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Maybe this photo will help? Use the tail lights pin/plug

Here's an option...an old-school one, and it may not be what you want to do, but it's worked for 45 years. I have a 1958 NCO (No. 357). I'm thinking that the seals were the original ones as they were still attached, but I can't say for sure. The seals looked like they were made from some kind...

I bought the round-4-pin connector for $11 on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/CURT-58671-Vehicle-Side-Trailer-Side-Connectors/dp/B001EOV3MU

"I once bought a new refrigerator, the next thing i new I was rebuilding the whole kitchen." hahaha Yep! I feel you. I bet that new refrigerator was just a tad too big, huh? Anyway, what year/model do you have? As I stated, mine is a 1958 NCO. Simple wiring, but the only reason I know that...

Trust me, unless you're ready to do an (almost) full rehab on the top half...leave them walls alone! One thing always leads to another & you'll end up like me...rebuilding the entire driver's side & bulkhead...just because I was trying to follow how far the leak had spread from the corner...

Which light did you pull first? Was it the one on the front driver's side by the DC input plug? On my '58 NCO, that front light did have two 18 gauge brown wires connected to it. One wire runs across to the front passenger light, and then a spliced run to rear passenger side light. The 2nd wire...

I have a 1958 NCO (No. 357). On mine, there were seals all the way around, top & bottom. I'm thinking that the seals were the original ones as they were still attached, but I can't say for sure. The seals looked like they were made from some kind of rubberized material on the inside with a cloth...

I believe you meant "bed walls" or the truck's roof re: "Truck Cap". I have a 1958 8' NCO on a 1997 F350, and used 2" X 1" boards. The 1" high boards clear the bed walls by about 3/4" so the bed wall's upper rim doesn't get scratched when driving. If you have a CO version, it may be the same...