Kill switch kills shore power

[Escapepod]

The owner's manual states that shore power will continue to power the camper appliances, whether or not the silver "kill switch" is in the "in" or "out" position (this also is the case with my travel trailer). But when I push it in on the camper, the lights, etc. go out, and only come on when I pull the switch out. What could be causing this?

 

[longhorn1]

With the kill switch in the off position, you can charge the battery only. The kill switch has to be on for any camper electric to work.
(I stand corrected, my lights and appliances work). Stan should know.

 

[Escapepod]

With the kill switch in the off position, you can charge the battery only. The kill switch has to be on for any camper electric to work.

OK, but here's the language from the owner's manual, which seems to say the opposite:

"When the camper is plugged into 120V shore power or a generator, the silver 12v master switch can be in either the "IN" or "OUT" position to operate the appliances in your camper. However, if you would like to have your camper battery recharge from the 120V shore power electricity, the 12v master kill switch must be pulled "OUT" to allow for recharging of the auxiliary battery through the 30amp IOTA power converter (excludes empty shell models - my Grandby is NOT an empty shell model.)

 

[Stan@FourWheel]

I would say with most certainty that the fuse in the 30 amp IOTA power converter is blown.

If you have a newer FWC, and have the camper plugged into shore power, and the Master Kill Switch is pushed in (off), the camper should still power up.

The 12v kill switch only controls the 12v battery side of things.

Do a search for converter fuse on this forum and you will see how to change it.

 

[Escapepod]

Thanks, Stan. The 30amp main breaker lights up when I flick the breaker switch. The 15amp converter led doesn't light up. Is that consistent with your assessment? Just checked all fuses. None blown.

 

[pvstoy]

If the ac current (110 volt Ac) breaker is on and you still have the problem
Then Stan is suggesting the dc volt blade type fuse is blown that is mounted on the power converter.

 

[Escapepod]

Just checked the fuses (photo), and all are good. Where else should I look?

 

[pvstoy]

I'm at a airport traving and can't search. There is a fuse within the iota converter. Search for a post it will show you where and how to replace the 30 amp blade fuse

 

[Escapepod]

I opened the louvered panel that leads to the converter, but my inexperience and the limited visibility are damn intimidating! The converter is mounted upside down, and I can barely make out the mounting screws. Do I have to remove the converter to access the fuse? Yikes!

 

[fwctaco]

There is a blade fuse on the back (right side of the photo) of the converter. You should be able to reach it without removing the converter.

 

[Escapepod]

There is a blade fuse on the back (right side of the photo) of the converter. You should be able to reach it without removing the converter.

Thanks, fwctaco! Pulled it, but it seems intact:

 

[rando]

Test it to be sure - looks can be deceiving! You can also test your converter using a volt meter - with the kill switch in the on position the voltage in the camper should jump up to 13.xx V when the camper is plugged into shore power.

 

[Escapepod]

Test it to be sure - looks can be deceiving! You can also test your converter using a volt meter - with the kill switch in the on position the voltage in the camper should jump up to 13.xx V when the camper is plugged into shore power.

Just to be clear: with the kill switch in the "on" position, you mean pushed in, right? Because I get no lights, etc. when hooked to shore power and kill switch pushed in.

 

[Escapepod]

Dumb question: how do I test the fuse? And can I replace it with one of the 30amp backup fuses?

 

[Wandering Sagebrush]

Buy a digital multimeter and use the continuity function (ohms) to test a fuse. If it’s good, it should have very little resistance/ohms or report shorted. If bad, it will show open or a large ohm value.

Replace it with another like fuse. If you have backup fuses use them, but replace the spares.

 

[Escapepod]

Buy a digital multimeter and use the continuity function (ohms) to test a fuse. If it’s good, it should have very little resistance/ohms or report shorted. If bad, it will show open or a large ohm value.

Replace it with another like fuse. If you have backup fuses use them, but replace the spares.

OK, no resistance result. How do I test the converter?

 

[rando]

No resistance as in zero ohms? Or as in open circuit? It should be near zero ohms.

To test the converter, measure the voltage (any where in the 12V system, but at the battery is a safe bet) with the kill switch 'on' and the camper plugged into shore power. If the voltage begins to rise to 13.xx volts when plugged in, your converter is working.

 

[Escapepod]

Zero ohms on the original and backup fuses. With shore power connected, 12.6V on battery terminals, whether kill switch in or out. Is this just the battery reading? 110 v outlets show nothing, whether kill switch in or out. That suggests the converter is faulty.

 

[rando]

No - actually that suggests there is an issue in your 110V circuit, not your converter. If the converter were bad, the 110V outlets would still work, you just wouldn't see the battery voltage go up. If your 110V outlets are not working it is more likely that there is an issue up stream of your converter which is effecting both the converter AND the outlets.

Dumb question - are you sure the power outlet you are plugging into works?

 

[Wandering Sagebrush]

Is the converter plugged in? My converter plugs into a hidden internal 110VAC outlet that is supplied by shore power. Is there a circuit breaker that has tripped? My Bobcat has one that can be switched off.