1999 Hawk Reno.

[JediahPorter]

I'm the proud owner of a 1999 Hawk. For a while I watched national listings through the links on the "used truck camper listings" thread. I found this particular camper through a local web listing. I think I got a good deal, and have confidence in that thanks to the diligent sharing of links on the used listings compiled elsewhere on this forum. Thanks all!

I'll gladly post here as I renovate. Also, I'll ask some questions as I go.

I've had the camper since June of '18. I've probably spent 40 nights in it already, largely "as is".

At time of purchase:

• one roof lift panel was completely gone
• stove works
• fridge seems to not work
• Gritty and dirty inside
• No bed mattress.
• Leaks in vinyl
• Sink drains, but electric pump doesn't work
• Water tank doesn't hold water. Leaks at the drain.
• Never included heat of any sort

Budget, time, and "handiness" limit my renovation progress. Also, I'm accustomed to "roughing it", so I've been stoked with what this camper has to offer and haven't felt great pressure to race on a renovation. Nonetheless, I'm plugging away at it.

Things I've done so far:

• Assembled a mattress. I think I did well at this. Foam is expensive! And getting good cushion and insulation is tricky. Also, I wanted the mattress to fit in the smallest iteration of the cabover (roof down, bed "slide-out" collapsed) yet still fold out to the queen size. I had 5 vertical inches to fit the doubled mattress in. That meant I could make a mattress that is just less than 2.5 inches thick in queen and ~4.5 inches as a single bed. Attached photo shows the foams I used. I taped the closed cell sheets together along their long edges, doing so such that they hinge flat together. The memory foam covers the harder foam. I shoved it all in a queen size comforter duvet cover. The duvet is larger than necessary, but it was cheap and easy. Sewing a cover wouldn't be too complicated. The resulting bed works in either queen or single orientation. My lady digs the spartan cushion of the queen configuration. I think I'd prefer to use a latex foam topper instead of the memory foam. Next time...
• Replaced the front roof lift panel. Marty at ATC made one up. The entire transaction went real smoothly. Half the price I was quoted from FWC Cali. (my local FWC dealer -Jackson, WY- sent me straight to the Cali team). Manufactured and shipped in a couple weeks. I installed using existing holes and included hardware. Kind of a bear to install, but not impossible for my 10 thumbs. Maybe 2.5 hours installing, solo.
• Coated visible vinyl holes. There's still a leak somewhere, but not too bad. I coated the holes with the "HH66" vinyl sealant I saw recommended elsewhere here.
• And, of course, general clean up. I tore out some peeling flooring, washed the couch upholstery, reinforced the bed/couch/storage foot locker.

As winter locks down on Wydaho, my next priorities are winterizing. Help me out:

• Insulating the vinyl is an obvious step. I've seen some of the home-made solutions, and I've asked ATC about making me an "Arctic Pack". I was curious to learn that installing an ATC Arctic Pack would require temporarily detaching the existing vinyl from the roof, in order to install the velcro. I'm inclined to do something much simpler. Something with that reflectix stuff?
• I want baller propane heat. I'm not afraid of the cost of the Propex heaters. But I dunno where to install. The obvious place is beneath the fridge in the externally-accessed storage spot there. Seems best to maybe just ask advice from the Propex importer? For venting and air supply etc. Or consider something else entirely? Again, ATC surprised me when they said that a furnace install would require reframing the camper. That seems excessive? What am I missing?
• With a proper propane furnace, I'll need an upgraded electrical system... (the current lights run on the truck battery. Like, the truck's only battery. I don't use 'em much, as a result) Which is a whole ball of wax, I know... If I'm upgrading electrical, seems appropriate to consider future needs. Like maybe even a 12v fridge/cooler. There are piles and piles of web resources for "vanlife" electrical systems. Too much information, really.
• First, is there any reason that someone's Sprinter van electrical system won't work in my Hawk? Next, can anyone point me to a clear and reliable source of super-basic information on planning and purchasing for an upgraded electrical/battery system?
• I'm thinking of about 125 amp-hours of 12v AGM/Gel batteries, charged mainly from the truck inverter (with the option to add solar later). Seems like that'll run, for a few days, the lights, the water pump (or a replaced water pump), the heater (super basic/dumb question: do Propex heaters blow heat, or just radiate/convect it? Some of their draw seems like it must be from a fan?), and maybe charge a cell phone a little bit. Double up the battery capacity if and when I add in a full electric cooler/fridge.
• Don't worry... I won't fill the water tank up in the winter. I'm not super handy, but I'm not ignorant either.

What am I missing?

Oh, and a crazy fantasy. Neither my truck ('01 F150. Airbags and heavier leaf spring installed) nor the camper has a sliding window where their respective windows meet. What would it be like to remove both windows? Entirely remove them. And install a giant version of one of those dust/water boots. Dumb idea? They're roughly the same size as each other. It would be nice to be able to pre heat the camper while driving the truck (and curtain it off when I don't need to heat the camper) and to crawl back and forth from time to time.

 

[Vic Harder]

I'm the proud owner of a 1999 Hawk. For a while I watched national listings through the links on the "used truck camper listings" thread. I found this particular camper through a local web listing. I think I got a good deal, and have confidence in that thanks to the diligent sharing of links on the used listings compiled elsewhere on this forum. Thanks all!

I'll gladly post here as I renovate. Also, I'll ask some questions as I go.

I've had the camper since June of '18. I've probably spent 40 nights in it already, largely "as is".

At time of purchase:

• one roof lift panel was completely gone
• stove works
• fridge seems to not work
• Gritty and dirty inside
• No bed mattress.
• Leaks in vinyl
• Sink drains, but electric pump doesn't work
• Water tank doesn't hold water. Leaks at the drain.
• Never included heat of any sort

Budget, time, and "handiness" limit my renovation progress. Also, I'm accustomed to "roughing it", so I've been stoked with what this camper has to offer and haven't felt great pressure to race on a renovation. Nonetheless, I'm plugging away at it.

Things I've done so far:

• Assembled a mattress. I think I did well at this. Foam is expensive! And getting good cushion and insulation is tricky. Also, I wanted the mattress to fit in the smallest iteration of the cabover (roof down, bed "slide-out" collapsed) yet still fold out to the queen size. I had 5 vertical inches to fit the doubled mattress in. That meant I could make a mattress that is just less than 2.5 inches thick in queen and ~4.5 inches as a single bed. Attached photo shows the foams I used. I taped the closed cell sheets together along their long edges, doing so such that they hinge flat together. The memory foam covers the harder foam. I shoved it all in a queen size comforter duvet cover. The duvet is larger than necessary, but it was cheap and easy. Sewing a cover wouldn't be too complicated. The resulting bed works in either queen or single orientation. My lady digs the spartan cushion of the queen configuration. I think I'd prefer to use a latex foam topper instead of the memory foam. Next time...
• Replaced the front roof lift panel. Marty at ATC made one up. The entire transaction went real smoothly. Half the price I was quoted from FWC Cali. (my local FWC dealer -Jackson, WY- sent me straight to the Cali team). Manufactured and shipped in a couple weeks. I installed using existing holes and included hardware. Kind of a bear to install, but not impossible for my 10 thumbs. Maybe 2.5 hours installing, solo.
• Coated visible vinyl holes. There's still a leak somewhere, but not too bad. I coated the holes with the "HH66" vinyl sealant I saw recommended elsewhere here.
• And, of course, general clean up. I tore out some peeling flooring, washed the couch upholstery, reinforced the bed/couch/storage foot locker.

As winter locks down on Wydaho, my next priorities are winterizing. Help me out:

• Insulating the vinyl is an obvious step. I've seen some of the home-made solutions, and I've asked ATC about making me an "Arctic Pack". I was curious to learn that installing an ATC Arctic Pack would require temporarily detaching the existing vinyl from the roof, in order to install the velcro. I'm inclined to do something much simpler. Something with that reflectix stuff?
• I want baller propane heat. I'm not afraid of the cost of the Propex heaters. But I dunno where to install. The obvious place is beneath the fridge in the externally-accessed storage spot there. Seems best to maybe just ask advice from the Propex importer? For venting and air supply etc. Or consider something else entirely? Again, ATC surprised me when they said that a furnace install would require reframing the camper. That seems excessive? What am I missing?
• With a proper propane furnace, I'll need an upgraded electrical system... (the current lights run on the truck battery. Like, the truck's only battery. I don't use 'em much, as a result) Which is a whole ball of wax, I know... If I'm upgrading electrical, seems appropriate to consider future needs. Like maybe even a 12v fridge/cooler. There are piles and piles of web resources for "vanlife" electrical systems. Too much information, really.
• First, is there any reason that someone's Sprinter van electrical system won't work in my Hawk? Next, can anyone point me to a clear and reliable source of super-basic information on planning and purchasing for an upgraded electrical/battery system?
• I'm thinking of about 125 amp-hours of 12v AGM/Gel batteries, charged mainly from the truck inverter (with the option to add solar later). Seems like that'll run, for a few days, the lights, the water pump (or a replaced water pump), the heater (super basic/dumb question: do Propex heaters blow heat, or just radiate/convect it? Some of their draw seems like it must be from a fan?), and maybe charge a cell phone a little bit. Double up the battery capacity if and when I add in a full electric cooler/fridge.
• Don't worry... I won't fill the water tank up in the winter. I'm not super handy, but I'm not ignorant either.

What am I missing?

Oh, and a crazy fantasy. Neither my truck ('01 F150. Airbags and heavier leaf spring installed) nor the camper has a sliding window where their respective windows meet. What would it be like to remove both windows? Entirely remove them. And install a giant version of one of those dust/water boots. Dumb idea? They're roughly the same size as each other. It would be nice to be able to pre heat the camper while driving the truck (and curtain it off when I don't need to heat the camper) and to crawl back and forth from time to time.

Welcome to the cult!

Propex heaters have a fan. I installed one this fall.

Re: Electrical, I hope when you said "charged mainly from the truck inverter " you meant alternator?

And yes, there are reasons why someone else's install won't work for you. You need to figure out your estimated daily power consumption as a start. 125AH of battery gives you about 60AH usable. If you use 20AH a day, then you can go three days without charging.

Lots of good info in existing threads here. Mine is here - http://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/topic/13230-i-need-more-power-scotty/

 

[JediahPorter]

Re: Electrical, I hope when you said "charged mainly from the truck inverter " you meant alternator?

Good catch. See? I'm not that handy. I do value linguistic precision, and I know that I screwed that one up. I meant alternator.

 

[JediahPorter]

Lots of good info in existing threads here. Mine is here - http://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/topic/13230-i-need-more-power-scotty/

Holy moley, Vic Harder... I knew it was complicated, but I didn't know just how complicated. The good thing is that your explanation is clear as day, even to my simple brain. The math isn't as clear. But that'll come with some homework. Again, thanks for the link. That's what I'm looking for!

 

[CougarCouple]

Hello and welcome JediahPorter
Think I read here that some one used reflectix as a liner with positive results. Have you herd of the mister buddy heaters I think they have there down side but you can find YouTube videos on them in campers. Heater install needs to be framed for support and safety, I'm sure you were not told that needed reframing just to get you to spend money, also as a commercial enterprise they won't just half ass it. Vic's thread is a good read, don't think you will go wrong there. I would not tie the truck and camper togeather by removing both windows, that's just my opinion. Don't put water in your h2o tank and you'll be fine ( sorry had to )

Russ

 

[sameguy]

A propex heater is a good option for you. They are easy to install with very rudimentary plumbing and electrical skills. Will require drilling two holes in the skin of your camper, one for combustion air inlet and one for exhaust, these will need to be a minimum distance apart specified in the installation guide. They use very little electricity and are reasonably quiet. I installed one in my teardrop camper in about 5 hours which included opening the box, planning it out and running to the Farmers COOP a couple times to talk to the propane guy and having him make me a hose / regulator. I bet I could get one in in 2.5 hours now. If your camper doesn't have a place to put a propane bottle I would consider hanging it on the outside of the camper, meaning one more hole in the skin. If I were adding a Propex heater to a FWC, I think I would hedge my bets and go with the larger Propex unit if camping in cold weather.

Many people use a Mr. Buddy or similar heaters in their campers. The down side is the surface temp of the heater can be up to 1000 degrees so fire safety is an absolute must. Burning propane in this way (unvented) also adds a considerable amount of moisture to the air which can cause an issue with condensation. If they are kept clean they do not produce carbon monoxide and in a pop up camper, I wouldn't be too concerned about them burning up all of the oxygen in the room. (Mr. buddy has a low oxygen shutoff which can affect its performance at high altitude, although I have used mine at 10,000ft+ without issue)

As far as power requirements goes, many people with your requirements get by with one deep cell battery, 100AH. You will be charging your camper battery from your trucks alternator so it doesn't have to last weeks between charges, just a few days. You can go hog wild with electrical, solar, etc. but you can also start off very simple and inexpensively. If planned well, you can always add another battery if you need, and upgrade to solar as you learn more and feel more comfortable with your power requirements. My teardrop camper has one 100AH battery which runs the lights, charge random devices, Propex Heater, and occasionally the ARB fridge. I would guess the battery could run the lights, cell phones, etc, and Propex heater for a week, adding in the fridge would likely drop it to 3 to 4 days.

There is a fantastic thread on Expedition Portal called "How to make a cheap isolated dual-battery setup for $50" https://expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/how-to-make-a-cheap-isolated-dual-battery-setup-for-50.77503/
Despite the fact that there are 70 odd pages in this thread, it outlines very simply how to get this done on the first page. Many people will argue that charging a deep cycle battery from your alternator with a simple setup may not get it charged to 100% but you can get it to 90 to 95%in 30 minutes which is pretty good in my book.

My advice is to keep it simple, make a plan and start a thread here or Expedition Portal and ask lots of questions. The collective brain trust of both of these forums will get you lined out in short order. Good luck with your projects!

 

[JediahPorter]

Alrighty... an update.

I've secured some parts for electricity and heat. This collection of parts brings more questions than answers...

I just got ahold of:

• Propex 2000 heater. And associated doodads that Karl at Westy Ventures said I'd need.
• Renogy 200ah AGM battery. Thing's giant. Weighs more than each of my ex wives.
• Keyline smart isolator. Don't tell me this is the wrong thing. I did a ton of research. Well, if you tell me its the wrong thing, do so gently. It's still in the package; I can return it.
• A bunch of wires and connectors and stuff. Marine grade, Ancor brand. Smaller stuff. I think it's 14 awg. For connecting fuse box to appliances etc.

Already wired into the truck is a long run of heavy gauge cable. The former owner had some sort of pesticide tank in the bed with an electric pump he ran off the truck battery. Heavy gauge battery cables are spendy, so I'm hoping to cut this one down to use between truck battery, smart isolator, and house battery. That's my first question: Dumb idea to try and reuse this cable? It's a pair of big, fat, insulated wires with a ton of smaller strands inside. The sum is a pretty giant cable. The super simple follow-up question is "how do I get those ring-terminal connector thingys onto the end of the cut up reused heavy gauge wire?" Even more basic: how do I buy the right ring-terminal connector thingys? I don't know the effective gauge of the existing heavy wire.

The "stock" electrical system on the Hawk seems to work. At least for powering the lights. I'm going to keep that intact. At least, I assume it's the stock set up; there's a pair of thin cables I ran from the truck battery under the truck and up to the front left side of the truck bed. There, this cable from the truck battery plugs into a matching cable coming out of the camper. I connected the two (and dealt with some blown fuses) and the lights worked inside. Seems like a good sign. My rough vision is to install the house battery inside the camper and rewire the existing camper wiring to the house battery instead of to the truck battery. Seems like that should be pretty straightforward. Then I'll plug the propex wiring into the existing fuse box etc.

What am I missing or overlooking?

Also, in the realm of super basic questions that I can't seem to find answers to elsewhere on the web... How the heck do I attach to my brand new Renogy battery? Renogy says that the terminals are "T13". I've searched far and wide and found nothing that describes "T13" battery terminals and attaching to them. It just looks like a threaded hole. Do I simply find the bolt that fits and stack inbound and outbound wires on that bolt? Seems like it shouldn't be that simple...

Also, how do I tell the charge level of this battery? Did Renogy send it to me charged, you think? Seems I'll need a tool to tell that its charged now, and I'll need a similar tool to monitor things in the future. Is that just a regular volt meter? Is there such a thing as a "regular volt meter"? Or are there different kinds? I know there are sophisticated monitoring systems for these camper battery rigs, but I don't want to go down that road just yet.

Thanks team!

 

[JediahPorter]

Oh, and also... who can shoot me straight on this AGM battery and the cold. I know that it'll lose charge faster in the cold, and I know that charging it when it is frozen (a state the liquids enter when charge and temp are both low, right?) is no good. But, what's the common-sense way to deal with a battery like this in relatively cold northern intermountain climates? Can I store it in the camper for a month or two of non-use? Or should it come in the house for spells like that? It's a bear to move around...

 

[JediahPorter]

Just spent a half day working on some of the aforementioned renovations. Mainly, I pulled out cabinet paneling to see what I'm working with. And then I strapped the big Renogy battery down under the couch. I worked on re-routing some cabling and securing various fasteners etc. Notably, through trial and error, I learned that the Renogy "T13* battery terminals take an 8mm coarse thread (1.25) bolt. It seems that the crux of my Propex heater install will be the propane plumbing. I have so far chased a few dead-end leads in securing pro help with propane stuff here in Idaho's Teton Valley. I have some other options to pursue. Also, I secured Reflectix insulation for the vinyl. It seems that it will stay pretty secure and tight just by tucking appropriately sized sheets behind the lift panels, along the sides, and using the bungee anchors to steady/secure the reflectix sheets; pretty simple.

There's some sort of "system monitor" with lights and a pair of switches (one toggles on and off while one is just essentially a push-button) built into the cabinets. The faceplate decal is gone, so I don't know what this was ever for. I can kind of deduce from where the wires go. For instance, one switch is clearly for the water pump. Can I successfully eliminate this or ignore it, you think? Or ignore most of it, maybe keeping the water pump switch in line.

 

[Vic Harder]

Oh, and also... who can shoot me straight on this AGM battery and the cold.

AGM batteries and Flooded Lead Acid batteries do fine in the cold. They will not freeze unless they are at least partially discharged. They don't perform as well when cold though.

 

[Vic Harder]

There's some sort of "system monitor" with lights and a pair of switches (one toggles on and off while one is just essentially a push-button) built into the cabinets. The faceplate decal is gone, so I don't know what this was ever for. I can kind of deduce from where the wires go. For instance, one switch is clearly for the water pump. Can I successfully eliminate this or ignore it, you think? Or ignore most of it, maybe keeping the water pump switch in line.

Pictures help! That sounds like the factory battery and water level indicators. They were of marginal use to begin with.

 

[JediahPorter]

After a wicked stormy February (read; tons of skiing, no camper projects...) and a busy March, I've renewed my renovation efforts. Spent the day yesterday catching up, with the help of my dad and another handy friend.

Finished up the truck battery to house battery connection. I rerouted and cut short the heavy gauge wire and installed the Keyline isolator. As best I can tell, all is working properly. The house battery gets juice when the truck is running, and the truck battery didn't drain overnight.

Up to now I've used the Dometic refrigerator just as a cooler, with ice blocks for cooling. Basic efforts months ago to run it on propane and 12v were fruitless. To make visibility and access for the Propex heater install I pulled out the fridge. As an afterthought I plugged it into shore power in the garage. Seems like it works in that capacity. What are the chances that propane-powered cooling will work? Does my successful 110 experiment tell me anything about the on-the-go function of the fridge?

When I pulled the fridge I found that FWC had included a "T" in the propane line and wiring for a furnace. Must be heat was an option on this 1999 Hawk? In any case, that makes life a little easier. Did some shelving, drilling, and wire routing for the Propex power supply, thermostat, ducting, air intake, and exhaust. I'm hung up, currently, on the propane plumbing. I think I have everything I need except a "reducer" to go from the existing 3/8" plumbing and hardware to the 1/4" required by the Propex. I've got a trial part on order from Amazon, and have scouts out looking at stores further afield. I found this site helpful in my Propex installation. https://faroutride.com/propex-install/

I'm putting the Propex into the externally-accessed, drivers-side-rear storage compartment. Attached photo is a view of it sitting temporarily in its home, as viewed from inside the camper. I'll lose some of that storage space and will lose the external access (Propex intake/exhaust is bolted to the compartment door. Advice for reinforcing the super thin aluminum skin of that door to support the hoses and exhaust/intake fitting?) I'll box in the Propex (with proper clearances etc) and end up with a little bit of space leftover for storage at ground level, accessed from inside .

 

[Vic Harder]

I love my Propex! That said, I am worried about your install as it sits now, especially the intake/exhaust lines which look like they exit the camper very close together. I thought Propex specified a separation distance between the two? Also, it looks like those lines exit above the heater, which would allow condensation to pool in the lines. You want them to have at least a gradual down-slope, even better would be straight down and out the bottom of the camper.

As for that reducer you are looking for, didn't your Propex come with one?

Here is my install thread.
http://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/topic/13735-furnace-mounting-blowing-air-at-the-water-tank-lines/

 

[JediahPorter]

I love my Propex! That said, I am worried about your install as it sits now, especially the intake/exhaust lines which look like they exit the camper very close together. I thought Propex specified a separation distance between the two? Also, it looks like those lines exit above the heater, which would allow condensation to pool in the lines. You want them to have at least a gradual down-slope, even better would be straight down and out the bottom of the camper.

As for that reducer you are looking for, didn't your Propex come with one?

Here is my install thread.
http://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/topic/13735-furnace-mounting-blowing-air-at-the-water-tank-lines/

Interesting observation on the intake/exhaust. First, they meet the camper wall in a Propex-approved fitting that nests the two lines at a prescribed separation. The whole thing can be moved down and the hoses can spiral down to it, if need be. But I don't have room for a straight-shot gentle drain. I sent the same picture and an inquiry to Karl at WestyVentures.

I found a solution to make the 3/8 to 1/4 reduction.

It's all hooked up and works. Just need to close it in and fine tune the intake/exhaust if need be.

 

[Casa Escarlata Robles Too]

Also welcome to the Cult.Thanks for sharing your "new" camper build.
Glad to hear Marty at ATC was able to help you.
They are great people to work with.They built us a 2009 Bobcat
that we have had a great many adventures with.
Fun seeing your pictures and questions/answers.
Frank

 

[JediahPorter]

Plugging away... With more questions.

First, on that aforementioned "system monitor"... I've gathered more info. One switch turns on and off the power to the water pump. The other "switch" prompts the "tests" that light up the LED banks. But, with the decal gone, I don't know what the lights are supposed to mean. Who can tell me what the camper is telling me in the attached photo?

Also, the water pump: I put water in the tank (actually, refilled the tank. Despite my earlier assurances to the peanut gallery that I wasn't dumb enough to leave water in the tank through the winter, I did exactly that... Not only am I dumb enough to leave water in the tank, I'm cocky enough to brag about how dumb I am not. Confident incompetence. The good news is that nothing seems to have exploded. Surely, those few gallons froze solid in the weeks of single digit temps through mid winter...), put a fuse in the appropriate place, switched on the photographed switch (another LED lights up red when the water pump switch is on... what does that mean?), ensured electric is getting to the pump, and turned the sink faucet on and off. Nothing happens. What am I missing? Some sort of priming procedure? Likely that the pump is shot? In trying to pull the water pump out, I broke the inbound plastic nipple. So it likely needs replacing anyway.

What should I replace it with? Specifically, or in general terms? There are piles of "12v water pumps" on the internet. The one I just broke is labeled as "Nameco Model 12-026". That doesn't show up on the web. Neither ATC nor FWC identify, on their sites, what pump they currently use. I like how tiny the current one is. I've seen this one recommended elsewhere. Will it "plug and play" where the old one is? In terms of plumbing and wiring?

What about a hand pump faucet? Silly idea?

 

[JediahPorter]

Also, I re-routed the intake and exhaust as per Vic Harder's recommendation. I haven't yet heard back from Karl at Westy Ventures, but it was an easy-enough fix that I just did it anyway. Certainly can't hurt.

Also also, the fridge works. At least, it works on propane and 110. I haven't tried it on 12v yet. It's a Dometic three-way. My dad is visiting and he has one of these in his camper, so he helped me get it going. Pretty straight-forward. What he doesn't know about is propane and battery consumption rates. What can I expect, running it on each of these, respectively? Any other pitfalls or strategies he might not have relayed? i know there's something about keeping it level. What's that all about? How level is "level"? Does it matter only when the fridge is running, or all the time?

 

[Wandering Sagebrush]

My rule of thumb... if you can get it within half a bubble, the fridge runs fine. Your propane usage will be slight, however... on DC it’s going to march through your battery like Sherman on the way to the sea. I only use DC when driving. I switch to propane if stopped for more than 10 minutes.

What I’ve been told... Level helps the ammonia flow through through the tubing.

 

[Mighty Dodge Ram]

My experience with our RV 3-way has lead me to run ours on propane only. Even plugged into 110 nothing beats the cooling on propane. Take some compressed air and blow out the orifice and surrounding area. Spiders love to nest in there. If you shut off the propane at the bottle between trips it’ll take a bit for the propane to reach the orifice so be patient. Not sure about gas usage since our bottle is YUGE but it can’t be much. Wandering Sagebrush is on the money...mostly level is fine. This keeps the “boiling ammonia” from pooling in low spots. My motto: run it until it won’t run anymore. Then replace.

 

[JediahPorter]

More progress, some answers, and more questions...

We launch on a week-long work and play trip to Moab on Monday of this week. Ironing out the little things and getting others "good enough".

I ordered this water pump from Amazon. Figured that it was worth a try for $12. Seems to do the job. Simple little thing. The faucet on/off doesn't seem to work. When the pump is running, water comes out of the faucet whether the knob is forward or back. Which is better than the alternative. We'll just turn the faucet on and off with the water pump switch.

The $12 pump came with two unlabeled wires sticking out of it. I just guessed. Couldn't tell you now which colors they are and which I hooked to which. Similarly, the water fittings aren't labeled. Is that just what I get for $12? Or are both omissions related? Like, if I hooked it up to electric one way would water go left to right and then reverse the wiring (polarity?) and it goes right to left? Doesn't matter, as I seem to have gotten lucky.

I've got an outlet wired into the fuse box. One dual usb plug and one 12v socket. Seems to work. Just have to mount it into the plywood cabinet.

I know Vic Harder's answer to this next question ("get the Trimetric 2013 Monitor"), but I'm curious as to what my other options are. Mainly, what are my cheaper options? Now, hopefully my ignorance is clear... I don't know jack. Am I right in deducing that voltage out of the battery, under some sort of load, can serve as a proxy for state of charge? Like, I can watch the voltage and use the attached chart (or do I need a chart specific to my battery? Specific to the type of battery? Size of battery? Specific to the phase of the moon?) to keep from totally screwing up my battery?

Lastly, for now, tell me about safety sensors. There's propane sensors, smoke detectors, CO detectors, and something really cool I don't even know about. What do I need to keep from waking up dead? I ain't afraid to live on the edge a little bit. I'm sick of dumping money in this thing, for now. And I'm also sick of giving up space...

Speaking of, anyone mount a roof rack on their truck cab in front of the cabover? Any clever ways of cantilevering a rack out a little? Like a storage visor?