapidly degrading in voltage. There were 10 in the 2.0-2.8v range and now they've all dropped by about .5v. Only 1 is still above 2v. The ones in the...