Screw replacement

[buckland]

2011 Eagle with gobs of miles and being from road salt heaven Northeast...the rear wall exterior white screws are all showing rust signs. I would like to replace. Two thoughts on that are: stainless or simply the same new white screws (threads dipped in sealant) ??
Thanks in advance for your take.

 

[Wandering Sagebrush]

2011 Eagle with gobs of miles and being from road salt heaven Northeast...the rear wall exterior white screws are all showing rust signs. I would like to replace. Two thoughts on that are: stainless or simply the same new white screws (threads dipped in sealant) ??
Thanks in advance for your take.

Rob, if remember correctly, stainless screws can cause galvanic action with the siding, and that galvanized are the preferred fasteners. There are a few threads from days gone by.

 

[fish more]

I replaced the screws on my Hawk with steel plated square headed screws. I sprayed the screws inserted into cardboard with white Rust-Oleum paint. The replacement screws have held up alot longer than the originals. Don't use stainless !!

 

[buckland]

GOTCHA! No stainless Good idea on the pre-spray with rustr-oleum ... Thanks for your advice.
I love a plan.

 

[Jon R]

Here’s a link to a galvanic corrosion metal combination chart. On an aircraft you’d use cad-plated steel, but galvanized steel is commonly used on rv aluminum siding. Wet installing with sealant reduces corrosion as well.


https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/ah125/brett1402/Galvanic_Corrosion_Chart_zps2iwmt2do.jpg

 

[DavidGraves]

Buckland

One can buy a large variety of coatings and finishes on screws these days.

Galvanized steel screws with a white baked finish might serve your needs.

Fastenal is a good source in my part of the county and they will ship....bags of 100.

David Graves

 

[buckland]

Thanks David that just might be the ticket. They used to have a store 'near' here but they've left... not enough business. I'll check the online but I bet the shipping will be more than the screws!

 

[fish more]

buckland, the prepainted screws are coated with just a thin layer of paint, I used some at first and ended up replacing those also because of poor finish. If you are going to replace all the screws, do yourself a favor, use some good paint. I think you would be happier with the finished product. It's time consuming replacing the screws.

 

[Vic Harder]

Rob, you may also find a screw or two that will no longer bite, and will need one size thicker. If you are ordering screws, it might be good to get a few the next size up.

 

[buckland]

So Vic you're saying I have a few screws loose !!! I know a number of people who would agree with you!
Good point though... I hadn't expected so much good advice. I have had some screws I bought that were painted just splinter off when torqued, so will probably go the suggested punch them through a sheet of cardboard and top paint the heads white.

After a long trip when one has time to think about mods, I have a long list of improvements and repairs to do. Part of the fun. My brother, a now retired marine mechanic, suggested a foot pump for the water. That I will do too. No wet counters and two hands free!
Thanks all for the ideas/suggestions. !0 heads are better than one.

 

[Wandering Sagebrush]

Rob, I like foot pumps for water. We had one on the C Dory, and never had an issue. No wet counters, two hands free, no noisy pump, no current drain. The only negative was it interrupted floor space.

You can also use it to drain the tank by slipping a hose over the faucet tube, and creating a siphon.

 

[buckland]

That is a good idea Steve. I also did buy the Vivair kit to blow out the tank/lines on the road. In shoulder season better safe than sorry. And Vic... just went out and pulled 5 screws from the back. 4 of them just spun... so looks like going up a size will be the norm!

 

[bajaphile]

Anyone have a preferred brand of screw? I'm looking for the hex head #8 x 3/4 sheet metal screws which are galvanized online, but having a hard time. I know I'd find them at Home Depot, but curious if there was a better quality version. I thought I had bought some on McMaster, but am not seeing them anymore.

 

[SunMan]

Many years ago I bought a bucket of white painted screws and would replace as needed, I live at the beach and it was a never ending battle. Despite claims of stainless screws causing a reaction, several of my friends have replaced theirs with stainless, many years ago with no issue, myself now included. Go stainless and never worry about that tedious job again.
I am also having a new ATC built at the moment and sent a large box for the guys to use on my build so I don’t have to deal with it again.

 

[Vic Harder]

I’m guessing galvanic corrosion needs a number of things for it to happen… zinc & aluminum, salt, and electric current. Many campers here do NOT have corrosion issues. Is that because most of our campers do not have a problem with a wiring fault that causes current to travel via the camper skin? It would be nice if there was an easy way to test for such a current.

 

[buckland]

These seem to fit the bill: Correct me if I'm wrong but the OEM screw is a #8 3/4" and if it's spinning a #10 should be ample to grip?

https://www.mcmaster.com/90190A197/

For the price for 100 I might as well get #8 and #10 i suppose.

Actually I prefer the square drive so here is a link to that and also multiple sizes
https://www.mcmaster.com/products/screws/steel-square-drive-rounded-head-screws-for-sheet-metal/

 

[craig333]

Quality seems to be an issue. I'd say 90% of my screws are fine while the other 10% show signs of corrosion. Did FWC mix some batches? I tend to think its a mfg issue. Unfortunately I don't live at the beach so I'll just have to accept that corrosion isn't much of an issue for me

 

[bajaphile]

Many years ago I bought a bucket of white painted screws and would replace as needed, I live at the beach and it was a never ending battle. Despite claims of stainless screws causing a reaction, several of my friends have replaced theirs with stainless, many years ago with no issue, myself now included. Go stainless and never worry about that tedious job again.
I am also having a new ATC built at the moment and sent a large box for the guys to use on my build so I don’t have to deal with it again.

That is very interesting, I have experienced the same results. I bought my 2003 Hawk in 2019 and 50% of the screws rusted within the first few months. I live within a 1/4 mi from the ocean myself. I started to replace with SS 316 screws, knowing full well about the galvanic corrosion issue with non passivated/coated stainless and aluminum. I got worried after reading here about doing this, so I started replacing the screws with galvanized. In 2023 now, all the stainless do not show any issues and the galvanized are about 50/50 rusted. Now I am just talking about the heads... The few stainless screws I've pulled look good however...

Also I'd say about 90% of my screws are hex flange heads. I have a hard time finding a quality galvanized version aside from cheap ones at Home Depot. Looks like the ones @buckland posted are panheads. Not sure if a previous owner swapped all mine out to hex, or?

 

[buckland]

My 2011 Eagle has both pan head (white) all around the perimeter and also hex heads galvanized in other areas. IF… the big IF… I could use SS I would prefer as rust is happening on 90 % of the galvanized. Mind you in New England everything near a road rusts. I heard tell in Oregon people don’t tan, they rust… ( In Ireland we stay in the pub which stops both problems.

 

[SunMan]

Also I'd say about 90% of my screws are hex flange heads. I have a hard time finding a quality galvanized version aside from cheap ones at Home Depot. Looks like the ones @buckland posted are panheads. Not sure if a previous owner swapped all mine out to hex, or?

Hex should be standard, I have a 2003 Hawk as well.

I sourced my stainless hex screws from a local bolt company, not sure what the brand was.