Rebuilding.....

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xrcris

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May 29, 2014
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Hi all - Just picked up what I think is a late 60's, early 70's 10' NCOE:



I've wanted one for a while, a lot more manageable when it's just me and the boy, than hauling a trailer.

A little (lot) more rot than I initially thought (not my first camper rodeo, so I wasn't too surprised, just thought I might get off a little easier.... :rolleyes: )



The roof stringers are good, as is the framing for the bottom box and side windows. The Al. is good, and all the glass, so for a couple hundred bucks, i'm not too upset (at least not like I was when my brand new 25K TT sprang a leak).



Parts:



I've got the tear down almost done:





and have new ply getting ready to go in:



I don't know what to use though, for the curved paneling on the interior? Luaun? Even 5.2mm ply feels like it will split trying to bend that radius; do any of you experienced Alaskaners have any suggestions? Thanks!
 
Hey Marty, thanks for the reply. I've used door skin from HD before, for the panel in some cabinet frames, no way that will bend; it's stiff. One of the "upscale" lumberyards around here has doorskin as well, but they're only in 84"x36" sheets; guess that they only think they'll be used for actual doors :(. They have the luaun though, full sheets @ 2.7mm thick. I might give your idea about doubling up a try with that.
 
Ash doorskin material is available from hardwood suppliers...I think you used birch for the front so you may want to continue with that. It'll be easier to find as well.

ambitious job....looks like things are under control ;)
 
So after ripping out the old paneling, turns out that it's the same thing as the luaun at Dunn lumber, dimensionally anyways: Last of the side sheets going in:




Now to move on to the wiring.....any suggestions for how to modernize? I think I want to use a conventional 5-pin connection from the truck. Run the hot wire to a battery, and then a common wire to a 5-circuit 12V ganged fuse box. How to get the power from the bottom half to the top half? I'm thinking of using a coiled cord like this:

http://www.rvupgradestore.com/Jetconnex-7-Blade-Round-To-5-Wire-Round-Coil-Cable-p/95-12492-05.htm

Any other suggestions?
 
At least these things come apart pretty easy :)
Nice work, I'm pretty deep into my 8'CO upgrade, I'm in the same bind with the electrical, I have the roof skin off and am running all new wiring, i too need to figure out the plug. I also don't want to have separate 12v and 110v connections on the upper and lower halves. I want to have the top tied to the bottom section with a flexible connection, kind of like on a normal popup, but more elegant .
 
the coiled cord is a good method for making the jump from top to bottom...the problem arises...how to keep the coil straight and even going up and down so it won't get damaged in the process....I've replace my extension cord connection once for frayed wires from getting caught in binds....even with a bungy cord attached to it to pull it into the closet going down. You have to find a wire with size enough for the load you're putting on the system...12 ga, will probably work for most..until all the associated electronics start getting installed. just make sure all your connections are soldered and waterproofed with marine shrink tube...it has an adhesive inside which melts under the heat and fills the gaps.
 
So i've been giving this some more thought, and came up with the possibility of installing a 2 to 3 ft. conduit from the bottom of the topside cabinet along the roof, that will slide down into the bottom cabinets when lowered and act as a chase for the wiring.

SInce this is going to be used boondocking, I'm going to keep the 12V entirely separate from the 110 for now (might down the road get a converter and do a "proper" rv set-up but I think this will work for what I need). In the chase, I'd run a single hot from a dedicated coach battery to the ganged fuse box, a ground, as well as the two wires for the outside marker lights. Just need to get some measurements and see if when lowered, that proposed conduit would have enough clearance to drop into the bottom half.
 
xrcris, you mentioned dunn lumber. you must be northwesterner. i'm over by gig harbor if you need help tackling anything, although it looks like you're doing a great job. i had a '64 10' nco before i got my '75 10' co.

wes
 
xrcris said:
So i've been giving this some more thought, and came up with the possibility of installing a 2 to 3 ft. conduit from the bottom of the topside cabinet along the roof, that will slide down into the bottom cabinets when lowered and act as a chase for the wiring.

SInce this is going to be used boondocking, I'm going to keep the 12V entirely separate from the 110 for now (might down the road get a converter and do a "proper" rv set-up but I think this will work for what I need). In the chase, I'd run a single hot from a dedicated coach battery to the ganged fuse box, a ground, as well as the two wires for the outside marker lights. Just need to get some measurements and see if when lowered, that proposed conduit would have enough clearance to drop into the bottom half.
Click to expand...
as long as you provide for the expansion....that's a great idea.....maybe conduit just big enough to encapsulate a coiled wire....and not getr caught up in the telescopic slide....champher the insert or round it off

BTW...nice work ;)
 
caseboy said:
xrcris, you mentioned dunn lumber. you must be northwesterner. i'm over by gig harbor if you need help tackling anything, although it looks like you're doing a great job. i had a '64 10' nco before i got my '75 10' co.

wes
Click to expand...
Thanks! I've spent the past 20 years working myself north, I'm up in Everett. Hopefully, i'll have it done before riding season is done.....
 
Thanks for the offer Wes. With the kids help, I've been making progress!



Still need to get the clearance lights on:



But the 110 is in, you can see the sconces in front:



Used some beadboard to brighten it up a bit:



Next on the list is to replace the floor, get the propane figures out, finish the wiring, and then patch a couple of small spots of rot in the bottom tub. That got me thinking about fibreglass; anyone seen one of these resheathed in glass? Lay it in like a boat and finish paint it, I bet that would be pretty nice (durable too.).
 
i like the white bead board. on our '64 nco we used to have, we painted both ends white. it really brightened it up inside.looks like you're doing a fantastic job.

wes
 
Thanks guys. I'm going to paint the lower end walls white; mainly b/c there is some rot there that I plan on fixing with a combination of epoxy and scribed in patch panels in lieu of replacing the whole piece. Figure some Kilz primer to hide the stains then some gloss white should look pretty good.

Next hurdle is the propane; the old copper line is just broke off. I don't know if the fridge works, and I'm planning on a Mr. Buddy for heat. Trying to decide if I want to run a 1# bottle or set it up for a bbq style (20#?) bottle (and figure out where to put that). Could someone give me an estimate of how much propane these old fridges use?
 
I pulled the propne fridge out and put in an ice box, the thought of the combustion gasses just going into the camper didn't sit well with me. As for the heater I put a wave 3 heater in.
 
i went further-- i pulled out the fridge and made a cabinet that is accessible from inside and outside as well. i use it for firewood.i use a wave heater also. i get 10-12 hrs on low per colman 1#bottle.i haven't had to use it on hi very long yet, and we've been in some pretty bad weather. i re-routed my copper line (for stove) to a flexible hose that goes thru the back lower side wall. it's long enough to reach a propane tank(bbq size) sitting under tailgate on the ground.i just put the tank in last and out first when i arrive.

wes
 
Thanks for the replies. I'm definitely keeping a fridge but need to figure out a way to test it before I get too far along. Maybe I can figure out a way to borrow one of the propane tanks from my TT......

Unrelated, working on fixing the emblems; they were mostly there, just needed a little epoxy for the "K":

 
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