Fitting a FWC Eagle to Full Size truck Ideas/Opinions?

[knoxswift]

So, my Tacoma has finally hit 210000+ miles, its starting to get a bit tired.
It's time for me to look at new trucks. I'm very much considering a full size truck.

I have a FWC Eagle that I'd wish to keep and modify to fit a full size truck. I know it will need to be raised up. I'm trying to think of ideas to do this.

My best idea so far was to build a Gray Water Holding take to the bottom of the Eagle?

I found this RV tank on-line: https://www.plastic-mart.com/product/958/20-gallon-rv-holding-tank-24h

I could potentially pull off the cross supports on the bottom of the Eagle, Mount this tank to the bottom with some type of adhesive then build a box frame around the tank to give the Eagle the added height and support to the tank and to fit a full size truck.

I'm posting here to ask opinions? Anyone good fabrication or Camper Builds, if they think this would be a good solution or if it would compromise mounting the camper to the truck, it would definitely need longer turnbuckles mounted differently to the full size truck. But since the truck would have a steel bed I could drill holes anywhere that is needed for the mount points unlike in the Tacoma.

Once I have the Eagle high enough I can figure out secondary options for the gaps on the sides. One thing is that the gap on the side leaves enough room to run hose or piping to the Gray Tank...then I can figure out what to do to add some storage or something in those gaps if they are large enough for anything?

The one cool thing about an Eagle in the full size I would quite possibly be able to keep the tailgate on the truck and just close it around the camper.

Thanks in advance for Opinions.

 

[kmcintyre]

I did it and love it. Just raised it with a 2x4" platform and built some side access doors that lock (out of wood so not that secure) along the sides in the bed. I like that it's a bit more aerodynamic behind the cab of the truck. I have the 6.5' bed so can't kee the tailgate on.

 

[Wandering Sagebrush]

My only critical observation would be the tailgate. At my age, my flexibility is a thing of the past, and bending to get in and out of the camper would be an issue.

 

[knoxswift]

Thanks for the comments.

It's good to know 2x4s worked so my thoughts of adding a 5inch tank under the camper is close to being the correct size. Also the side compartments with wood doors sounds just fine...

And yes, getting in and out flexibility is a concern but my current tacoma is lifted so I'm kind of used to a higher truck. I think actually my tacoma is hire than the full sized trucks I'm considering, LOL!

 

[kmcintyre]

Thanks for the comments.

It's good to know 2x4s worked so my thoughts of adding a 5inch tank under the camper is close to being the correct size. Also the side compartments with wood doors sounds just fine...

And yes, getting in and out flexibility is a concern but my current tacoma is lifted so I'm kind of used to a higher truck. I think actually my tacoma is hire than the full sized trucks I'm considering, LOL!

I wanted to add storage under my Eagle but the cost to do something in alum. was too expensive and with 2x4" there really isn't much space. We added some steps to the hitch to help us get into our camper. It must be 3' off the ground (20" rims, etc.).

 

[Wandering Sagebrush]

The lift/height of the tailgate is not the issue for me. It’s standing on the tailgate and bending low enough to go in through the camper door. Exiting would be a bit easier, assuming I didn’t fall off the tailgate when backing out.



On our last trip to Chaco Canyon, I needed to back through each of these doorways.

 

[klahanie]

A few thoughts ...

Specific tank: - 30 x 40" is a pretty big span considering we're not supposed to walk on an unsupported floor so I'd consider doubling up the floor thickness.
- depending on the intake location I'd look at the possibility of hooking up the tank after the camper is mounted, so the tank could sit on the truck bed rather than be hung from the camper. Might be easier to fab.
- 20gal is a lot of grey water.
- how and where would you empty it ? It might take some time. Will you miss the morning ritual of surreptitiously emptying the waste bucket behind a bush
- I'd be happier spending the $s on a low profile water tank and converting the present in-camper tank space to storage (layout pemitting)

Alternative: - I like the clean look of a hidden tank. We use an inexpensive collapsible water carrier placed between the camper and camper deck folding sides. The hose that used to run from the outer wall to the ground is rerouted down though the camper wing and straight into said container. We usually have only a gallon or two in the morning but can break camp without emptying if desired. Might there be room to do something similar with your raised set up ?

Riser Platform: - Should be doable with 2x4s, 2x6s or other material. Turnbuckles can be lengthened with chain and quick links. If you're confident enough I suggest to buy the truck, test fit the camper and then determine construction/function.
- we have a trundle drawer under the truck deck. It's only ~5" deep but very handy for storing boonie tools (full sized shovel, matock, axe, loppers etc) and other junk. If I was building a platform for a PU I'd look at similar storage for long items. If that meant running some of the lumber lengthwise rather than the more common side to side and/or doubling up of the floor thickness so be it. Wouldn't need a drawer for loose items per se, might find a tote, trough, half pipe etc. Again, with the camper up on blocks in the bed you could decide the layout best for you.
- with 5"s I might be tempted to cut into the floor in places to deepen the storage inside the camper or lowering the batteries for eg. But I know that's easier said than done.

 

[knoxswift]

Klahanie,

Thanks for the ideas!

I was also thinking make the tank a base and put it in the truck first then camper on top. That would be easier to fabricate. Also, I was thinking about how high I would have to lift the camper. I need to see if the jacks I have can go high enough to get the camper in with some kind of 5" base or not. I'm thinking that might end up being the biggest problem I'd need longer jacks?
Also, I'm not sure of the weight it would end up being. I would think at least 90+lbs. The tank itself is 70. So tank with some kind of supportive frame ends .up being pretty heavy for lifting into the truck but not really for the payload of the truck since that's why I'm looking at a full size the extra payload.

I would probably empty it at dump stations when the campsite or RV park I stop at has one. The camper currently can hold 26 Gallons of water so I figured 20Gal was a good size to remind me I also need to fill up soon. (Tank+Hot water heater = 26 gallons I believe). As well as 20 is the narrowest tank I can find.

I think I like your storage draws idea? Would you have a Link? If it's narrow about 5" that might be the perfect solution?

Good ideas, Thanks! I hope to be purchasing a truck in the next 4 months or so...so trying to sketch out some ideas before purchase but you are absolutely right I'll probably have to modify the ideas once I really own the truck...if I can make myself leave Toyota...I really like my Toyota...

 

[Kolockum]

I am not a big fan of turn buckles so my first thought is bolt the platform to the bed and then bolt the camper to the platform. This way you will not have to worry about extra long turn buckles shifting and can use existing bolt holes in the bed. If your making the platform out of wood then you can create a very strong structure (enough to bolt the camper to) with metal brackets found at any hardware store. Example is https://www.acehardware.com/departments/building-supplies/walls-floors-and-ceiling/joist-hangers/5607692

Also you can create a lip around the top of the platform to create a cradle for the camper to sit in to further prevent it from shifting. Some plywood on the sides would fit the bill and give the whole structure some sheer strength. I would make the platform a little bigger ~1/2" each side to allow for some playroom when loading the camper. If you wanted to get a little fancy you could raise the front lip on the platform several inches to create a positive stop for the camper as you back in. Basically when loading the camper you back up until the camper bumps into the front of the platform, then all you have to do is align it side by side as you lower it.

 

[klahanie]

Good ideas above from Kolockum.

Don't have a good pic of our trundle drawer. It's a custom job, something like this. Was mentioned for it's usefullness.
https://www.duratray.net.au/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/Colour-Coded-rolla-drawer.png

I know some guys have made wood DIY camper platforms with storage. Maybe try searching 'sleeping platform truck bed' or 'truck bed slide out drawer'.

I was thinking something simple without rollers or expensive HD drawer sliders like this ...
https://www.truckcampermagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Northern-Lite-basement-storage-solution.jpg
This has a big advantage of being fairly dust and weather sealed - something to think about ...


'course if the tank is going at the rear, there might be a conflict. Speaking of grey water tanks, some have made them from PVC pipe. ..
https://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/topic/9596-do-it-yourself-onboard-gray-water-storage/


Another issue might be having a large space between the truck box rails and the camper wings. I think I've seen a WTW pic of someone putting a PVC pipe in that space. You might want to fill any large gap for esthetics.

AND, you're right, the jacks might be too short (I'm thinking cinder blocks) and you might need jack bracket extensions.

So, yeah, not so simple

 

[CoreyTrevor]

Don't know if it helps, but I'm getting ready to put my Eagle on my 06 fullsize Dodge and got a really helpful photo video from Stan that showed what looked like mostly Eagles on various fullsize trucks.

I also read a number of posts and I believe one from FWC that you only need 2" of clearance for the cabover.

 

[knoxswift]

I am not a big fan of turn buckles so my first thought is bolt the platform to the bed and then bolt the camper to the platform. This way you will not have to worry about extra long turn buckles shifting and can use existing bolt holes in the bed. If your making the platform out of wood then you can create a very strong structure (enough to bolt the camper to) with metal brackets found at any hardware store. Example is https://www.acehardware.com/departments/building-supplies/walls-floors-and-ceiling/joist-hangers/5607692

Also you can create a lip around the top of the platform to create a cradle for the camper to sit in to further prevent it from shifting. Some plywood on the sides would fit the bill and give the whole structure some sheer strength. I would make the platform a little bigger ~1/2" each side to allow for some playroom when loading the camper. If you wanted to get a little fancy you could raise the front lip on the platform several inches to create a positive stop for the camper as you back in. Basically when loading the camper you back up until the camper bumps into the front of the platform, then all you have to do is align it side by side as you lower it.

Those are some good ideas! I like the bracket idea as well as a lip...I'm going to put that on my list of things to spec out once I know which full size I'm going to buy. It's up between the Ram 1500 and Chevy. Both have different size beds which would alter any building I would do, but these 2 ideas are good they are universal.
I'm not sure about bolting to the actual bed just because I wish to use the PU as a PU when I don't have the camper in...so I think Bolt down the platform might be just too much of a hassle. I know in my tacoma the 2 bars that are permanently bolted always seem to get In my way when I am using the PU for something...and they are just bolt down bars. I was considering I could pull those out of the Tacoma and use those somehow but again in a full size bed they would just get in the way too?
I guess something to think about...

 

[knoxswift]

Don't know if it helps, but I'm getting ready to put my Eagle on my 06 fullsize Dodge and got a really helpful photo video from Stan that showed what looked like mostly Eagles on various fullsize trucks.

I also read a number of posts and I believe one from FWC that you only need 2" of clearance for the cabover.

Thanks this video is helpful!

 

[knoxswift]

PVC pipe gray water tank is also an idea to use up the side space over the wheel wells. I'm going to have to go to some dealers and measure some full size truck beds to get a real idea what I'm dealing with. If a under camper gray water tank or if the PVC over the wheel well would be a better idea...thanks!