Racks for surfboards, etc...Any slick ideas?

[verynice]

I need to make racks for my new C/O and was wondering if anyone has any slick ideas for some homebuilts. My last camper I used stainless bathroom handrailling and it came out nice but the Alaskan is not flat on top. Any ideas?

 

[Buckwheat]

The PO made a rack out of electric EMT conduit and sleeved the top piece with abs pipe for a roller on mine. It looks funky but works well for throwing a small boat on top.

 

[caseboy]

i have a electric boat rack i took off of my 74 10'co.it needs new rope and electric motor is jammed and remote switch needs new cable(very weathered),but it could still be restored and be usefull. the rollers still roll smooth and it has the side brackets for alskans.if anyone is near enough to come get it-- it's free. i'm not interested in trying to ship it anywhere. i'm near tacoma ,wa.

wes

 

[verynice]

How about mounting? I was thinking about using 2" lag bolts to attach to the wood runners that run the length of the roof but I haven't seen any done like this. One behind the first vent and the second in front of the rear vent, using 2 bolts per foot on the racks. I've looked at the pictures of some of the members that have taken theirs down to the "bones" for restoration and not too sure if those "runners" are strong enough.? Any thoughts appreciated, thanks

 

[caseboy]

on mine, the electric boat rack was mounted on brackets that came up from the sides just in front of the windows and on brackets up from the back side.each bracket has 3 cariage bolts holding it on

wes

 

[Wooddog]

Verynice, I've spent a few hours staring at the framing on mine so here's my thoughts:

The ceiling joists are 1x2 in my '75 (using "joist" and "1x2" together makes me chuckle). I would not mount anything to them; I think the roof would just sag and puddle. Not to mention holes in roof bad...

The idea is to transfer the weight of the rack as directly as possible to the lifting rams without distorting the shape of the shell. If you were to mount a rack to the roof I'd do it above the bulkhead at the entrance to the CO but still I would bolt to the back panel; it's much stronger than those 1x2s. On mine the curve of the aluminum sheet keeps the roof from even touching all the joists so brackets bolted through the roof would dent it.

If you mount the rack to a vertical surface through bolts as opposed to lag screws will give the benefit of much higher compression between the rack and the siding, increasing the friction between them and adding to the shear strength of the joint.

I have no clue why Alaskan mounted the front of the rack next to the window instead of further forward where there's more support but it seems to work.

Anyway, hope this helps your thoughts. Bruce

 

[verynice]

Thank you for the replies....In the meantime I've already drilled holes and mounted to the 1x2's that run the length of the camper. I'm thinking I may just have to remove and patch the holes I've drilled , and just buy a set of the factory racks. I REALLY wish I could have a redo on this one.....Thanks again-

 

[Rusty]

Alaskan never really mounter those Eide loaders....Eide used to mount the racks when they were first starting out but when Richard died the new owner decided it was too much of a liability and stopped the installations. They don't even sell brackets...The new owner told be to have them made....LOL

I talked to Brian Wheat at Alaskan some time ago about the Eide racks and his comment was..."they put a nasty strain on the hydraulic cylinders when raising or lowering with the extra weight" (I was talking about a small Aluminum Boat 250#). Maybe with the light weight of a surfboard or two there wouldn't be the excess weight and no problems.

Since I'm a NCO it's easier to mount items on front and back directly to the bolts from the ram attachments through the wall.

I've often thought about designing a telescopic system which follows a direct attachment to the jack brackets...or better than that, directly to the frame with an attachment to the torque lift connections up front....telescoping and clipping or bolting when up...it would take the stress off the cylinders and put it directly on the frame of the truck.