Tech Tip / Service Bulletin (Camper to Roof Wiring)

Stan@FourWheel

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 4, 2007
Messages
2,380
Location
Woodland, CA
TECH TIP / FWC SERVICE BULLETIN:

CAMPER INTERIOR LIGHTS NOT WORKING?

BOTH YOUR POWER ROOF VENT FAN & INTERIOR LIGHTS NOT WORKING ?

Over the past few years FWC has seen a few older campers come in to our service shop and has also had some service calls because the interior ceiling lights and the power roof vent fan (if installed) were no longer working for the particular customer.

It doesn’t happen often very often, but if it does happen to you, it is a pretty easy fix to troubleshoot and repair.

Note: We have since reworked and rerouted the camper-to-roof wires to eliminate the problem for future customers. As campers get older and have more use on them, things can wear out and some items will require normal maintenance. That said, we are always listening to customer feedback and trying to improve the design & build processes with our campers.

To better serve our customers existing customers with older campers, I have put together some sample pictures and some “how to fix” notes below.

I also wanted to thank Lighthawk from WanderTheWest for the request for us to post this information.

Lighthawk’s thread posting is located here …

http://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/topic/8410-broken-solar-wire-redux-2008-hawk/

HOW TO FIX / TROUBLESHOOT:

Turn off any and all power to the camper. Turn off the 12v master kill switch, disconnect the aux. camper battery, and unplug the camper from any shore power (disconnect 120v electricity).

Next, locate the Yellow & Black wires (and also the Red & Black wires if your camper is pre-wired for a solar panel), behind the front folding lift panel. These wires are located on the driver’s side of the camper, up in the cabover bed area, behind the folding wooden panel that allows the camper roof to go up and down.

These wires run from the camper frame (cabover bed area), up behind the folding lift panel, and then up into the roof of the camper. The wires are tucked behind the wooden folding panel and taped to the back of the panel to keep them out of sight.

Once you have located the wires behind the front folding lift panel, reach behind the center of the panel and gently pull the tape off, and the pull wires out just far enough so that you can see them and work on them if needed.

If you notice that the wires are frayed or split, or you can see the bare wiring showing, you will need to cut out the small portion of the wire and reconnect the wires with a butt connector.

Just snip out a small section of the damaged or frayed wiring, strip back some of the insulation cover with wire strippers, and connect the wire back together with a butt connector.

Cover with electrical tape for good measures.

Repeat the steps above as needed for each wire that needs fixing or repair.

Carefully reconnect your aux. camper battery to restore power back to the camper so that you can check to see if your wiring repairs were successful. Note: Remember that the main camper wiring that connects to your 12 volt deep cycle camper battery usually consists of 2 wires . . . a “White” wire and also a “Black” wire. The main camper battery wire that is “White” wire will need to be connected to the (+) positive terminal on the 12v deep cycle camper battery. The main camper battery wire that is “Black” will need to be connected to the (–) negative terminal on the 12v deep cycle camper battery.

Once you have restored 12v power to the camper, go ahead and test your interior ceiling lights, and the power roof vent fan (if equipped). If the lights come on, you should be good to go.

If this does not help or has not fixed the problem, the next step would be to check your 12 volt fuse in the main fuse panel that supplies power to the camper roof. Check the label on the fuse box or check each individual fuse in the fuse block to see if any have blown. If they have blown or “popped”, replace as needed with the same type of fuse, and the same amperage fuse. Do NOT install any new fuses that are rated for a higher amperage then what was originally installed by the FWC factory.

We hope this has been helpful and are here to support you in any way we can.

If you still need further assistance, please call or service department during regular business hours.

FWC SERVICE (800) 242-1442

Thank you.

Stan

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Nice write-up Stan, thanks. Good contribution to the site as well as product support.
 
Thanks for responding to my requests for FWC to address the known roof wiring problem that is not uncommon.
I understand that in 2012 the wiring was improved, but most campers are older than that and may experience the same frayed or broken wires that I found on my 2008 Hawk.

It means a lot to me that FWC stands behind their product, and this was a step in the right direction. May I also suggest you include a service bulletin on the FWC site, since you have many campers out there with the same problem, who may not be WTW members.
 
I don't totally agree with this repair method. The wire FWC uses has thick strands and a semi rigid outer covering. This type of wire is meant for a stationary environment such as your house not a folding roof panel. Just splicing the existing wire is only a temporary fix.

When my wiring failed I cut out the section behind the roof panels and replaced it with a pliable wire. So far it's working well.
 
<< I don't totally agree with this repair method. The wire FWC uses has thick strands and a semi rigid outer covering. This type of wire is meant for a stationary environment such as your house not a folding roof panel. Just splicing the existing wire is only a temporary fix. When my wiring failed I cut out the section behind the roof panels and replaced it with a pliable wire. So far it's working well. >>

No problem with that. If the customer wants to use a different type of wiring, they can. It sounds like is has worked better for your camper and might be a good solution. I like your idea.


<< It means a lot to me that FWC stands behind their product, and this was a step in the right direction. May I also suggest you include a service bulletin on the FWC site, since you have many campers out there with the same problem, who may not be WTW members >>

Yes, we will be adding this section to our new website (coming soon).
I'm locked out of the old website, somewhat, due to how things are hard coded from the original web designer .
Our new sites hopes to have a lot more flexibility so we can update and change things more frequently!

:)



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camelracer said:
I don't totally agree with this repair method. The wire FWC uses has thick strands and a semi rigid outer covering. This type of wire is meant for a stationary environment such as your house not a folding roof panel. Just splicing the existing wire is only a temporary fix.

When my wiring failed I cut out the section behind the roof panels and replaced it with a pliable wire. So far it's working well.
Reading this and the other 2 threads, I'd like to get some of that pliable/flexible wire. Anybody have suggestions on what to get or what I should search for? Can you get it at Home Depot or the local hardware store?

Thank you
 
camper101 said:
Reading this and the other 2 threads, I'd like to get some of that pliable/flexible wire. Anybody have suggestions on what to get or what I should search for? Can you get it at Home Depot or the local hardware store?

Thank you
I think I got mine from an eBay seller, but just google stranded silicone wire and you should get some hits. Warning: the stuff is expensive, but if you are just splicing short lengths at the bend, it's not too bad. Here's just one link.
 
I just bought some from Ali (China) Express. 39.5 feet of 8AWG for $40. I'll let you know how it is whe it arrives.
 
Thanks guys. Got some silicone wire on the way.

Highz did you end up leaving the wires off to the side as you show in this post? I'm finding that the wires, especially with butt connectors, seem to take up a bunch of space between the lifting panels when you put the roof down (as shown here). Not sure if it was like that before or if it matters. I pulled the wires off to the side for now.
 
camper101 said:
Highz did you end up leaving the wires off to the side as you show in this post? I'm finding that the wires, especially with butt connectors, seem to take up a bunch of space between the lifting panels when you put the roof down (as shown here). Not sure if it was like that before or if it matters. I pulled the wires off to the side for now.

There's just a little wire that sticks out the edge of the folding panels. The connectors I used aren't very bulky and are taped to the back of the lift panels. I haven't noticed any stress on the lift panels or hinge, but I'll take a closer look and report back if I see anything to worry about.
 
Stan@FourWheel said:
More pictures ...
I agree withe the "S" wire routing solution and the superflex wire that others have mentioned. I'm less than impressed with using duct tape to hold the wire and conduit tube down. There are other, cost effective, ways to tie down and strain relief this wire run across the hinge that more mechanically sound and impervious to condensation.
 
Stan, thank you for your clear pictorial and past/present methods for routing the wire. I think the S-method you described is a good solution, however I would think that using small nylon clamps or a glue gun, would be a better method for routing and securing the wire to the back of the folding panel. I also agree others regarding use of a quality wire where appropriate. The factory wire is stiff and brittle.copper and much easier to crack and break over time, when bent. When rewiring I will always opt for a quality, tinned, marine wire (typically Ancor marine wire). It is significantly more pliable and corrosion resistant with a higher temperature rating as well. I've used different types of marine wire over the years and they are all better than standard house wire for a camper. But marine wire differs from brand to brand, they are not all created equally. Ancor wire is typically more pricey than some of the other discount, marine wire, but it checks all the right boxes. If I was doing a critical repair or wiring job I wouldn't cheap out on the wire. Thanks again for your time valuable support.

Rich
 

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