Here is how to prevent getting locked out of camper

BillTheHiker

Senior Member
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Boise, ID
As a followup to my prior post on the busted door latch:
https://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/topic/20655-add-me-to-the-list-of-those-with-a-busted-door-latch/

what I found was the linkage pin for the deadbolt had popped out. I never lock either the deadbolt or the latch handle and use only the large, silver deadbolt. After removing the door I found that all the screws for the latch were tight, the four mortorq screws in the black mounting plate as well as the two phillips screws for the internal cover plate, yet the linkage pin managed to bounce out. This allowed the deabolt to freely slide and road vibration eventually caused it to slide into the strike plate, thereby locking the door. I drove this rig four years and on a lot of rough roads, but the worst vibration was the day this happened on a very badly washboarded road.

So what I did was remove the deadbolt, the linkage pin, and the red lever handle, as shown in the photo. It is a very simple, quick job and I would have done when I bought the camper if I had known. There have been posts recommending that the screws should be kept tight, and in most cases that is likely adequate, but not in mine, so the bullet proof way to prevent this is remove the deadbolt.

The other thing I noticed is that should one of the phillips screws holding the cover plate become loose and fall out, it could possibly bounce around and lodge in the latch handle bolt or the spring, thereby preventing the latch from opening. I plan to use loktite on those screws.

gallery_7166_1147_20155.jpg
 
Never having never used the latch bolt pictured above, I was unaware of the issue. I simply used the dead bolt when locking the camper. Well, looks like I have something to check on before the next trip. Thanks!
 
Karlton, yeah I was doing same thing because others had warned about the latch locks, BUT it sill vibrated loose. It is very easy to remove it, and you can apply loctite to the two screws for the silver plate while you are in there. To be clear, the latch assembly has two key holes and I removed the bolt operated by the upper key hole.
 
Thanks for sharing this.

I have never liked that deadbolt. I never use it and don't usually carry the key, but have been concerned about it bouncing locked or my youngest child locking it with me outside the camper.

I took a few minutes and removed it today.
 
It is my understanding that of the two locks on the RV entry lock panel, the deadbolt unit has the most unique key. The one for the handle has only 5 or so unique keys. I recall a thread some time ago that this was so that the RV sales team could open any camper on the sales lot with only a handful of keys rather than having to go back to the office for a specific key when a customer showed interest in a particular unit.

This would imply that it is important to lock your camper’s main house type deadbolt rather than just the handle lock. Something else to consider when camping.

Paul
 
PaulT said:
It is my understanding that of the two locks on the RV entry lock panel, the deadbolt unit has the most unique key. The one for the handle has only 5 or so unique keys. I recall a thread some time ago that this was so that the RV sales team could open any camper on the sales lot with only a handful of keys rather than having to go back to the office for a specific key when a customer showed interest in a particular unit.

This would imply that it is important to lock your camper’s main house type deadbolt rather than just the handle lock. Something else to consider when camping.

Paul

I have a key that opens 90% of all motorhome style locks. We have lots of Mohos at work so we all have these keys. Most of the locks on the other outside compartments...storage box, etc...are likely all keyed the same. It's the smaller key...starts with CH...we all have those too.

The dead bolt is all I use and what I feel to be the safest. Any locksmith in any town can get you into your camper if needs be.
 
The dead bolt is all I use and what I feel to be the safest. Any locksmith in any town can get you into your camper if needs be.”


Not always in the manner you expect. Airstream trailers are known for secure locks. We have friends who locked themselves out of theirs at Furnace Creek. The only locksmith that would come out was from Shoshone. Try as he might, he could not open the lock.

He then asked if there was a skylight. So nimbly to the trailer top he went with a scraper and screwdriver. Off came the skylight, in went the locksmith to unlock the door and let D&D in and reclaim their keys. Back in place went the skylight.

Several days later, they went to Pahrump for a few days in an RV Park to cleanup. Arriving in a substantial rain, they entered the trailer to discover no skylight and water all over.

The moral of the story... keep spare keys outside the trailer, and accessible.

Someday over a campfire, I’ll share the story of D&D and the jack knifed Airstream at Hickison Summit. There are more, too.
 
Mine failed and locked me out. The key just spun. Two hours in St. George to get it drilled out by a kindly locksmith. So very lucky that we were near a town.
If you have not removed the latch bolt as shown above, take a lesson from me: Twenty minutes well spent.
 
I've got a 2022 Hawk and my lock looks different than the one in your picture. Anyone know if this would be an issue with my lock? Like others I never use it. I just use the main deadbolt.
]
52554934410_4e36018a36_w.jpg


And locked position....
52554003267_318ca38556_w.jpg
 
IDPaddler said:
I've got a 2022 Hawk and my lock looks different than the one in your picture. Anyone know if this would be an issue with my lock? Like others I never use it. I just use the main deadbolt.
]
52554934410_4e36018a36_w.jpg
We have a 2020 Grandby and our latch assembly looks just like yours, and the deadbolt mechanism still has the potential problem. If you unscrew the four screws shown in your photo and pull the latch plate off, there will be a second, smaller metal plate with two screws. If you remove those two screws and remove the plate you will see the deadbolt and problematic link to the lock lever. I ended up pulling out the link and deadbolt, but left the lever in place in case I would ever want to re-assemble it for some reason. Be careful when you pull off the smaller metal plate - when I did it, several of the parts fell out.

-Scott
 
heinphoto said:
We have a 2020 Grandby and our latch assembly looks just like yours, and the deadbolt mechanism still has the potential problem. If you unscrew the four screws shown in your photo and pull the latch plate off, there will be a second, smaller metal plate with two screws. If you remove those two screws and remove the plate you will see the deadbolt and problematic link to the lock lever. I ended up pulling out the link and deadbolt, but left the lever in place in case I would ever want to re-assemble it for some reason. Be careful when you pull off the smaller metal plate - when I did it, several of the parts fell out.

-Scott
Thanks Scott!
 
Thanks for the heads up on this potential problem. Although it’s never self locked in 20 years, I’m still going to disable the deadbolt feature tomorrow.

Like most of you I only use the large upper deadbolt. In fact I don’t even know if I still have the keys to the latch.

I was also able to have a locksmith change out the lock cylinder on the upper deadbolt to match my house key. Nice to have one less key on the chain
 
Went to remove the deadbolt on my 2003 Eagle and found the inner plate held on by some kind of rivets instead of screws. I guess the good news is they won’t shake loose, but no way to get to the deadbolt slide and linkage to remove. Anybody else have this?
 

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