INNO boat/canoe rollers

[mynxd]

Has anyone used the INNO 410 Canoe roller kit (or the INNO 420 Boat roller kit) for loading a canoe on the standard ATC/FWC boat/luggage rack? I have a 15' cedar strip and canvas canoe (60lbs dry, 70lbs wet) which I would like to put onto the rack single handed without having to climb onto a platform or ladder to get it on the rack. Is there anything else I should look at? I expect to use a small step stool or platform to adjust position and for tie downs,etc. Suggestions for loading would be appreciated.

Thanks, Grant

 

[Casa Escarlata Robles Too]

Has anyone used the INNO 410 Canoe roller kit (or the INNO 420 Boat roller kit) for loading a canoe on the standard ATC/FWC boat/luggage rack? I have a 15' cedar strip and canvas canoe (60lbs dry, 70lbs wet) which I would like to put onto the rack single handed without having to climb onto a platform or ladder to get it on the rack. Is there anything else I should look at? I expect to use a small step stool or platform to adjust position and for tie downs,etc. Suggestions for loading would be appreciated.

Thanks, Grant



Grant,I carry a 12' "old town" stillwater,fiberglass canoe on my ATC Bobcat. I use a track attached to the boat/luggage rack and have a 2" wheel on the front end of the canoe that rolls along the track to a set of stops on the front rack bar. Then on the middle bar I have some other stops that catch the gunnels and support the canoe. If you check the thread in the ATC group "canoe on bobcat" this might give you some ideas. If you can't get to the thread and want them let me know I'll post some pictures.
Frank

Grant ,the post is at the bottom of page #3 ,canoe on bobcat, of the ATC group.

 

[mynxd]

Thanks, Frank.........more food for thought. I'll have to wait till I get my camper home to pursue this. I'm expecting the angle for loading would prevent a bow mounted wheel from staying in the track. (combination of my height, camper height, and canoe length). I have lots of cedar planking that I can use for testing the rail idea when I get home with the new camper in late June.
Grant

 

[White Dog]

Hi Grant,

When I ordered our Grandby, I had FWC install the full length Yakima rails. These accept the same racks I use on the truck cap when I'm not carrying the FWC. On the front rack, I've installed Yakima's Boatloader which is simple sliding extension that fits onto the front rack. In use, I carry the canoe to the truck upside down in the normal portage-carry mode. I rest the bow of the canoe on the Boatloader then walk out from under the canoe. At this point, the canoe is effectively 'on' the front rack and just needs to be slid over. I then walk to the back and using the stool we normally use to get in and out of the camper, I lift the stern of the canoe up and onto the rear rack. Finally, I slide the bow over, slide the Boatloader back into the front rack and then tie down the canoe. The system works great and I've used it for years on the truck/cap and now the FWC. In fact, I find it much easier to load the canoe alone than have someone help me. However, it is only practical when the roof of the FWC is down. With the roof up, it's a bit of a stretch.

 

[Casa Escarlata Robles Too]

Hi Grant,

When I ordered our Grandby, I had FWC install the full length Yakima rails. These accept the same racks I use on the truck cap when I'm not carrying the FWC. On the front rack, I've installed Yakima's Boatloader which is simple sliding extension that fits onto the front rack. In use, I carry the canoe to the truck upside down in the normal portage-carry mode. I rest the bow of the canoe on the Boatloader then walk out from under the canoe. At this point, the canoe is effectively 'on' the front rack and just needs to be slid over. I then walk to the back and using the stool we normally use to get in and out of the camper, I lift the stern of the canoe up and onto the rear rack. Finally, I slide the bow over, slide the Boatloader back into the front rack and then tie down the canoe. The system works great and I've used it for years on the truck/cap and now the FWC. In fact, I find it much easier to load the canoe alone than have someone help me. However, it is only practical when the roof of the FWC is down. With the roof up, it's a bit of a stretch.


I like this idea but don't know whether I can adapt it for my use. Just quick thinking I could put an extension on the rear of the roof rack and still use my sliding method. Humm something to put my mind to. Thanks White Dog.
Frank

 

[Casa Escarlata Robles Too]

I just loaded the canoe onto the camper. The extra 5" in height didn't make much difference. My wife and I grab the canoe on each side a little forward of center. Than lift and place the front with it's wheel onto the rear cross bar of the rack. Than lifting the rear and sliding the canoe forward and placing the wheel into its channel. I am than able to slid it forward along the track until it hits the stops on the front of the camper rack. This has worked out so well and I feel it's the safest method for us. After the canoe is in place I use a short safety chain in the front attached through the canoe grab handle to the cross bar and ratchet type straps to hold it down. For the rear I had to make some stops that the canoe sits on top of as the front and rear sit directly on the rack cross bars. This leaves about 4" from the canoe gunnel to the front cross bar of the rear part of the rack. The stops just slid over the cross bar and thats where I attach the other ratchet type strap. I have used this method for many years and carried the canoe thousands of miles without any problem. The canoe can't slide side to side as the stops prevent that and the ratchet type straps snug it down to the rack. Aside from the track that the wheel on the front of the canoe rides in,the canoe is supported by each gunnel and the wheel. Making it have a three points of contact which makes it more stable. I think I could actually load it myself but it's easier and safer with help.This might be easier to see if you go to the thread canoe on bobcat in the ATC group at the bottom of page three.
White Dog I looked into your method,which is a good one but I don't have a way without a lot of mods to do that side bar. I have thought about using that on my escape when I carry the canoe there. I have the Yakima bars on the roof rails. I also use the "track" method on the escape it's great in the wind as the canoe doesn't get blown off the roof as easily.
Remember safe travels with things on the roof. Frank

 

[caseboy]

over on the alaskan forum, i posted a free boat rack if anyone is interested

wes