Accessing the plumbing manifold on a Hawk

smcburnett

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May 5, 2023
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I have a 2021 Hawk with front dinette and I’m trying to replace a cracked plumbing manifold. I have the part and am trying to remove the front cabinet panel to gain access to the manifold. I have removed all of the fasteners I can see and the forward section and upper rear of the panel is loose. However, the rear bottom of the panel seems firmly attached to the floor. Have I missed a hidden fastener? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
 
The battery compartment is sealed, so there is silicone sealant adhering the front of the cabinet to the battery compartment walls. Feel around the joint in the battery compartment and you will feel the sealant. I suspect that is what is holding the front on after the fasteners are all removed.
 
smcburnett said:
I have a 2021 Hawk with front dinette and I’m trying to replace a cracked plumbing manifold. I have the part and am trying to remove the front cabinet panel to gain access to the manifold. I have removed all of the fasteners I can see and the forward section and upper rear of the panel is loose. However, the rear bottom of the panel seems firmly attached to the floor. Have I missed a hidden fastener? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
I always forget to quote on these types of questions so you get a notification.

Also, if it is the sealant holding it, I’d recommended some careful work with a razor blade instead of just trying to tear it free.
 
I was able to get the forward end of the the front panel free but unable to get the rear end free. FWC was queried but their response was not useful, so I implmented what my wife called the "nuclear option". I cut the cabinet panel in half vertically (see image 1). The forward half of the panel can be swung out and allows immediate access to almost all of the plumbing. When the panel section is replaced the cut is visible but I will cover it with a nice piece of trim.
 

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smcburnett said:
I was able to get the forward end of the the front panel free but unable to get the rear end free. FWC was queried but their response was not useful, so I implmented what my wife called the "nuclear option". I cut the cabinet panel in half vertically (see image 1). The forward half of the panel can be swung out and allows immediate access to almost all of the plumbing. When the panel section is replaced the cut is visible but I will cover it with a nice piece of trim.
Ouch, I hate cutting into things, but it looks like your best solution was to slice it.

What did you use to cut the cabinet?
 
your nuclear option looks pretty good to me. its surprising, with that many widgets behind that panel, you would think there would be a way to get in there and fix, replace, etc.
thx for posting.
go
 
BigRanchInSky said:
Ouch, I hate cutting into things, but it looks like your best solution was to slice it.

What did you use to cut the cabinet?
Jig saw with a laminate blade (20 tpi - very smooth cut) and a straght edge clamped to the panel to guide the saw.
 
I suspect some residual water in the system. I drained everything and had a heater inside all winter but we had a few ferociously cold days and nights that probably overwhelmed it.
 
smcburnett said:
I suspect some residual water in the system. I drained everything and had a heater inside all winter but we had a few ferociously cold days and nights that probably overwhelmed it.

Sorry to keep with questions, but where exactly in the system did it rupture and was that a low spot?

Thanks....
 
The manifold cracked (rather substantially) at the inboard end of the forward manifold past the last hose connection. While this is not a real low spot, it could collect water if the rig was not perfectly level when drained, i.e., tipped slightly toward the passenger side. Too bad FWC doesn't use a copper (vice plastic) manifold. The metal ones are extensively used for in-floor heating systems so they cannot be too expensive. I'm continuing to search for one ready-made, but I may have to just take the broken one to a plumber and have one fabricated. I really don't want to do this every spring!
 
smcburnett said:
<snip>
While this is not a real low spot, it could collect water if the rig was not perfectly level when drained…
<snip>
I am a fan of Ask This Old House, and one of their programs was on frozen and ruptured plumbing. According to Richard Trethewey (and plumbers never lie), it’s the air compressed by the expanding ice that is the real villain. I would not have suspected that.
 
Sorry.

My bet for understanding liquids (as well as all other matter) is on Physicists.

My bet for getting things holding liquids to work is on Plumbers. (even if they don't actually understand how or why liquids do what they do).

;-)
 
Close but ...but water is compressible [ surface sea level responds to atmospheric pressure changes]; just not much :cool: While of course gases are compressible...deferential heating of a pipe/manifold with the air trapped by ice 'plugs' could cause the air to expand and rupture the material before the ice melted...WAG

All this is conjecture on what split his pipe...I still do not know what or where the 'manifold' is...my '16 Hawk is the only plumbing I know of...

All academic but would like to know the temperatures causing this, at what temperature the heater in the camper kept the interior and if the cabinet doors were open to allow in the heat...or even the tie-down doors were open...

Fore warned is fore armed...


Phil
 

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