Newbie with lots of questions on everything (2012 Tundra looking at an Ocelot)

[brock]

So this is my first post here on WTW, but I've already found useful information on here. To start things off, I have 2012 Toyota Tundra DC (6.5' bed) and I'm looking at purchasing either a FWC Hawk or ATC Ocelot shell model. The only upgrades that I will really take with the shell is the forced air furnace, and this is one of the reasons I'm favoring the ATC. Been reading about some issues with motherboard on the FWC and the ATC is cheaper (plus Marty is great to work with).

Primary use (75%) will be September through late fall camping and extended hunting trips in the mountains and badlands/prairies. As well as some recreation trips with the family in the summer. For the most part I need a decent bed, heat, and to remain mobile in rough terrain. Since I'm going with a shell model, I plan to forego all couches dinettes and build out my own second bed/table for a hunting partner.

Anyway, I have some questions I'd like to figure out answer for before I order so I know it can serve the purpose I need.

Definite upgrades - Winter pack, forced air furnace, wired for solar (but may not install solar panel right away), slide out over cab bed, dual 6-volt batteries.

First question
1. I plan on going with dual 6-volt batteries because I'd like to run a 95 or 100 qt Whynter or Dometic freezer inside the camper for my warm weather hunting excursions. This would allow me to either throw meat directly into a freezer or keep ice in the freezer so I have fresh ice to throw ontop of meat in chest coolers. However, I'm not sure how much juice a freezer like that requires. Some of my hunting trips are 2 weeks away from civilization. Will running a freezer for that long require solar panels to constantly keep my batteries juiced?

My second question.
2. How do these pop up handle really nasty wet weather. Like temperature swings from 0 degrees to 32 degrees with wet snow and wind? Is condensation a REAL problem on the liners?

 

[Wandering Sagebrush]

Brock, first welcome to WTW!

I would recommend a good sized solar panel, unless you’re driving every day. While you’re doing stuff on the roof, add Yakima tracks, the solar panel(s) can be mounted to them.

Condensation can be a significant problem, it can get between the liner and the vinyl. Lots of ventilation and heat will be your best friend. Hyper-vent under the mattress helps minimize dampness and mildew there. Be sure to towel dry any condensation on the vinyl before dropping the roof for any long period of time. Get behind the lift panels, too.

Like you, I like working with the ATC crew.

 

[klahanie]

1) as a starting point this spec says 1.5 Ah/Hr. That's with a 50 degree temp drop outside to in. Freezing to 15F will consume more power but then your ambient will be much lower. IDK if consumption rates are avail for your conditions.

https://www.dometic.com/en-us/us/products/food-and-beverage/coolers/electric-coolers/dometic-cfx-100w117568#specifications

2) Sorry to say, sounds like a perfect recipe for condensation. You'll want a way to dry those towels or sponges used for wiping down.

We don't have an arctic pack. That said, I've always believed a great aid to cold weather camping in a pop up is being able to sleep with the top down. Means less and better insulated space to keep warm, reduces condensation on vinyl, easier to remove snow from the roof, less exposure to wind, etc. Seeing as you will be going shell, I suggest, if possible, to configure with this in mind.

 

[Vic Harder]

First question
1. I plan on going with dual 6-volt batteries because I'd like to run a 95 or 100 qt Whynter or Dometic freezer inside the camper for my warm weather hunting excursions. This would allow me to either throw meat directly into a freezer or keep ice in the freezer so I have fresh ice to throw ontop of meat in chest coolers. However, I'm not sure how much juice a freezer like that requires. Some of my hunting trips are 2 weeks away from civilization. Will running a freezer for that long require solar panels to constantly keep my batteries juiced?

Looks like those Whynter freezers use about 5-6 amps. If they were to run for 12 hours a day, that 60-72AH. Dual 6V 250AH batteries would give you 125AH of usable power before they drop too low in voltage for their own good. 250/60 = 4 days of freezer power without charging.

 

[Taku]

For power, are you going to be parking the truck and camper, or driving pretty much every day to get to a hunting spot? We have an Ocelot on on 05 Tundra with a Propex furnace and it keeps it toasty. Condensation is an issue, but venting helps. Have wanted to try the Hypervent but have not so far. I prop up the mattress, wipe down the condensation on the cabover and use a small, portable fan to dry out the bottom of the mattress. It works pretty well for the ten days I normally am out. Flip the mattress too. Wipe down the sidewalls and dry the clothes on the dashboard in the sun (assuming it is sunny!). You will get ice built up if it is really cold, but just make sure you dry out the camper really well when you get home. Even in cold weather, if it is sunny with low RH, it will dry out. Works well for me. I have the Lab dog sleep in the camper too, which adds to the condensation, but opening one of the tie-down sliders and the Fantastic fan helps.

 

[brock]

Thanks a bunch for the feedback.

For late season solo trips I can always leave the top down to help with heating efficiency and reduce condensation issues on the vinyl. My concern here is that sometimes I'll go 3 or 4 times for 2 or 3 days a pop from November through December. So it makes it a pain in the arse to get everything dried out completely during the time in between.

Depending on my proficiency with loading this thing up I may just leave it on my pick for the last month or two of the season. I can always figure out a way to store the camper in a garage for the winter when I'm done for the season, but it wont be easily done more than once a year.

If the top is left down, will I still have condensation build up on the folds in the vinyl or does leaving the top down actually seal it off enough where it can be avoided completely?

I will not be driving everyday when on extended trips. In fact, sometimes I may go several days without driving. It sounds like solar panels are a must for early season extended trips, especially if I'm running a freezer.

 

[Vic Harder]

can you keep the freezer in the truck cab instead? Sounds like it will be cold outside, so why not minimize the power usage by leaving the freezer where it already cold?

If it is snowing lots, solar panels won't help much.... you have to keep them clear of snow.

3 days with good batteries is doable, without charging in between.

 

[klahanie]

For late season solo trips I can always leave the top down to help with heating efficiency and reduce condensation issues on the vinyl. My concern here is that sometimes I'll go 3 or 4 times for 2 or 3 days a pop from November through December. So it makes it a pain in the arse to get everything dried out completely during the time in between. What I do after a trip is pop the top, open a roof vent and a lower turnbuckle door for air circulation and let the camper bake in the sun to dry out the inside. Or, instead of sun, run a portable electric heater on the floor. Drying the outside of the vinyl is harder if its wet out but I try.

Depending on my proficiency with loading this thing up I may just leave it on my pick for the last month or two of the season. Yah, more than likely I can always figure out a way to store the camper in a garage for the winter when I'm done for the season, but it wont be easily done more than once a year. Storing indoors is great. It will survive outside too but best to be under a cover with some airflow around. Natch, you'll want the vinyl to be dry inside and out before storing for the off season.

If the top is left down, will I still have condensation build up on the folds in the vinyl or does leaving the top down actually seal it off enough where it can be avoided completely? I'm not gonna say none, rather that it shouldn't be any worse than most of the other surfaces inside the camper. The obvious exception would be the window glass, which most often will carry condensation. Thing is, when the top is up in the evening perhaps you'll be cooking or drying clothes. In the AM you'll be getting ready and maybe cooking or boiling water. All this can create moisture inside. There can be a number of variables involved and you can't always pin point which activity caused what. I find sometimes we get a lot, sometimes we don't.
At night though you'll want ventilation, maybe that roof vent and turnbuckle door. We've found it better not to run the furnace. In the AM before heading out I like to turn up the furnace and open those vents, trying to warm up the air, soak up moisture and have that warm, wet air exit out the roof. Of course, sometimes the make up air is also wet....They're small spaces, you have to take the good with the bad.

 

[brock]

can you keep the freezer in the truck cab instead? Sounds like it will be cold outside, so why not minimize the power usage by leaving the freezer where it already cold?

If it is snowing lots, solar panels won't help much.... you have to keep them clear of snow.

3 days with good batteries is doable, without charging in between.

Freezer will only be coming with or being used on early season extended trips. Late season I won't be using it and won't have much need for the solar panels as the trips will be shorter. I'll just bring coolers and set them outside and just be running the heater at night.

I was in MT for 2 weeks this September elk hunting and managing coolers with ice when I was hours from the nearest ice source was a challenge...especially when I had a couple 90 degree days in the middle of my trip.

My goal would be extended power for the freezer in the early season so I can keep a little ice in the freezer for the duration of the trip and keep some food cold. Late season my power needs would switch from the freezer to the furnace.