Tire tread depth for replacement

[heinphoto]

I'm curious at what tread depth you all start thinking about replacing your tires. I am still on the original OEM Goodyears and the front tires are both down to 6/32. I believe the wear bars are at 2/32. However, for off-road safety and traction, especially with a heavy FWC, I want to err on the side of caution, so I am starting to get "itchy".

 

[Wandering Sagebrush]

Spider sense is good. If you’re heading into nasty terrain, it might be time to replace.

 

[veryactivelife]

On most tire depth charts 6 is at the bottom of safe/usable. 5 is at the top of cautionary. Only you can be the judge and interpreter.

Safe travels
Dean

 

[Wallowa]

Not mentioned is age of tires....is there any guidance based on factual not sales for how long you should continue to use tires even if the tread depth is still "safe/usable"?

I realize a lot of variables such as use, storage, air pressure and weight carried....unless you see sidewall deterioration what is the lifetime of for example the "E" Coopers on my Tundra/Hawk combo?

Thanks....

 

[craig333]

How long is safe is good question. I had Jeep tires that were ten years old. Still looked great since I put very few miles on the Jeep. I needed a flat repair and they refused. Too old they said. I hated to do it but I bought new tires. I thought about a blow out and if something bad happened I'd be going "should have spent the money on new tires".

Not a problem on the truck. I have no problem wearing tires out before they get old

I'll go further in the summer than I will in the winter but its still a judgement call. I don't go by a tread gauge but I don't try and squeeze out that last 5k either.

 

[heinphoto]

Thanks for the comments - they are in line with what I have been thinking. Given our use of the truck (typically remote and solo), I will likely go ahead and replace them now rather than try and get a few more miles on them.

-Scott

 

[AWG_Pics]

Good call. We figure we have about one more long trip with ours before replacing -- even though the service folks say they are fine.

 

[Wallowa]

Alas like everything in life..it always comes down to "assumption of risk".. I changed the timing belt [and water pump] on our '05 Tundra with only 60K miles...interference motor would self-digest if belt broke...of course entire rig and worse could be lost if tires go at speed or the 'wrong time'...

 

[craig333]

On my old truck, I had a blowout and I mean instant complete disintegration of the tire. It was on a nice straight stretch of 395 and I've often thought I might not be here if it had happened on a turn. I ditched the truck and the heavy camper after that. I give overloaded trucks a wide berth.

 

[Wallowa]

On my old truck, I had a blowout and I mean instant complete disintegration of the tire. It was on a nice straight stretch of 395 and I've often thought I might not be here if it had happened on a turn. I ditched the truck and the heavy camper after that. I give overloaded trucks a wide berth.

begs the question: What tires, what pressure, what temp, what load and what speed. In decades of driving I have never 'disintegrated' a tire....a tire going flat and still "at speed" for sufficient time, will tear up the sidewalls....only tires that I personally seem 'come apart' were back in 50-60s and they were retreads...doubt any passenger car tires are now retreaded...also saw 'regroved' tires, cut new groves into bald tires, yup, olden days...

 

[craig333]

It was definitely overloaded. Had big wood frame cabover camper. 55mph on a warm day. I don't recall the brand or pressure. Nevada Highway Patrol checked me out. Didn't offer to help though.

 

[rubberlegs]

It always seems strange that E rated tires need higher pressure than P rated tires. I've searched for reasons, and all I can think of is too-low pressure causes them to overheat at high speed, damaging the plies. Presumably that's because the thicker walls don't shed heat as well, and they are stiffer, and thus flexing heats 'em up more. But those are just guesses.

 

[fuzzymarindave]

I'm curious at what tread depth you all start thinking about replacing your tires. I am still on the original OEM Goodyears and the front tires are both down to 6/32. I believe the wear bars are at 2/32. However, for off-road safety and traction, especially with a heavy FWC, I want to err on the side of caution, so I am starting to get "itchy".

Tire tread depth (640).jpg

When my tires give me the “itchy” feeling I end buying a new set regardless of a little more tread left.

 

[Wallowa]

When my tires give me the “itchy” feeling I end buying a new set regardless of a little more tread left.

True that...cost of new tires is well worth peace of mind....and balanced against losing control if a tire goes, well worth the expenditure.

 

[TacomaAustin]

It always seems strange that E rated tires need higher pressure than P rated tires. I've searched for reasons, and all I can think of is too-low pressure causes them to overheat at high speed, damaging the plies. Presumably that's because the thicker walls don't shed heat as well, and they are stiffer, and thus flexing heats 'em up more. But those are just guesses.

While it definitely roughens the ride, increasing the pressure on all terrain E rated tires quiets down the noise while at highway speeds.

With that said, someone my local Discount Tire seems to believe that the E rated tires should be inflated to whatever pressure recommendations post on my 1/2 ton Tundra's door jam. Just try running down the highway on a set of E rated all terrains with only 30 PSI per tire. You'll be getting highway noise at just 45 mph.

 

[heinphoto]

FWIW, I scratched my itch this morning and have a shiny new set of Yokohama X-AT tires installed on my rig. Now, I just have to find the time to get out and use them!