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Not mine, but it is a truck with what appears to be an 8 ft. CO Alaskan on it plus a Prowler trailer. Hey, for a whopping $1,600.00 so that would be a steal. Might even be Reico-titan jacks but they look a tad rusty. https://seattle.craigslist.org/oly/rvs/d/truck-camper-and-trailer/6609877307.html

You mean the "Check Your Wallet Light"?

If you don't anticipate using the shelves slide out feature except for a maintenance clean out at the beginning of the season, I wonder if it is possible to a little strategically placed Velcro tabs on the shelf and the interior of the Norcold? Maybe just a small 1/2" x 1/2" tab on each side of...

Do your homework here and ask questions...if you have 5-6 grand for an 8 ft. CO you can afford either a 100% rebuilt 70's era (yacht looking interior) or one that is a few years old. You will want to avoid those with particle board interiors that swell up and fall apart when they are exposed to...

John...just a heads up...the "older" Alaskans needed raising up in the bed to clear the side rails of the truck bed and the "newer" trucks seem to have a narrower tailgate on them so if your camper is wider at the rear than between the wheelwells, you would have to modify the camper to get it in...

John....the Alaskan isn't an off-the-shelf item per se, it can be ordered in many configurations. While you may be a year away from ordering one, it will still take time to build it. They will ask you how you want this or that, what layout you prefer, if you want power to the roof vents for a...

Up in Snohomish/Clearview WA and on CL and it "needs work" but for $200.00 worth checking out if you are in the PNW. https://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/rvs/d/alaskan-camper-10ft/6605507415.html

Saw this 10' NCO on Craigslist today....up in Clearview/Snohomish WA area. Asking price is $200.00 and yes, that was two hundred bucks! https://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/rvs/d/alaskan-camper-10ft/6605507415.html

Did you see that Alaskan yet? Got any pics? Did you buy it? I didn't see it on Craigslist.

I'm on my second Alaskan, neither seem to have the signs of staining on the wood which usually indicates water intrusion which may mean serious wood rot...there are multiple threads here about guys nearly gutting the top section to replace rotted wood but some of us are more adept at woodworking...

Josh...It looks to me like you caught the tearing EARLY and as such could easily use the gusset plates in the bed and under it to SPREAD out the forces trying rip the eyebolt through the floor. I like the second bolt as well as it effectively locks the gusset plates to the floor. If srileo can...

John... The upper doorway is 26" (the door swings completely back against rear panel) The lower doorway is 22" (but because the lower door does not swing completely out of the way the opening is effectively 20 1/2") If access is an issue, check the ATC and FWC owners for the doorway sizes...

Hmm...did FWC say why they choose to use standard turnbuckles as opposed to Happijacs? I understand they prefer to mount the camper to the floor of the truck bed rather than mount them on the exterior as my Alaskan is, but I wonder why the front turnbuckle in your pic could not be replaced by a...

My 1976 8 ft CO has the sliding windows on it...just ONE slides on each side rather than the rigs that have two sliders with a solid pane in the middle. Anyway, some one removed the locks so I need two of them plus the plastic sleeve and the screws. I tried to buy some for RVs but they were WAY...

An autographed picture of Duncan Renaldo.... you old guys remember him without googling? My Eagle Scout card. A charm bracelet I gave Mom with all the ranks hanging on it (Second Class up to Eagle). My Army WWII canteen/cover & belt (too small for my 235 lbs now)

If your truck bed is secured to the frame with no rubber isolators and has no means to flex whatsoever and Is basically a uni-body type assembly, then the brackets that attach the truck bed to the frame are a wonderful idea. However if there is movement of the truck bed as the frame is flexing...

David....before heading out to the boonies again, I would suggest a visual inspection of any hole in the firewall to see if Mouse chewed through that way. Another look at everything under the hood for chewed wire insulation and lastly, since Mouse was in the glove box I would first look behind...

Wow...I'm with the guys here.... 1) remove camper from truck 2) remove any paint/undersealing from within 6-8 inches of any of the cranks (you have several!) 3) go to a COMPETANT welding shop and after they assess the damage, if they can weld it SAFELY then do so 4) ask them to fabricate two...

Maybe just one more thing to add to the Spring Maintenance List..... # 14 - Open all drawers and doors and put your cat in the camper to see if there is any interest in hunting down some adversary. While you are at it, look behind/under the drawers and check behind your gear in the cupboards...

On any camper if the eyebolt and the anchor point are too far away from one another there is too much lateral strain being put on the eyebolt. I see you have a flat washer and nut beneath the camper and you stated you had a plate of some dimension mounted inside the camper where I assume you...

The bumper mounted frame will need some kind of upper arm to help with vibrations so I would check where the tailgate would normally close to get a fore/aft surface to bolt it to. Then a strap that bolts to the rear corner of your carrier would be possible. As noted, steel will be too heavy so...

Jeff.... I think Russ may be onto a different approach, but I can't see enough of your camper-to-truck bed to tell if this would work: With even 32 lbs on it, you run the risk of cracks from the constant vibrations going down many roads and off-roading. I see your camper extends past the truck...

Well....seeing as how the "Cult of Alaskans" is a fiercely loyal group of campers, I for one would enjoy seeing the videos of other owners regarding their rebuilds, their adaptations or add-ons, some how-to clips and some on how they were secured to the truck and how the use of the tailgate...

To answer your question based on the photos you posted.....2WD is fine on the roads in the photo as far as I can see, the speed you use is determined by YOU when you start out and if you feel some resistance or "floating" then you might find the "sweet spot" in terms of MPH and you are good to go.

Your post does not mention where you are but I see them listed in Craigslist in the San Francisco AREA and in the Seattle or Portland or Los Angeles areas all the time. If you check them frequently you will learn all about them and the prices and when the right one pops up you can pounce on it...