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I ordered a key from a different site, lostakey.net, it was more expensive, but it worked! The description of the manufacturers of the lock based on this site are: RAWSON KOENIG RKI and HARCOR

Thank Rusty. I fixed it last night though! I cut new gasket out of exhaust gasket material like you suggested. I had concerns that it wouldn't work because the old gaskets were so much softer. I lapped the underside of the burner that mates to the gasket with 320grit on an a granite block...

I'm my friend's camper, the table is in fact used to support the bed and it looks very much factory. In his camper, there is no other provision to store the table. So you either have it as a table, with seating, or you have a bed. I also know of an Alaskan where the table is stored vertically...

Thanks for trying guys, really need the model number for our stoves. I found several stove parts suppliers, but Magic Chef has made hundreds of different models it seems and there are tons of parts to sort through. The gasket is a special metal foil / asbestos? / foil sandwich. I think gasket...

Does anyone know the model number of the standard magic chef stove that would've come in a '63 Alaskan? I can't read it off the tag. Or does anyone know where to get parts? I need the gaskets that go between the burner and the fuel/air mixing tube. A couple of my stove burners are not...

GAH... my replacement keys arrived. They fit in the lock, but they do not turn it. I guess I'll try another supplier.

Nice! I'm still waiting for my key to arrive. It was cheap too. Was your code LL### too?

Ah, I see. It's T-nuts sandwiched between two layers of plywood. Could probably drill a 1/8" hole in the t nut flange and pin it to keep it from rotating. I found a couple web sites that make keys based on the code on the barrel. It looks like the lock is either a Chicago Lock or a Hudson...

Ok, thanks guys. Rusty, I can't get the handle off is the problem. The nut for the lower screw has broken off whatever is was captive to. I can't see a way of getting the bottom screw out without completely disassembling the door.

Anyone know if a replacement key can be cut based off the code on the lock barrel? My '65 NCO didn't come with the key. :wacko: The code on my barrel starts with LL followed by three digits.

Can someone post a pic of what freshly installed webbing is supposed to look like? Mine has all but completely rotted away.