Raised camper storage

buckland

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New England
Will try to describe this idea, as I have a few questions for anyone who has had a similar idea. I have a 2016 Diesel Colorado and a 2011 Eagle. I had to raise the camper 3 1/2" as the bed rails on the Colorado are high (the only thing I don't like about the truck). Instead of making a box for the camper to sit on, I made five cross beams and attached them to the camper base (horizontally). This also allowed me to add a few inches of ridge foam insulation to the floor in between. As most pop up camper folks know your camper is never done...it is in "continual tweak".

I had seen someone on the WTW make a nice diamond aluminum frame to put their Rotopax (3) 2 gallon fuel tanks in under the over-cab. Worked real nice for them. I was just about to copy that idea when i hit me that I'd rather have the weight lower as well as the tanks out of sight. I don't usually fill them until I am about to go into an area that I might like to roam and have fuel insurance. This paid off big time in The Yukon... we made it to a station on fumes... I had about a pint of fuel left!

Okay... the idea is this: I have a standard 6 ft bed. The camper base now has 5 cross pieces (3 1/2") lift.
The last one is flush with the rear of the bed. My idea is to take that one off and add two side blocks for support, then add two 1" "I" beams (oak) to create three compartments, each 14.25" wide (the Rotopax are 14" x 18.5" x 3"). The tanks would slide in to hit the next cross support 10.5" in from the end of the bed. This then would have the tanks mostly supported by the truck bed, but still over hang (as the camper does) the rear bumper (only half the distance to the end of the camper). The part that overhangs could have a 1/4"ply screwed on to support the part of the tanks that overhang. There would then be a piece of wood that would clip cross the opening holding in the three tanks also concealing them.

The tanks would be on the truck bed, lower center of gravity, and out of sight and out off the way, easy access.

My questions are about the ply base of camper. The two side ends, on an Eagle have the propane tank on the left and the right is where the porta-potty goes.... it this 9" x 18" ply part of the whole sheet of plywood base or is it two small pieces? This is important info as if I put the two side blocks on those locations I would be putting the seam under stress. If it is solid ply then the load force would be distributed.

Not sure this is a clear enough description so I will hunt for photos to help. Any and all thoughts and suggestions to consider are much obliged.
 
Found a few. This setup has been rock solid. Months on the road in wild places and the camper has showed no signs of a problem with being raised. I actually should state that FWC sent me photos when I asked them about what they do (same).
 

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One more of the end of the bed (that is a back up camera as well... I have since changed that mount as well)
 

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buckland said:
<snip>

My questions are about the ply base of camper. The two side ends, on an Eagle have the propane tank on the left and the right is where the porta-potty goes.... it this 9" x 18" ply part of the whole sheet of plywood base or is it two small pieces? This is important info as if I put the two side blocks on those locations I would be putting the seam under stress. If it is solid ply then the load force would be distributed.
On my 01 Hawk, they're two small pieces. I took this not-very-good photo of that area a few minutes ago.

If you look closely in the lower-right corner, you can see the seam and the staples in it.

(Click to enlarge)

HawkUnderFloorStaples.jpg
 
Thanks OC. Hmmmm mine has the 1/2” ply strip 4” wide covering that area either seam or not. Appreciate the photo! The snow us almost gone from the pasture so i am dreaming of camper stuff and the soon to be good weather!
 
A word of caution concerning the Ford Pinto effect were there a rear end collision. Otherwise, I like the idea. There would be only 1/4” plywood protecting the plastic tanks from rupture with the ignition source of a hot engine being inches away.

Paul
 
Hi Buckland

On our Hawk...the floor supports provide 2 5/8 clearance and run front to back.

I store tow strap and all sorts of stuff under there.....access is via a pull line and the slight overlap at rear of truck bed.

I have long wanted to better use this space for heavy stuff.....i.e. water, but have just not gotten down to work on it.

There are flex tanks for boats that might be adapted to these spaces......

Four spaces 2 1/2" X 10" X 80".

By all means go for the fuel storage....fishing poles, canoe paddles ? Lines for boating.

David Graves
 
Could you perhaps bridge the seam with a layer of plywood applied directly to the bottom of the camper? Don't just screw it into place, bond it.

FWIW the issue with the Pintos was that bolt heads for the differential inspection cover would puncture the metal fuel tank when rear-ended. Part of the reason so many new vehicles use a tank made of polymer is that they're a lot harder to puncture this way. Rotopax look to be made from the same or a similar polymer.
 
Epoxy is your friend! Also the fuel tanks are diesel. Very safe fuel. Throw a match in a tank and it goes out.
Right now the camper is in a trailer in the barn. Once I pull it out and lift it up on the jack stands i think i’ll have a better idea. Was thinking of leaving the 3 1/2” cross pieces in place but cutting the center 14 1/2” out of center on all of them in the middle. I’d have a single slip in for all three all on a pull out 1/4” ply board. Would make it simpler. Just have to see how it would affect the rear back up camera. More to chew on.
 
Here is a sketch of the pattern of the support risers on the base. Cutting the back three so the center is clear for the three slide in rotopax. This might work. IMG_7763.JPG
 
I have a couple of questions/comments if I’m following your train of thought..

1. Would you actually be able to reach all the way back to reach the tank furthest forward?
2. What would you use to keep the plastic tanks from rubbing your bed and wearing through over time.
3. Why not keep all three tanks towards the rear (unless weight distribution is a problem) and have one access door across the back to access them?
 
My thoughts exactly.... #3 has to do with the support base... having all three tanks at back would be best but not enough space for the supports between them or if in one space not structurally a good idea.
#2 I have a bed mat... and the three tanks would be on a piece of 1/4” ply which pulls out solving #1
 

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