80's FWC what to look for before buying

[Roq]

I intend to look at an old Grandby after next payday if it is still available, are there any common issues to look for?

 

[Beach]

Check for; mold, mildew, wood rot( inside and out but especially the floor pan and lower sides), signs of water leakage, worn and/or brittle fabric. If so equipped, check appliances to see if they work. Check wiring for corrosion if the camper spent time on the coast. My 2 cents

 

[Ted]

Check the width of it against the width of your truck bed tailgate. Truck beds back in the early days of FWC had straight side rails and a full width tailgate. Now truck bed rails turn inward and the tailgate is narrower. So if you are driving a newer truck, you may not be able to get an older camper in the bed.

 

[Roq]

Thanks guys. This one has been modified to fit newer trucks. Looks like I will need to frame a base for it though.
Were these just bolted through the camper floor into the bed?

 

[Lighthawk]

I think it was Stan who said get inside the camper and sit there for a while. See if it's a good fit for you.
Does it smell okay? How are the cushions, headliner, bed, floor? Do the appliances all work? Are there any manuals?
Try every window, and see if the velcro is still functional.

Inspect the rear door corners for cracks, inside and out. There have been frame failures there.
Bring a ladder and check out the roof, weatherstripping, underside of overhang. Caulking is usually a sign of a leak.
Hold downs should be inspected, from underneath to see if the plywood has been deformed or broken.
I think FWC had a different anchor there in the past.

Check the age of the battery, although you will probably replace it.

Just off the top of my head.
Good luck with purchase!

 

[LuckyDan]

Depending on when in the 80’s it was built, yes they just bolted through the floor. Mine was that way originally. When I bought it it didn’t have any floor covering and the holes were there. Someone along the way added four eye bolts on the corners.

What to look for? A lot of good advice thus far. Especially the sit in it awhile part. I own an 80’s vintage, here’s my take:

Most of that vintage had the insulated soft side. They had a propensity to get moldy and can’t be easily cleaned. Most people replace them at some point.

Look closely at the roof where the side trim meets for good seal. On the early years the soft side was attached outside the roof panels and covered with trim. A leak often developed and soaked the soft side. Later years the roof panels were folded over the soft side. A lot of people pull the trim and bend the roof panels over the outside of the soft side.

The Roof is two piece with a seam down the middle and screwed to the frame. Look that the seam looks well sealed and the screws are well covered with dicor. If the seam looks iffy look closely at the roof inside for water stains. A lot of people run a wide strip of Eternabond down the seam to seal it. Lots of large hail pockets un-filled need to be examined. Somewhere on here is a post of an old Grandby rebuild. When they pulled the panels to re-insulate the roof, several pock marks had penetrated the roof.

If it has the louvered windows, check that the cranks work correctly and easily. The crank assemblies can be hard to find at times.

The advice to look for cracks or buckling in the walls is sound advice. To get the “flex frames” they advertised then, the wall studs weren’t welded all the way around. Several of the rebuild threads on here over the years mention finding broken frame studs.

Look close at the water tank. Some tanks used had a center seam that had a propensity to develop a leak. Look to see if it’s flaking or wiggly at the seam and for water staining on the floor. The old units tended to ride heavy to the street side. Some people move the tank to the front center compartment and install a better electric pump to move water.

The electric system, at least on mine was dirt simple originally. It was 12 volt only with a 4 round automotive fuse block. The power to all the overhead and outside lights runs to roof behind the front panel. Look as best you can that the harness is still supple and not getting kinked by the panel folding on it.

If all looks good, smells good, not suffering from overly poor craftsmanship and as measured will fit your truck, don’t fear an older one. There isn’t that much to one, for the most part repairable, and parts are available. I had a camping buddy who owned a Keystone for near 40 years. It was still fully functioning at the time of his passing.

Good luck with your decision.