Great Basin National Park Off the Beaten Track

Basin Deranged

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Feb 3, 2015
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166
Location
Point Reyes Station, California
N and I did a bit of exploring on our recent trip to Great Basin National Park. Our first couple of days we spent doing the usual things that one does in GBNP; cave tour, Baker Creek hike, Alpine Lakes and Bristlecone Grove hike and pawing through the books at the visitor's center where we bought the Sibley Tree Guide which we put to good use on the rest of the trip.

The park was beautiful, as always. The Mountain Mahogany was loaded with seeds.

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The Utah Junipers were also loaded with "berries."

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The area around the Baker Creek campground was loaded with fresh Pinyon Pine cones and the harvest was in full swing.

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On Saturday and Sunday there were 50 or so people, mostly with Utah plates, harvesting the cones. They used rakes and fruit pickers to get at the upper cones and all wore long gloves to protect themselves from the sticky pitch. The Pinyon Pines only have abundant harvests every few years so the pine pickers have to move around from year to year to find that years bumper crop. The Park allows them to pick "5 gunny sacks per family." At first it seemed strange to me that the Park Service would allow this harvest. But I then reflected on the fact that humans have been picking these pine cones for their nutritious seeds for centuries. Sometimes those of us who are not Native American easily forget that humans are indeed a longstanding part of this ecosystem. I assure you there were a lot of cones left at the tops of the trees and on the less-accessible slopes for the Pinyon Jays and the squirrels.

We neglected to figure out the identity of this plant that was in bright yellow bloom on road cuts and in disturbed areas all across Nevada. We also did not get around to exchanging names with the busy flying creatures who frequented the blossoms. If you know the name of either the plant or the insect please let us know.

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We ventured into the area along Baker Creek below "Grey Cliffs" where we found these pictographs.

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I won't reveal any more of their location than Gretchen Baker reveals in her guide to GBNP. She describes their location as being in the narrows of Baker Creek.

continued...
 
Kious Basin

There is a dirt road that continues past the Pole Canyon trailhead, crossing a stream and descending into an area known as the Kious Basin, an area of large granitic rocks in a Pinyon / Juniper forest.

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We chose, however, to access the area from the bottom, heading west from Highway 487 about a half mile south of Baker at a very prominent steel water tank. The first couple of miles are very nicely graded but I would recommend 4 wheel drive as the road gets steeper and looser. We found a campsite with fine views in all directions. We didn't see another person in the time that we were there. We had a fine time climbing on the rocks and exploring a nearby spring.

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This is definitely on our list of places to return for some off-trail exploration of the nearby caves and canyons.

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Very timely post. At the moment I'm scheduled for four days off next week. GB is my intended destination.
 
Strawberry Creek

At the north end of the park, a few miles off Highway 6/50, is the Strawberry Creek area. This area is accessed by a very smooth graded gravel road that I wouldn't think twice about taking a passenger car on. There is a decent, new campground along the road in a forest of Pinyon Pines. While all of the campsites in the central part of the park were full, partly because of an astronomy gathering, this campground was empty. We were the only ones there.

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But the real jewel of this area is beyond the trailhead at the end of the road. From this trailhead we explored the Osceola Ditch, an 18-mile long hand-dug ditch from the late 1800s that fed water for hydraulic mining to the town of Osceola. There is a trail that goes from this trailhead, along the route of the ditch, to the Wheeler Peak road in the center of the park.

The next day we hiked another trail from the same trailhead up to the Strawberry Divide. The views were fine!

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Groves of Quaking Aspens along the way.

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The Strawberry area is known for its elk herd. This was the rutting season when each male, resplendent in huge antlers, claims his own turf and wanders about making an eerie whistling/bugling sound proclaiming his territory and, presumably, trying to attract a girl friend. We knew that the elk would come down from the mountains for water just before dawn so we made a point of being at the trailhead, where the Strawberry Creek runs through a large open grassy area, in the evening. We were rewarded with the sight of a big bull elk making his way down the mountain to the creek. The hillside was dotted with Pinyon Pine trees, so we would wait until the elk was out of sight behind a pine tree before we scampered up the trail towards a spot that would intercept his path. We repeated this peculiar process 3 or 4 times. He watered for several minutes then took a close look around and spotted us in our bright blue rain jackets a hundred yards or so away and headed back the way he had come.

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Great write-up on Nevada's national park. We were there in summer of 2002 and had the place to ourselves. There were only 2 or 3 campers in Wheeler Peak and it was just us and another couple on the cave tour.

We went back this July and I was shocked to find it had been 'discovered'. Campgrounds were full, parking lots were full, tours were full, trail heads were full. Ahh progress. But everyone was congregated at the visitor center and up the Wheeler Peak road. Probably spend some time in the back country next time.

Hoping to head back sometime soon and chase the Bonneville Cutthroats a bit. Might try basing out of the Strawberry area next time.

Thanks for the write-up. The Bristlecone Pines make me feel young.
 
Thanks Vic.
I saw many small trout in Strawberry Creek; Bonneville Cutthroats I presume since they were planted there several years ago. It was a small stream (two to three feet wide in most places) when we visited but appeared to have a very healthy population of fish in the 5" to 9" range.

Alas I didn't have a Nevada fishing license.
 
Wonderful TR Basin. I went to GBNP three years ago and had a great time. We even summited Wheeler Peak, where the view went on for miles. The wind on WP was incredible and there were even numerous little low rock "bunkers" on the way to the summit where a climber could take a brief respite from the gale.

I have a love/hate relationship with the rabbitbrush. It's the only plant I'm allergic to and plays hell with me when it's doing its thing, but yet I have a lot of it on my property and I leave it alone because it's a very beautiful desert plant.
 
Looks like a good trip. We visited GBNP in the winter a few years ago- it snowed while we were there and they closed the park so we didn't get to see anything. We plan to return some day. Thanks for the photos and report.
 
Enjoyed your TR! Apparently it's a good year for the Piñons. There were many producing at el Rio Grande del Norte National Monument, too. It's been too long since I've been to GBNP. Thanks for reminding me how special it is.
 
I swung by Great Basin NP earlier this spring and really regretted not being able to spend much time there. Awesome place. Definitely planning on going back some time.
 
As you have found, there are wonderful out of the way spots in Great basin National Park to discover. Very nice, thank you!
 
Mt. Washington

On the west side of the park there is a dirt road that climbs out of Spring Valley to an elevation of 11,300 feet on the flanks of Mt. Washington. Since the peak of Mt. Washington is shown as 11,658 feet the road gets awfully close to the top. Our plan was to see if we could drive to the top of the road and make the short hike from there.

We camped next to an abandoned mine on a short spur road about 2 1/2 miles in. The views, again, were fine.

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The road is 2wd for about the first 4 miles to the Mt. Wheeler Mine. From there the road gets steeper, with lots of loose rock, and some tight hairpin turns, 4wd only. I would recommend airing down your tires for better traction on this section.

It was raining the morning we drove up the mountain. At the top of the road the wind was blowing hard enough to make it difficult to open the truck door and visibility was very bad. We decided against the hike to the top since, even if we didn't get blown off the mountain we wouldn't see a thing. Oh well, next time.

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A Side Trip to Ophir

On our way back to California we thought we would spend a night a Berlin Ichthyosaur State Park since we had never been there. My map showed a 4wd road over Ophir Pass that would save us a lot of distance with the added bonus of a visit to Ophir. I guess that the sign at the beginning of the road should have told us something.

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As noted in previous trip reports the road up to Ophir climbs a narrow canyon made narrower by vegetation that crowds into the road from both sides. To add further character to the road it crosses the creek with which it shares the canyon more than a half dozen times. 4wd is a necessity but aside from many branches scraping against the side of the truck the trip to Ophir in a light drizzle was fairly uneventful.

Ophir itself is spectacular. See some of the previous trip reports by others for more photos.

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The road heading up the canyon from Ophir is much less travelled than the road below Ophir. Within a mile and a half the Aspens growing into the road were so dense and low that we would either have to spend an awful lot of time cutting limbs or we would have to retrace our steps. We retreated and got into camp at Berlin Ichthyosaur quite late that night!

So a few surprises and setbacks but all-in-all a fine trip.

Thank you all for your many kind words. This is my first trip report and I do appreciate any suggestions for how to improve future reports.
 
We were wondering at the start of your trip story if you had maybe ventured up the west side to Mount Washington, an item still on our list, and you did! Wind, cold, and clouds, just another day in the mountains, a little more fun than usual. And the road past Ophir, we've walked it twice to the top. What a nice adventure and we greatly enjoyed you sharing "getting off the beaten path". Thanks.
 
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