Lift Points/hydraulic seals

kimosawboy

Advanced Member
Joined
Dec 5, 2016
Messages
44
Hello All.
New Alaskan owner here.
I have been wanting an Alaskan for quite a while now and was able to get a 10NCO that the previous owner had done a complete re-skin in Aluminum.
I have a couple of questions that I have not been able to find answers for, looking with the search on here as well as internet searches came up with nothing.
#1Lift points...Since the camper has been re-skinned I do not know the year... Don't know if that makes a difference to where I try to lift it from or not...It will be going on a flat deck Unimog, lots of room and no problem securing but is it OK to jack from the four corners, do corners need re-enforcing???? I have four hi-jacker camper jacks that I will be using.
#2 The lift cylinders use a type of automotive piston with a double piston washer cup, is this a one off or the norm???
If anyone can help me with the answers it would be appreciated...
Thanks in advance.
G Vavra
 
soooo....you have to lift on the lower half...which removes typical corner jacks from the conversation....using brackets from reico you can make adapters for the hijackers to lift vertically on the rieco brackets...it's been done a couple times and works well...hydraulic manual or electric

Lift cylinders?....in the camper or on the hijackers?
 
Thanks for your response Rusty.
I guess my question is more...I can lift from either the ''top '' section or the ''bottom'' sections do I need to reinforce anything??? I'm kinda assuming that most people lift from the ''top'' section as it seems everyone has a pick-up with sides. I will be passing on the Reico thing as I will just weld a bracket with a sleeve so I can just pin the legs in place when needed.The welded bracket will be thru bolted in place.
The piston question is for the interior lift cylinders.
THE second pic is of another Unimog with a set similar to what I envision.
G Vavra
 

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I have NEVER seen a lift from the top section (nor would I advise it)...all I have seen are lifts from the bottom section.

If you lift from the top section you will be lifting against the hydraulic suction of the rams ONLY (unless you install through pins on each corner)....almost a ton...and if anything should happen to lose suction in the process...you're out of luck...seriously out of luck

The rieco brackets fit under the top edges and extend under the bottom section edges at the truck bed rails. they are then bolted through the seating plywood of the lower section. I installed a 1/8" stainless plate on each corner....each plate covers all 4 bolts of the bracket, sandwiching the plywood between the bracket and the plate.

All of the hydraulic cylinders I've seen are the original Alaskan cylinders which have one o-ring seal...unless they have changed their cylinder type recently....

There have been threads in the past about changing over to dual o-rings ram heads.....but I've not seen one done.

I'm assuming the jack assembly you're thinking of has a heavy wall square tube across the bottom of the camper. welded to the steel angle at the bottom of the camper at the back door? Look carefully at the cutout of the angle before you proceed....it has been cut to accommodate the door and typically breaks at the cuts,,,,,the structural integrity of that angle is questionable....especially on older campers...

here's a link to the bracket diagram with the jack...you can see how far it extends beyond the top section of the camper
http://riecotitan.com/flyers/tripodflyer.pdf
 

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