A Lift / leveling kit question

[100acrehuphalump]

Besides adding clearance and bling does adding a 3-4 " lift do anything to help with suspension? How would a leveling kit work for carrying a camper? I've got people trying to sell me on different things and need some honest opinions. Yes I will be traveling off road, hopefully not rock crawling.

 

[Smokecreek1]

Look there is no one answer to your question because every situation is different depending on what type of truck, what tires you have (what ply) and camper you have and what's in it, where you go and what you do when you get there (your level of comfort and play). If your camper is designed to fit you truck, you probably can get by with not many changes-again depending on what's inside your camper etc. If you have a three way gas frig, you need to be fairly level to make things work, that's not a problem so much with a compression frig. If you cook inside it also helps to have the stove level. A level camper is easier to sleep in and hang about in. So once you figure out what you want, then you go from there. That is what your dealer is for and if you need specific help we all love to talk on this site and give our advise and there are lot's of threads that discuss various options and solutions.

So, for example, I have a 99 F150 61/2 foot bed 4x4 with the tail gate down, and a 05 Gramby FWC. Things worked okay, as long as I parked on level ground, the problems started when things were not level. My 3 way shut down and defrosted a couple of times before I figured out I had to do something. Solution number one get a set of levelers and I added a line level to my gear. Sometimes I had some really interesting leveling set ups.Yep it worked, but I'm, lazy, so I went down and had some air bags installed and added a hand tape to my gear. Sure that was great, putting air in and letting it out sort of leveled things up worked-but again I lazy. Then they started blowing out or I forgot to check the air gauge before I left for the field-no fun., sooo after several months of trying to make that set up work, I gave up and added Helwig super springs. it sort of helped but not enough. My Ford dealer suggested I go to a specialized shop that basically, converted my suspension from a 1/2 ton to a 3/4 ton. Problem solved. Me and my truck are happy.

So in answer to your question do it right the first time, and use your dealer and sites like this for ideas; or you can be like most of us and spend several years doing this and that, and then adding this and that, until you see the next thing you want and adding that-like solar- and getting to start all over again ! From back pack to having that dream machine-- will it ever end ! You may need to go from point "a" to point "b" and you need to be ready for it - right-buy tires that can do that rock crawling with, but good for normal driving too, be prepared is the motto of this site!

Enjoy

Smoke

 

[100acrehuphalump]

Thanks Smoke, I'll look into the 1/2 - 3/4 ton conversion suspension upgrade.

 

[Smokecreek1]

Thanks Smoke, I'll look into the 1/2 - 3/4 ton conversion suspension upgrade.

Wow there-try it as you got it first, it may work just great as is-every situation is different-those red levelers may be all you need-or you may be fine as you are. It's nice to know your options, but not everyone needs to do what I did. I've got friends that love their airbags and some that hate them. Do you own thing and enjoy your new toy!

Smoke

 

[Kolockum]

Wow there-try it as you got it first, it may work just great as is-every situation is different-those red levelers may be all you need-or you may be fine as you are. It's nice to know your options, but not everyone needs to do what I did. I've got friends that love their airbags and some that hate them. Do you own thing and enjoy your new toy!

Smoke

[SIZE=10.5pt]I agree with Smoke. Use your set up and make improvements as you need to. That way you know exactly what you want. Lifting a truck properly costs a lot and can create unforeseen issues. It might be simpler and cheaper to add rock guards or one or two strategically placed skid plates.[/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt]I regularly take my truck/camper off road and even on some tight 4x4 trails with a good spotter. My truck is almost completely stock (other than add-a-leaf in the rear) and I rarely have any clearance issues. [/SIZE]

 

[Casa Escarlata Robles Too]

Smoke has great advice IMO,and this site has loads of members who will help.
One thing I would like to add. You asked about a 3" to 4" lift, IMO that only raises the center of gravity. Lifting the "body" of the truck
doesn't help much with the ground clearance you still have the same distance from ground to axials.
Frank

 

[100acrehuphalump]

Thanks y'all. I finally found out my payload capacity. It's 1,870 lbs. with a loaded Hawk, a 36 gallon tank, 20 gal water plus my upgrades, me and the dog, Engel 45, etc, I'm looking at being about 350-500 lbs over. Is that acceptable or am I about to screw myself? Thanks

 

[rotti]

My thought would be/might be acceptable with an upgrade in tires....at least D but preferably E.
Lift kit would be my last choice. If the camper is to be mostly on full time I would look into a rear spring rebuild.
Chill and drive it before you get too carried away.

 

[100acrehuphalump]

The camper will be on at least two to three months at a time, and then intermittent weekend jaunts to the beach or Forest. I am going to purchase E rated tires and more than likely Firestone Ride rites. Yes I am probably over worrying things a bit. I'd rather err on the side of safety, as I will be doing some off road traveling and I don't want to over stress my truck. I am just trying to be proactive in researching every angle for what my best situation will be. I will have the E- tires and airbags prior to installing the camper. Different businesses in the area are throwing lifts, kits, leafs, and other stuff at me..basically a noobie......
Some if not most of y'all have past experiences I can learn from, nor are you attempting to make a few bucks off of me, so I trust your opinions and have a higher regard for your ideas and I thank you wholeheartedly. Dan

 

[Lighthawk]

If the camper was on full time, I would go with spring upgrade. But first try it without any mods and see how your truck rides, as already recommended by others.

E rated tires are a must IMHO. I frequently air down and find the ride so much more comfortable, and traction is excellent too. I'm thankful for the stiff sidewalls of my BFG's, when I decide to run 50mph down to the service station, once I hit pavement, instead of pulling out my 12v compressor too. The E rated tires seem to have more substantial structure.

If you do go airbags, switch out the bolts (Firestone Ride Rites) and replace them with grade 8's. I broke bolts twice on a DV trip and never want to do that again.

 

[100acrehuphalump]

If the camper was on full time, I would go with spring upgrade. But first try it without any mods and see how your truck rides, as already recommended by others.

E rated tires are a must IMHO. I frequently air down and find the ride so much more comfortable, and traction is excellent too. I'm thankful for the stiff sidewalls of my BFG's, when I decide to run 50mph down to the service station, once I hit pavement, instead of pulling out my 12v compressor too. The E rated tires seem to have more substantial structure.

If you do go airbags, switch out the bolts (Firestone Ride Rites) and replace them with grade 8's. I broke bolts twice on a DV trip and never want to do that again.

That's a great help, every bit of information everyone shares is incredibly useful and I appreciate your advice. Thank you.

 

[pvstoy]

Suggest E rated tires and then mount the camper and see where things sit. If rear sag then first consider air bags to get the ride height where it should be, because you said camper won't be on often. Full time camper on the truck I would suggest just doing custom springs pack one with many thin leafs to get the proper ride height.

Remember these people trying to sell you after market lift kits are making money and you don't need the extra worry that some after market products can break. If you raise your ride height with a lift you raise your center of gravity and with a camper that raises it even more. You can over come this by increasing the width of your stace with wider tires or wider axles. Adding a rear sway bar helps also.

You can invest a lot of money depending the path you take, but in the end make it simple, safe and dependable!

 

[100acrehuphalump]

Suggest E rated tires and then mount the camper and see where things sit. If rear sag then first consider air bags to get the ride height where it should be, because you said camper won't be on often. Full time camper on the truck I would suggest just doing custom springs pack one with many thin leafs to get the proper ride height.
Remember these people trying to sell you after market lift kits are making money and you don't need the extra worry that some after market products can break. If you raise your ride height with a lift you raise your center of gravity and with a camper that raises it even more. You can over come this by increasing the width of your stace with wider tires or wider axles. Adding a rear sway bar helps also.
You can invest a lot of money depending the path you take, but in the end make it simple, safe and dependable!

Sage advice and thanks!

 

[DesertDave]

If you have not weighed your truck on a scale, that might produce some interesting info. Based on my own experiences I would venture it weighs more than you might think, before you load the new FWC on it. Could be a useful $10 investment to know for sure.

As a reference point, my 2007 F350 Extended cab SRW 4X with Grandby fully loaded after refueling weighs 10320 lbs. The truck has a GVWR of 11400 and a payload capacity (door sticker) of 3923 lbs. This would imply that the camper/ 2 people/stuff/ truck mods etc. weigh about 2831 pounds.

I can account for 2100 of this weight by knowing the weight of the camper, the water, the people. The rest must be all the little things on the truck and clothes and food and firewood. It's the stuff on the truck like bedliner, the extra lights, the tools, etc that account for most of this surprise weight.

 

[Beach]

A lift will not add to your payload capacity(unless it uses re arched heavier springs). I have super springs on my 06 tundra and while they do the job, I have come to the conclusion that replacement spring packs built to the correct load cap is the best route. Don't forget to upgrade the shocks also.

 

[enelson]

A lift will not add to your payload capacity(unless it uses re arched heavier springs). I have super springs on my 06 tundra and while they do the job, I have come to the conclusion that replacement spring packs built to the correct load cap is the best route. Don't forget to upgrade the shocks also.

Yes I agree. I installed an OME spring/shock kit all the way around. On the new leaf springs I installed airbags too. I had to have the bags pumped up to around 65psi and decided to try an OME add a leaf in the Dakar spring pack instead. I like the feel a lot better with the add a leaf over the bags. I'm adding a rear sway bar next week that I expect will help with the roll on corners. I will try to get end-link quick disconnects for the sway bar, but that is another project.

 

[Happyjax]

Well this seems the place to ask one of my burning questions Noob warning.....
I am looking at a Hallmark or FWC and it looks like the base weight of the camper will be around 1200-1300 lbs. I want to add solar panels and a few other options like an awning and pottie. After adding water, propane and batteries and me and stuff I would guess maybe 2000-2200 lbs. Now the new F-150 with larger engine and wheels and towing package can handle that but a 250 would do it with ease. I would sacrifice some gas mileage but be well within safety range on weight, brakes etc.
I see many folks going with the 150 or comparable truck and then adding a bunch of kits and things to make it work better. Would these leveling kits and airbags be needed for the 250 type vehicle? Are all of these additions to offset weight issues or are they needed if the truck is beefy? So many things I had never even thought of when I said hey I think I'll just get me a truck and a camper......duh
Thanks

 

[camelracer]

Well this seems the place to ask one of my burning questions Noob warning.....
I am looking at a Hallmark or FWC and it looks like the base weight of the camper will be around 1200-1300 lbs. I want to add solar panels and a few other options like an awning and pottie. After adding water, propane and batteries and me and stuff I would guess maybe 2000-2200 lbs. Now the new F-150 with larger engine and wheels and towing package can handle that but a 250 would do it with ease. I would sacrifice some gas mileage but be well within safety range on weight, brakes etc.
I see many folks going with the 150 or comparable truck and then adding a bunch of kits and things to make it work better. Would these leveling kits and airbags be needed for the 250 type vehicle? Are all of these additions to offset weight issues or are they needed if the truck is beefy? So many things I had never even thought of when I said hey I think I'll just get me a truck and a camper......duh
Thanks

If the truck manufacturers could increase payload capacity by just adding some air bags don't you think they would do it. Capacity is more involved than just keeping the bumper from dragging. Imagine how sparse this site would be without air bag / suspension threads.