Ceiling lift boards

[JaSAn]

I have an older (1977) Grandby in which a PO replaced the ceiling with .200" plywood; no lift boards (i.e. the boards you push on to lift the roof).

Would someone be so kind to explain to me how the lift boards at attached to the ceiling? My fear is that if I just screw into the aluminum frame, the tubes will tear as the roof flexes. Roof bows about 1 1/2 inches up when lifting in the front.

I have 2 100W Renogy panels on the front (=~33 lbs.) and I use a speaker jack to lift the roof. I am currently using a padded 30 x 4 x 1/2" board attached to the jack, but that is cumbersome to use and store.

Thanks,
jim

 

[camper101]

Since nobody else (who actually knows what they're talking about) has chimed in, I'll tell you that my lifting board is just screwed in to the roof frame on my 2012 Eagle.

If you look at these images, you'll see where the screws are on the lifting board -- the dark/black things on the board (his camper is a 2012 or newer Finch I believe).

 

[ski3pin]

............................ how the lift boards at attached to the ceiling?

Six screws into the aluminum framing for each board.

 

[JaSAn]

Thank you, gentlemen, for your replies.

Camper101 - the pictures you linked to show me what I need to know.

jim

 

[ckent323]

I have been thinking (oh no!)

The Pop up panels are flat and lightweight but completely obscure and block access to the canvas region behind them. Further the older "plywood" panels degrade with time and there are many campers out there that need one or both panels replaced. The area behind the panels gets condensation that is hard and almost impossible to reach to wipe up. That condensation leads to mold and degradation of the canvas. Further, although not as big an issue is limited access to the wires that run behind the panels.

I think a two piece X braced open metal or even composite material frame with solid rails at the attachment points top, bottom and middle as well as the sides might work. Not sure if this can be done cheaper than the new panels FMC makes or not.

I have not yet looked at the loads in the various orientations (opening and fully opened) but I expect that the design will need to resist shear and twisting and compression, of course, as well as retain a thin cross section. I have a close friend who is a retired Mechanical Engineer and I am going to see if I can get him interested in helping me come up with something.

I have a 1984 Keystone that needs new end panels and canvas which has caused me to think about this. I have been unsuccessful trying to sell it since no one seems to want it with those issues and the cost of new canvas and end panels to put it in better condition is painfully high. So maybe using it as a test bed to come up with my own improvements is a good use for it until I can find someone to take it off my hands (I can't bear to think about taking to the dump as my wife has requested more than once.

;-)

Regards,

Craig

BTW: We have a 2009 Keystone that we now use in lieu of the 1984 Keystone.

 

[Dusty Roads]

I was in the same position (I think) as the OP. My Grandby is a late 70s or early 80s. My lift panels were homemade 1/4" plywood, done by the previous owner. There was a hinge at the bottom only. A real pain to lift the top even with nothing on it. I ordered one lift panel thinking I needed at least one. I ended up not using it as I was in a time crunch before a trip to Wyoming.

I read all of the lifter helper thingy threads and figured what the heck!. I installed 4 lifters on the outside and called it good. Camped for a week in Wyoming on a hunting trip and had no problems. I did take 4 pieces of PVC pipe (1") cut to fit "just in case", but never used them. I did not encounter high winds or storms, but I think the lifters would have held regardless.

I am now trying to convince myself to install the lift panels.

YMMV

Dusty Roads

 

[craig333]

Curious to see what your mechanical engineer friends says. I'd love to know how they came up with the idea originally. Some pretty clever guys.