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My truck. I'm preparing it for a Hallmark K2 camper.

Thanks for the input. I'm going to look into rebuilding the hinges with new bushings and then shimming the hinges as installed to get the upper door level again. I'll probably call Alaskan and see if they can provide info on the hinges. Otherwise the bushings in the hinge are parts that I can...

I like it! Thanks

Maybe related somehow but its not clear to me how. My impression is that this is a different issue. I don't seem to have any upper door spread. I've assumed it was from the material in the hinge wearing over time. I think I read a thread somewhere of someone rebuilding their hinges with new...

I'll probably end up shimming the lower part of the hinge, or tightening the upper end. I'm at work, but I'll look to see if the hinge is screwed, riveted, or integral with the door frame.

I've been trying to find a thread about rebuilding the upper rear door hinge. The door on my 2017 NCO is sagging to the point where I can't get the dead bold to close. The door is visibly sagging to the left when facing the rear of the camper. Can anyone point me to a DIY rebuild thread?

I drove my brother to Split Mountain on Sunday and kept seeing FWC on pickups heading towards Julian. After ten campers or so, we figured out there was an event. We would have loved to check out a Grandby Flatbed!

Yes the PlatCat is thermostat controlled. It also vents the combustion by-products outside with a small motor powered vent.

I'd probably try one of the epoxy aluminum repair products. The jack load would still be carried by the screw, mounts, and tubing. The aluminized repair epoxy would just take up some of the play and keep the screws from backing out. I'd look for one with a non-sagging consistency so I could...

The NCO models don't have the locking pin. The Parker flow control valves can give you some control. https://ph.parker.com/us/en/in-line-flow-control-valve-f-series/f400s Alaskan installs them with one valve for the front pair and one for the rear. I still find out the overhead cabinets...

On our 2016 8' NCO, we ordered double pane windows for the left and right side. They don't really insulate that well since the frame connects the cold to the inside. They do seem to work well for suppressing outside noise. The double pane acrylic seem like the best for the cold, but the shade...

My switch has screw terminals that could come loose. I have star washers for vibration and wrapped with electrical tape to prevent shorting the terminals from bumping against something inside the cabinet. The switch seems durable, but you never know. You could try a direct connection to see...

Check the battery voltage. Then the voltage at the pump when trying to run the pump if you can. It's possible the motor burned up, but seems unlikely if the sound was normal during the last time raised. If voltage is low at the pump you can inspect the wire to see if there is a butt splice or...

What years had particle board?

I don't remember for sure, the 12V aux may source 3-6 amps, which is around half of a single 12V solar panel. Direct alternator charging would get the job done way quicker!

Yep, we had Alaskan install a PlatCat in our camper in place of the Suburban furnace. The power draw is very low (~1.5A) and it heats well, it just sips propane. The only issue we had with it is the solenoid that clicks when the heater is turned on. That clack woke us up every time! If you...

I guess you're right. I don't remember the IOTA model Alaskan specs, but I don't see the ability for DC charging on them. His solar controller my have an input for a second solar string, but would work best with a DC to DC converter as you said.

Most of these chargers support a charge from the vehicle too. The Progressive Dynamics models do for sure. Not sure about the IOTA, I removed mine from the Alaskan right away and relocated the fuse panel on the lower part of the camper along with the solar charge controller.

The lower walls are 3/4" marine plywood. It is very easy to drill a couple of holes with a hole saw. I'd probably punch through the rear wall. Put covers on the vents and insect screens.

The first thing to do is to connect the aux 12V from the 7-pin connector to the IOTA charger. You will need to find it on your truck's 7-pin receptacle and then trace it into your camper. The cable from your truck to your camper may or may not have the required wires. If it is a custom cable...

I had a 2016 with the propane locker on the rear of the camper. My propone locker was leaking water that pooled in the lower left hand corner of the camper. Rather than fix the leak, I installed an ASME tank from Manchester under the truck bed /w a remote fill. I removed the propane locker...

I have shims on the bed rails to help with spreading. Be careful though, because if you shim the leverage between the shim and tie down can lift up on the plywood and start to pull the crown staples up from the vertical to horizontal plywood connection on the inside of the bed. I’ve reinforced...

I have a bunch of left over vacuum bag consumables, so its free. :-) I also have plenty of fiberglass and carbon cloth. Balsa core is pretty inexpensive compared to other core options. I’ve been modifying my Alaskan (interior) lately and carbon over balsa is my version of plywood. Finally...

The easiest way would be to buy pre built panels and glue it together, like a Total Composites kit. There are several ways to build from scratch ranging from building your own panels to constructing a mold like a production boat. The mold making would be an insane amount of work. When I’ve...

Laminating directly to XPS or EPS directly is asking for delimitation. Normal construction with an EPS core is to bond a thin layer of high density foam, like Divinycell, to the EPS before the outside layers of fiberglass are laminated. This adds toughness to the composite panel. Also, most...