A bunch of questions about re sealing roof

hpcbmw

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Location
Northern Cal
My 1997 Granby has had a roof leak off and on for a few years. Being in California with the drought the last few years, it hasn't really been an issue, but we took it to Yellowstone a few weeks ago and it became a problem. After reading lots of posts, my plan is to remove all the roof and side strip screws, scrape off any exposed old sealant, then replace with new sealant, new screws and new washers with rubber backing. I'll put a dab of sealant into each screw hole before the screw, and another dab on top of each screw. I"ll also shoot some exapanding foam into every other trim screw hold in the rounded corners.

Here are all my questions (so far):
1. should I replace all the old no. 8 screws with stainless no. 10 screws, or use stainless no. 8's, and only use no. 10s where the hole is stripped out.

2. I see dicor self leveling lap sealant recommended in a lot of posts. That should work for the screw holes on the roof, but will it work on the edge/seam between the roof and the side trim? It seems like it will just drip, since it's "self leveling". If not, what product should I use?

3. There is a bunch of sealant on and around the two roof vents. Should I remove ALL the exposed sealant and re apply with the dicor stuff?

4. When I remove the roof screws, a lot of the screw holes have sharp edges sticking up. Do you leave these as is? Tap them down with a hammer and a punch or flat plate? Try to trim them off somehow?

5. I see people re-painting their roofs with Rustoleum oil based enamel (often recommend by Stan). I assume this is mostly aesthetic, and won't provide any sealant properties. Has anyone tried the RV rubber roof paint products, like this: https://www.amazon.com/Liquid-Roof-Coating-Repair-Gallon/dp/B003K9XGTK

6. One roof vent is a fantastic fan. The other looks like it was probably installed at the factory 20 years ago. The vent cover has come off and the replacement I put on it doesn't fit right. Is it better to keep the 20 yr old vent and just find the correct replacement cover, or to replace the whole vent with a new one? The existing vent is in good shape and the part above the roof is metal. On the one hand, I prefer to follow "if it aint broke, don't fix it". On the other hand, I intend to have the camper 5-10 more years and don't want to have to mess with the roof after this repair job.

7. My roof has what looks like four little "vents" -basically one on each corner. I'm attaching a picture. I pulled one of the little vent covers and underneath is a round hole about 3/4" across. I assume this is necessary for venting and I should re install it the same way I took it off (my first thought was to plug all the holes to stop the damn water from coming in).

Any ideas, tips or tricks to get the old sealant off, prep the roof, etc is appreciated! I'm currently using razor blades, a small wire brush and rubbing the old sealant with my finger while wearing rubber work gloves.
 

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The 4 little vents are indeed vents. My camper has them as well. I think they were to help with venting the condensation from under the headliner.
I sprayed my entire roof, screws and all with Raptor truck bed liner tinted to match my off white/beigeish camper about years ago. IMO it is the only way to go. seals everything, looks good, extremely durable, and washes clean with a hose. The kit costs under $100 with the gun. It took way longer to mask everything than it did to apply the product. I would replace only the screws that were stripped and carefully tap the holes back with a ball peen hammer to get more thread purchase.

cwd
 
Thanks CWD, still looking at the roof paint vs. truck bed liner. I called Dicor and asked about what products to use. They suggested Diseal over the screw heads on the roof, prior to paint and butyl tape between the trim strip and the roof for where the roof meets the side. Finally, a bead of dicor lap seal, non self leveling, around the top edge of the roof trim and on top of each side trim screw head, or run Diseal tape over the side trim scew heads.

Anybody tried this? My concern is that i don't want to remove the whole side trim to run the butyl tape underneath it. The trim looks like two very long peices surround the whole roof. I might do it without the butyl tape, but using a thin coat of lap seal over the trim, and then a strip of the Diseal tape over the top, then paint the roof.

Hmmm - too many options!
 

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