Bedliner camper bottom?

Squatch

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I figure this may have been covered but I haven't seen it.

The gray paint on the plywood part of my Eagle needs a recoat. I'm thinking of using a DIY polyurethane bedliner to coat it. One of the ones with ground rubber crumb in it. Has anyone done this here?

When I redo the bed on the Moon truck I will use a DIY bedliner but one that is smoother without the rubber crumb. So I figure the stickiness of the rubber on the camper bottom will help keep it from moving in the bed and I won't need the extra weight of a rubber pad.

I'll probably use this product. I've used it before on my boat topsides. It's a water based marine product and holds up well.
http://www.tuffcoat.net/wordpress/marine-2/

This is what it looks like on my boat. Very UV resistant compared to most of these products.
 
I've been thinking about this in the future after our year long trip. When I bought my camper and had it installed at FWC Jackson Hole, Denny mentioned that DIY bed liner will work great.


www.mulehawk.com
 
I saw on truckcampermagazine.com a new camper from palomino I think? It had a bed liner completely around it from top to bottom. I've considered the bottom and roof but not much more then that.


Sent from my iPad using Wander The West
 
I used bed liner on the bottom of my camper some years ago and have commented on that several times. I also used tinted-to-match bed liner on the roof of my camper. IMO it is the only way to go.

cwd
 
Squatch said:
Thanks, I brought this up because I thought I had read somewhere that some one had done it and had rot problems. That didn't make sense to me.

A lot of undefined terms...a bed liner is usually just that, a material, liquid or solid, that lines/coats a truck bed ....using a spray on bed liner material on the bottom wood of the camper would seem to make sense but only IF it did not trap moisture against the wood...anything that holds moisture against wood [or metal for that matter] invites de-lamination of plywood or rot of the wood and corrosion of the metal...

Currently FWC coats the outside wood with an impermeable surfacing that is "used on marina docks"; hence water-proof.

Does the 'new' FWC coating work? Time will tell.

Our Tundra bed is Line-X coated and water freely moves out of the bed and out from under our '16 Hawk..

Not sure why anyone would put bed-liner material over an aluminum roof ??? :cautious:

Phil
 
"Not sure why anyone would put bed-liner material over an aluminum roof???"

Anyone who wants to completely seal the seams, screws and have dirt and bugs wash right off. Basically ...the smart ones.

cwd
 
cwdtmmrs said:
"Not sure why anyone would put bed-liner material over an aluminum roof???"

Anyone who wants to completely seal the seams, screws and have dirt and bugs wash right off. Basically ...the smart ones.

cwd

Ouch! I must be the dumb one.. :D One piece aluminum roof on my Hawk...bugs on the roof are also not an issue with me...but hey, we each individualize our campers to meet our needs and sensibilities..

I just thought I had missed something with the concept of coating the roof of my new FWC Hawk with bed liner..I didn't. :)

Phil
 
Bedliner is a pretty generic term. It can means anything from paint to high pressure sprayed plastic resins. The material I posted about above is actually a marine product (a polyurethane resin) in the formulation I would be using. It is regularly used on the bottom of wave pools and on ship decks ect as a traction surface. Sounds a lot like: "Currently FWC coats the outside wood with an impermeable surfacing that is "used on marina docks"; hence water-proof." It has been on the topsides of my bass boat since 2006 and is just now started to show a little sun fade. It's stored outdoors.

I don't see how a waterproof coated applied to a dry wood surface would trap moisture unless there was a massive leak that wetted the floor regularly from the inside. Or the wood was soaked when coated. Not much place to trap moisture between the coating and the surface.

But I vaguely remember reading a post somewhere about someone who did have trouble. It was a while ago and I don't remember where I read it. I never got why he had issues. I suspect user error in application. But It never hurts to ask if anyone else has had similar.

I've used several variations of similar brands and products on different equipment over the years. Only once have I had a problem. That was an inexpensive consumer DIY bedliner product with a big company name. Even with proper prep it got brittle and flaked off a steel bumper. It seemed to be pretty much a thickened paint product.

The stuff I intend to use to "paint" my truck would be a wonderful coating for a roof probably. It comes in white! I believe one member here is using it to cover his entire homebuilt camper.
 
Most DIY bed liner can be tinted. My FWC is a mid 90's and is a cream color (which I like better than white anyway). Also, 1 piece roofs are pretty new. Any FWC more than a few years old, and all ATC campers have a seamed roof with lots of screws. Applied correctly, the DIY bed liner coats everything just like it would in the bed of your truck. It sticks to almost anything. I sprayed my roof and rolled the floor after some additional SS screws and caulking were applied. Waterproof and BIG bonus, the camper doesn't move on the bed now.

cwd
 
Which product did you use? I intend to do the exterior and bed of the Moon truck with Monsta liner.

In the past I've used Herculiner with good results. But it does fade quickly in the sun. The stuff on the boat is very similar but water based and much more resistant to UV.

There is a company that makes insulating micro beads that you add to paint for heat reflection. On EP a few folks have done truck roof's with it. They say it really reduces inside temps. I always wondered if it could be added to something like Monstaliner for camper roof's.
 
Squatch, I look up my receipt from 2009. I used Raptor Truck bed kit which included the gun for $122.00 and it still looks great.

cwd
 
PaulT said:
Ymmv but for a disenting viewpoint on the microbeads, http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/blogs/dept/musings/insulating-paint-merchants-dupe-gullible-homeowners

Ask for reports from testing labs on R value of resulting coating.

Just saying...
Paul
Thanks for the link. I was always skeptical of those homeowner ads.
I had read some 1st hand accounts from a couple of folks who added the beads to the white roof coatings on their trucks. A couple actually did a before and after with an infrared thermometer on the inside of the roof on similar days. They showed a marked difference. It was my impression that it was more about reflecting the heat away then insulation. Sort of like Reflectex does. I gathered it was a combination of going to the white roof along with the beads.

I have a fairly new Camper with the one piece roof. No need to cover mine anytime soon.

You have to have thickness or airspace for R value.

CWD I have heard of the Raptor but have no experience with it. I'm glad it's worked out for you. I'm glad at least a couple of folks have had good luck coating the bottom of their campers with some sort of liner. I'm pretty sure I'm going to do that.

1st I have to add another access panel near the front. Due to the huge wheel wells in my pickup the forward opening on my Eagle mostly opens into wheel well. I'm just going to use a hole saw to make a minimal hole on each side in the proper place. I discussed it with FWC's and had them send me 2 more hatch covers and hinges for the inside of the camper. Once that's done it will get coated.
 
Speaking of moving the front turnbuckles. Does anyone have a picture of the new style turnbuckle attachments on their camper? When FWC sent me the doors I also had them send me 2 of them. Just curious which direction they mount. Flange out or in? My Eagle came with the older eyebolts/nuts.
 
Hey guys, I was going to try a liner over my roof as well. Is the consensus to do a truck bedliner vs a Henry roof coating or even flex seal?
Any idea how difficult it would be to dig down to the screws in the future if I finally get to the point where I replace the entire roof.

Last dumb question. I know it would add more weight, but has anyone used a heavier gauge aluminum or added another layer?
Where I live we get pretty massive snows and the weight of the snow has stretched my roof and in turn stretches the holes that the screws go through which equals leaks.
Simply put I need a roof that can support a higher snowload.
 
I'll try to post a shot or two of mine when I get home from work today. I just picked it up last week.
I will post it on my "Bombsight Build" thread with a link to the photos here.
 
Here is a photo of the driver's side rear turnbuckle flange mount on my 2014 Hawk. Flange is to the outside on this one.
 
Thank you very much for that picture. It will help a lot when I get to installing my new mounts.

Qcamper. I think snow load has more to do with framing structure than sheet metal.

Before coating I would make sure all the screws are tight before starting the job. But If you have to dig some out later. I have found very few things the right accessory in a Dremel couldn't get me to. I find it amazing all the years I survived without one. Not sure I could now.
 
Thanks Squatch, I don't want to hijack the post. If there are any posts that you are aware of where someone modified the roof structure I would appreciate it. I am new to the board and I haven't really found anything pertaining to the roof structure, but someone that is on here alot may recall a post or two.
 

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