New FWC Eagle owner - Electrical Quesion

[Tacoblanco92]

Hello all, I recently picked up a new-to-me truck/camper combo. 2007 Tacoma with a 2007 FWC Eagle. Both truck and camper are in great condition. However, on my first trip, I ran into electrical issues. The camper (with auxiliary battery) would only run the furnace and ceiling fan for 3-4 hours before the battery indicator would show low (red) power. I got the battery tested and it showed it was at the end of its lifespan, so I purchased a new Optima yellow top deep cycle battery. Unfortunately, the new battery is having the same problem. A few other details... I was camping in pretty cold weather (20-30 degree lows), The auxiliary battery shows a full charge after driving, and camper/wiring was installed by FWC with a battery isolator.

I've read lots of the electrical troubleshooting topics on WTW, and it seems like maybe I have a short in the system somewhere causing a drain on the battery? Anything else I should check?

I appreciate all the knowledge on this forum, its been a huge help!

 

[JacintoKid]

You have probably checked this already but make sure your fridge isn't turned on and running on 12v. Don't ask me how I learned this years ago

 

[Tacoblanco92]

Thanks, this model just has an icebox - so no electricity going there.

Update: I found one of the wires going up to the roof was about halfway severed with exposed wires. They are routed behind the front wood panel, and crease when the roof is closed... seems like a poor design. Anyone else run into this? I'm an electrical newbie, but that doesn't seem good to me. I cut out the broken piece and put in an inline connector for now to see if that was causing the drain.

 

[Kolockum]

My recommendation would be to install a battery monitor that uses a shunt to measure power such as a Trimetric. The shunt measures precise electrical usage in amp hours. This way you know when the battery is charging, when it is being drained and how much juice is actually left in the battery given in a percentage. Cheap battery monitors go off voltage which can vary widely based off the battery specs, age and current draws. I found a small leak in the driver side rear outdoor light that would cause a intermittent short circuit & power draw. But the only way I could find it was using the trimetric monitor and pulling fuses until the monitor stopped showing a power draw. Then I traced the wires and found the leak.

I have a generic deep cell 105 Ah (amp hour) battery and can go for at least 5 days with lights and a furnace. Note: I only use the furnace for a hour or two in the morning and several hours at night in 30* temps.

 

[camelracer]

I had the same problem with the wires going to the roof. You're right, it's a poor design and uses the wrong material. The wire FWC uses is designed for rigid mounting and should not be flexed. I replaced my wiring in that area with multi strand flexible wire and tried to route it so there was minimal bending.

As for your low battery indicator the red light on the monitor panel isn't very accurate and the voltage should be checked with a voltmeter. The battery should also be checked with no load after being at rest for a few minutes. Sometimes the voltage drop caused by the load will cause the red light on the monitor to come on.

Unfortunately the Optima yellow top battery you purchased is a dual purpose battery and not a true deep cycle. Never the less it should still handle the load.

 

[Tacoblanco92]

Sounds like the best way forward is purchasing some sort of battery monitor that can measure amps being drawn from the system.. and start narrowing down where the problem is occurring. The Trimetric monitor may be out of my price range, does anyone have experience with budget options such as the one below? It uses a shunt as well, and I believe will measure amp usage, not just voltage.

https://www.amazon.com/bayite-6-5-100V-Display-Multimeter-Voltmeter/dp/B013PKYILS/ref=as_li_ss_tl?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1534098994&sr=1-4&keywords=ammeter&linkCode=sl1&tag=parkedparadise-20&linkId=6ff18a1bfe9eecf2d098183e5c067b02&language=en_US

 

[Old Crow]

Sounds like the best way forward is purchasing some sort of battery monitor that can measure amps being drawn from the system.. and start narrowing down where the problem is occurring. The Trimetric monitor may be out of my price range, does anyone have experience with budget options such as the one below? It uses a shunt as well, and I believe will measure amp usage, not just voltage.

Amazon.com

If you're convinced you need to monitor amperage, here's a pretty good video discussing several budget alternatives ... including the one you linked to.

... and here's a review of the 100-amp version of the last one by Will Prowse (who has been cited here on WTW before)...

.