Black Rock Desert to High Rock Canyon, part I

Lighthawk

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After a summer of smokey conditions and forest closures we were ready to head out to the Nevada desert.
There was no Burning Man this year, so why not head to Black Rock, Soldier Meadows and finally run High Rock Canyon? We booked four days and hatched a plan.

I had researched this trip nine years ago, and we had visited the area. Would we be like Magellan and return from our trip, or persevere?

We got out of town Friday midday and traveled over Donner Summit, through Reno onto Fernley, to refuel. The new RAM truck with it's 8 speed transmission, 6.4 hemi and 4.10 gears is an amazing package. I can finally use cruise control. Gas mileage is about par with my 15 year old Tundra. The gearing is great for trails, even 2WD or 4WD high. Locking down into lower gears is pretty slick from the steering wheel buttons.

It was smokey driving out through Truckee / Reno, and we were concerned it would impact our trip to Black Rock. There was a heavy haze leaving Fernley, but it got better as the day went on.

It's 70 miles to Gerlach, where we would leave pavement for the next 300 miles. I filled up a 5 gal. auxiliary tank in Fernley. I never used the extra gas, but my stress level was reduced several times on the tour knowing we were covered. Scarcity of fuel, battery storage, water, or beverage of choice can be stressful, and who wants that?

We accessed the playa at the 8 mile entrance and charted our way across the inland ocean of flatness. We came upon a mirage of campers, way out there. Like waaaay out there.




They looked pretty organized with blue and pink porta-potties.
I think one of the companies was a rocketship hobby business.



We steered clear and kept heading the last third of the way across the 15 mile crossing of the playa.







We were on part of the history Applegate Trail, bringing emigrants to the Oregon Territory. The South Emigrant Trail was established in 1846 as an alternative to running the Columbia River. We followed this route through Soldier Meadows and High Rock Canyon. I can't imagine the hardships they went through compared to our experience behind the wheel of a modern 4WD truck.



We passed a group including a Honda, two bikes, and several Tacos and SUV's all heading out. Good! I found a wide spot so we could watch them go by.

It was quiet when we got to Black Rock HS.
I dipped a finger, and wished I had a thermometer to measure the temp.



There was one guy was pitching a tent at a camp north of the spring in a protected spot behind a vegetated dune.

We were concerned about predictions of high winds of 45mph on Saturday followed by possible rain. I got several weather updates on my Inreach device while we were out there, and they were quite accurate.


We continued north to Double Hot HS, following a bumpy track skirting the springs, and admiring the nearby mountains.




We continued to Double Hot where an Australian dude with brand new FWC popup camper and huge trailer (outdoor kitchen, moto-hauler) was camped pretty close to the tub.

We were camped 1/4 mile away next to the hot stream at the end of a double track



We had a really nice spot with a rising nearly full moon to reflect in the creek.






Morning light with sage thrashers. female red-winged blackbirds.
(Tip o' the hat to Wandering Sagebrush for the correct ID)




Heading back south we left the road between Casey Spring and BR Hot Spring and worked our way west to the playa following sparse tracks. Wind gusts were starting to lift dust high in the air, but we skirted them to the south, eventually exiting north of Mormon Dan.





Next episode:
Soldier Meadows to High Rock Canyon
 
Yes, please! Very interested in hearing how your full size did in High Rock Cyn. The Colorado Crew I occasionally run with had a similar trip planned several years ago, but we postponed due to a very wet Spring in the area. This trip remains high on my list.
 
I always thought it'd be a blast to launch rockets out on the playa. I did High Rock Nov 2013. I can't wait to read about your trip.
Thanks!!
 
Next episode
Soldier Meadows to High Rock Canyon


We drove north along the Soldier Meadows Road as a dust storm began to fill the playa with dust.
We had been warned about crossing the playa further north at Wheeler Reservoir where the water crossing was described as "three feet deep".

Another option we had discussed was following the Applegate Trail along the eastern boundary of the BR playa. Looking at the dust blowing from the SW towards that edge, we were glad we were on the western side of things.

Borrow pits were spaced every mile or two. I assume they have often needed to fill in washouts. Once in a while there was a side road to a ranch. What a spartan life it must have been out in the great beyond.
https://www.lighthawkphoto.com/Pers...ber-Black-Rock-to-Surprise-Valley/i-D6dF5FV/A


We got to Mud Meadow Reservoir where the Applegate trail joins the main road hearing north. Suddenly we were in Soldier Meadows and passed the cutoff to High Rock Lake. I put the RAM in reverse and drove backwards using my new rear camera. The OEM camera is on the tailgate, so this add on is attached just below the camper door. It plugs right in and I have the upgraded factory 8" monitor, thanks to Ramblin Chet's advice here on WTW.

I had spent some time on Google Earth, cross referencing with CalTopo scanned topo maps locating a few more springs I wanted to check out. We found two new spots, including one with a swimming pool ladder.




There must have been some carrion in the brush. As we drove out to the main trail a golden eagle, some ravens and another large raptor all flew up. By the time I got my camera out of the backseat they were mostly gone.

https://www.lighthawkphoto.com/Pers...ber-Black-Rock-to-Surprise-Valley/i-q7JsWds/A

I also hiked back to some very hot sources, feeding streams, while SR kept Callie safe. Dogs and hot water are a bad combination. Later we went up a hill to a concrete picnic table with a trail to a hot pool that would fit a dozen people. I don't think that's a secret to anyone who goes to visit Soldier Meadows.


The winds were blowing hard as we walked back from our last soak, drying us immediately. I joked that the rocks on the concrete picnic table were to keep it from blowing away. I had pointed the truck into the wind, and we could barely pull the doors open. A storm was approaching, and a phalanx of clouds was moving in.

We continued up toward High Rock Lake, passing a yellow jeep at the Fly Canyon access. Later we talked to the gentleman, and he recommended the hike into the canyon to see large erosion pockets. His jeep had been left with all the windows wide open in the high winds. Later we saw he had a small dog, so maybe he left his dog behind for the hike.

We've visited the cabins at High Rock Lake before, so we pressed onward to the entrance of High Rock Canyon. BLM has designated four dispersed campsites within the traverse of the wilderness.

For travelers who want to run this trail, I don't recommend wet conditions, as the mud is very gooey like many volcanic soils.

IMPORTANT :
High Rock Canyon Road is closed each year between the end of chukar hunting season (around February 1st) until the second weekend in May to minimize human disturbance on nesting raptors and lambing bighorn sheep.


The road was quite brushy and there are some mandatory water crossings. There are long narrow stretches for only one vehicle width. Fortunately we had one other traveler going the same direction, the guy in the yellow jeep. My new truck got some pinstripes, or as some have suggested, I broke it in.

Scenery was stunning. This is not the brushy section.
https://www.lighthawkphoto.com/Pers...ber-Black-Rock-to-Surprise-Valley/i-LnB5Qwb/A

We had seen a cave shown on the map, and stopped to take a peek. It looks like there's been fires inside for thousands of years.

https://www.lighthawkphoto.com/Pers...ber-Black-Rock-to-Surprise-Valley/i-ZjZSW9B/A


I had thought we might go as far as Pole Camp, where Pole Canyon and High Rock Canyon converge, but the wind had roughed up my eyes and I was ready for a break. I suggested we turn off to check out Conlon Camp and SR readily agreed. We were greeted by a bunch of cattle. The first we had seen in the area.

https://www.lighthawkphoto.com/Pers...ber-Black-Rock-to-Surprise-Valley/i-MmPDFbP/A

Getting into camp a bit early gave us time to fire up the Zodi and get some hot showers.

https://www.lighthawkphoto.com/Pers...ber-Black-Rock-to-Surprise-Valley/i-xsWnkWx/A

We could smell the rain coming, and then a rainbow burst into view.
I can't tell you the joy rain brings us parched Californians!

https://www.lighthawkphoto.com/Pers...ber-Black-Rock-to-Surprise-Valley/i-MdRncKW/A

https://www.lighthawkphoto.com/Pers...ber-Black-Rock-to-Surprise-Valley/i-NprwGmn/A
FYI: The notch in the canyon to the left of the truck is the first section of HRC we had just traversed.

Later in bed we enjoyed listening to the rattle of raindrops on our roof. I had stashed our chairs under the truck, and it rained much of the night.

Next episode:
High Rock Canyon to Steven's Camp and beyond
 
Mighty Dodge Ram said:
Yes, please! Very interested in hearing how your full size did in High Rock Cyn. The Colorado Crew I occasionally run with had a similar trip planned several years ago, but we postponed due to a very wet Spring in the area. This trip remains high on my list.
Next episode begins to tell the story, but feel free to PM me for more gory details, MDR
 
Nice! Beautiful country!

My guess on your large raptor is an almost mature golden eagle. Notice the longer secondary flight feathers that make a curve on the wing trailing edge. That will be straighter when the bird is mature.
 
Boy Andy, following this thread sure brings back allot of memories and adventures I had in that country in the 80's and early 90's when I was part of the BLM inventory, monitoring and planning staff trying to get the sheep out the High Rock/Little High Rock area so it and all those resources could be protected and the Big Horn Sheep reintroduced. You talk about Public Land management, it seemed like every interest group there was (from Wild horse Anne, to ATV groups, grazing permit holders, ect) had to have their say and more and back then, most of the groups would not talk to one another, let alone agree on anything.

This is where I learned one of the secrets of Land Management from our old and wise District Manager-he got so tired of every one yelling at reach other that he loaded every one into a bunch of BLM rigs with food and booze, took 'em out to Stevens Camp, dumped then off for a week with no way out, and said "give me a plan". It was our job, to answer questions and drive them around. It worked, when you eat ,drink, wash dishes with each other, ya get to know people and maybe even agree on somethings. And they came up with a plan(s) or two but it still took a negative mineral report and several more years before they were approved by DC, and that wonderful place protected and yet still kept open to the public.

That was along time ago, so sorry if I got off your trip report but I spent allot time there , driving that old BLM Dodge Power Wagon up and down those canyons, hiking and camping out there or staying at Stevens Camp and that wonderful old wood burning stove-just me and the dog trying to implement some of those plans. Those roads beat up your rigs , but after a while you learned the tricks of driving there (or walking out allot when you got stuck). Favorite place ,Grassy Canyon and those wonderful wagon ruts-worst sleeping at Conlon Camp with all the mice.

From what I hear since they made it a NCA, they have added some more rules out there-I still remember our lead land planner saying that after all our work they would give it to the Park Service but that has not happened -so what are a few extra rules to keep that place public so we can enjoy it. I have not been back up there for over 30 years, but I maybe one day I'll go back one more time.


Smoke
 
Smokecreek1 said:
Boy Andy, following this thread sure brings back allot of memories and adventures I had in that country in the 80's and early 90's when I was part of the BLM inventory, monitoring and planning staff trying to get the sheep out the High Rock/Little High Rock area so it and all those resources could be protected and the Big Horn Sheep reintroduced. You talk about Public Land management, it seemed like every interest group there was (from Wild horse Anne, to ATV groups, grazing permit holders, ect) had to have their say and more and back then, most of the groups would not talk to one another, let alone agree on anything.

This is where I learned one of the secrets of Land Management from our old and wise District Manager-he got so tired of every one yelling at reach other that he loaded every one into a bunch of BLM rigs with food and booze, took 'em out to Stevens Camp, dumped then off for a week with no way out, and said "give me a plan". It was our job, to answer questions and drive them around. It worked, when you eat ,drink, wash dishes with each other, ya get to know people and maybe even agree on somethings. And they came up with a plan(s) or two but it still took a negative mineral report and several more years before they were approved by DC, and that wonderful place protected and yet still kept open to the public.

That was along time ago, so sorry if I got off your trip report but I spent allot time there , driving that old BLM Dodge Power Wagon up and down those canyons, hiking and camping out there or staying at Stevens Camp and that wonderful old wood burning stove-just me and the dog trying to implement some of those plans. Those roads beat up your rigs , but after a while you learned the tricks of driving there (or walking out allot when you got stuck). Favorite place ,Grassy Canyon and those wonderful wagon ruts-worst sleeping at Conlon Camp with all the mice.

From what I hear since they made it a NCA, they have added some more rules out there-I still remember our lead land planner saying that after all our work they would give it to the Park Service but that has not happened -so what are a few extra rules to keep that place public so we can enjoy it. I have not been back up there for over 30 years, but I maybe one day I'll go back one more time.


Smoke

Smoke, your history with this special place is very welcome here. Feel free to chime in with anything that comes up for you.
We'll be visiting Steven's Camp in our next episode.

Conlon Camp no longer has any structures, other than a fallen over outhouse out in the wet meadow where the road crosses Mahogany Creek. We did spot some caves back there and someone has done a large amount of digging. I can only hope it wasn't "pot diggers".
 
Wandering Sagebrush said:
Nice! Beautiful country!

My guess on your large raptor is an almost mature golden eagle. Notice the longer secondary flight feathers that make a curve on the wing trailing edge. That will be straighter when the bird is mature.
I appreciate your birding knowledge, Steven!
 
Ronin said:
I always thought it'd be a blast to launch rockets out on the playa. I did High Rock Nov 2013. I can't wait to read about your trip.
Thanks!!
Was thru the area two weeks ago with a pilot friend and the FAA had a temp flight restriction for the area due to the rockets. The flight restriction went to 80,000 feet!
 

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