Tow Bars for Truck Campers

RC Pilot Jim

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San Diego Calif
Truck Camper magazine has a interesting article on this subject as follows:

http://www.truckcampermagazine.com/camper-tech/systems/tow-bars-truck-campers/

We use the "A" frame type with our Suzuki Samurai...Towing it is part of the fun (for me at least).
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I know "Craig333" and "camelracer" flat tow. Anyone else have any pictures to share? :D
 
Only decent picture of the set up, will have to work on that...


We use a ReadyBrute towbar with the integrated surge brake system. Once I got the cable run into the jeep and attached to the brake pedal (along with a break away system), it's been super easy and reliable. Can barely tell it's there. I needed to add a 14" extension for the hitch to add a little more clearance for turning. Even with that, can barely see with the side view mirrors, so added a camera on the top of the camper so I can see what's going on back there. Have about 5k miles on the set up so far, mountain passes, tight 2 lane highways, all good.
 
Bad Habit do you have a diesel? If so what kind of mileage do you get when towing?
We have a Grand Cherokee that I am thinking of building out (now that I just made my last payment!) and was wondering what kind of penalty you pay when towing?
 
Bad Habit: I'm interested in more info on your "integrated surge brake system" .
So far the Tacomas brakes are up to stopping everything when driving conservatively.

I priced a aftermarket system that "pushes the brake pedal on towed vehicle" and its pricey (around $800). Do you have a link to your system?
 
Love my 87 Samurai with a 1.6 td VW diesel.That thing goes anywhere and I drag it behind me almost every time we go out. I just use a old A frame bar but just got a used Roadmaster off Craigslist I am going to be putting on soon as I build my new bumper.
I don't have a break system but my truck is pretty heavy and have never had any issue stopping it even when I tow it behind my Fifth Wheel but I would like to have a break away system
 
Chuckar...Samurai's rock !!!

Ours is a stpck 1.3 1988 (65H.P.). Over the last 2 years replaced every worn out part, and it was mostly uses as a "towed-buggy" so it had low miles on the engine. We added a skid plate under the transfer case and new old man emu springs all around (Petroworks - Really improved the ride). The pictures show it with a 3 inch lift...Actually a 1.5 inch. Body isn't heavy enough to depress the springs.

Do you have any pictures of yours showing the tow bar? Would love to see them.
 
I have the Ready Brute with the surge brake. Between it and my superduty's tow mode and vehicle descent I REALLY like it. Yes, pricey but I have it when I need it... there are still idiots on the road out there with us ;)
 

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Jim
I don't have any Pictures of my tow bar set up. I have reverse shackle suspension on the front and my pin points for the tow bar are connected to it so it would be very different for the stock suspension set up. Its just a very basic bar I bought at Wally World but looking forward to getting the new bumper done and using the Roadmaster for easier hook up with one person.
 
I don't notice much of a penalty mileage wise towing but I do think it contributes to my transmission overheating when traveling slow grades offroad. Btw, my tow bar is a homemade job (previous owner).
 
Yes, I have the 6.7l diesel, great motor. With camper on I'm averaging about 14+ MPG, pretty much the same towing (actually I tell everyone it's almost 30 when towing, I get credit for two vehicle miles, right?). Seems everywhere I go is uphill.

this is the towbar with surge brake http://www.readybrake.com/store/c2/RV_Tow_Bars.html
you need to run a cable into the cab of the toad and it attaches to the brake pedal. The actuator pulls on the cable to use the vehicles brakes. It was about $1100 I believe. Almost all states have a requirement that anything towed that weighs over 3500lbs has to have a supplemental brake system. While the F350s brakes could handle the jeep and camper, I really wouldn't want to rely on them alone, especially on some of the big mountain passes.

I changed the front bumper out on the jeep so it would have the attachment points, and of course there was that big hole for a winch in the bumper so, could let that stay that way...(jeeps are slippery slope, add that to a truck and camper...)
 
Bad Habit said:
Yes, I have the 6.7l diesel, great motor. With camper on I'm averaging about 14+ MPG, pretty much the same towing (actually I tell everyone it's almost 30 when towing, I get credit for two vehicle miles, right?). Seems everywhere I go is uphill.

this is the towbar with surge brake http://www.readybrake.com/store/c2/RV_Tow_Bars.html
you need to run a cable into the cab of the toad and it attaches to the brake pedal. The actuator pulls on the cable to use the vehicles brakes. It was about $1100 I believe. Almost all states have a requirement that anything towed that weighs over 3500lbs has to have a supplemental brake system. While the F350s brakes could handle the jeep and camper, I really wouldn't want to rely on them alone, especially on some of the big mountain passes.

I changed the front bumper out on the jeep so it would have the attachment points, and of course there was that big hole for a winch in the bumper so, could let that stay that way...(jeeps are slippery slope, add that to a truck and camper...)
This looks like an interesting tow bar, but I have concerns about the surge brake aspects. On a short but very steep descent, I overheated the brakes on my boat trailer (5,000 pounds). Have you noticed any issues when pulling your jeep? I'd feel safer with an electric over hydraulic combination.

Like you, I think the F350/6.7 could handle the load, but I wouldn't want to get caught doing it. If there was an accident, the stuff would hit the fan...
 
So far no issues that I've noticed. There's a micro switch on the actuator that lights an LED on my dash when it's engaged. It doesn't seem to engage too soon that I've noticed. Having disk brakes on a newer jeep probably does help with the heat dissipation too. I stop every so often and feel the wheels/tires all the way around to be sure after a tough section of road and so far everything has been nice and cool.

Originally I was looking for an electric system that would use the factory brake controller, surprisingly I only found 1. It seemed that the 7 pin need to be rewired which didn't seem right to me. Then I was going to have to find a good place to mount the controller on the jeep and then run a cable to the brake peddle anyway. The control box/cable pulley didn't like getting wet, let alone submerged so that really made finding a location difficult. After racking my few brain cells that I have left, I decided a simple mechanical system would be cleaner and easier.

The jeep is light enough that it doesn't push hard enough on a grade to really drag the brakes. If the truck is slowing down, it will engage them, but it doesn't seem to over react. No problems on Conway, Sherwin Grade, over 58 in Oregon or any of the WA passes so far
 
"Bad"
The Samurai weighs about 2,300 pounds. Truck is rated to tow 6500. Probably the reason the brakes with corresponding downshifting handle the rig and tow vehicle.

. I have not checked with the Calif DMV to see if I'm legal without tow brakes. Doing that now..

Update

Calif Towing Laws
# 26302 states "trailers" over 1,500 pounds need brakes.

Clicking on the "Tow Bar" button says I need tow brakes. ...Hmmm...In 5,000 tow miles I haven't been stopped or asked whether I have them.... They don't say what the minimum weight is though ???


Craig, do you have tow brakes on your Jeep?

Scrolling down under "Tow bar" there is a "Tips" link - "towing tips and techniques" . Good information EXCEPT one can't back up a towed vehicle because the front wheels turn to the side and rolling motion stops.....requiring unhooking if one can't drive forward. Requires planning when entering dead ends and gasoline stations. :oops:
 
Yep, you definitely have to be aware of where you're turning into. I have had to "force" it once, luckily it was on dirt and the jeep tires could slide. Just needed a few inches so I could complete a U-turn. Another time, I just got in the jeep and used it to pull the truck back just a little bit. Sometimes you gotta do what ya gotta do.

With a Samurai a or even a CJ or other older/lighter jeep you probably would have no issue with out the braking system, assuming an adequate tow vehicle. Many people have been towing that way for years. The newer JK we have is quite a bit heavier so I felt it was prudent to have a system. I doubt Johnny Law would pull you over to check, but if they pull you over for something else and felt the need to generate more revenue, they could add to the fun ticket cost.
 
I'm going to continue to risk it. Only found out I'm illegal a few weeks ago. If anything they'll pull me over for my non carb fuel cans. At least with the two vehicle if you get in a bad spot (and I have a few times) you can unhook, get each vehicle turned around and hook back up. Try doing that with a trailer.
 
I've been flat towing my Jeep since '75 without any problems or hassle from the CHP. My original tow vehicle was a Dodge van with drum brakes and that was sometimes dicey. The Dodge 2500 I'm using now has more than enough brakes but I still worry about the Jeep passing me during a panic stop.

If you flat tow off road be careful bumps or dips in the road surface. I once popped the hitch off the ball coming out of a ravine. The ball type hitch setup has a limit to its articulation. I'm now using a pintle hook setup. It's noisy but solid.

For those of you that use the external braking system in the towed vehicle how does that work with power brakes and the engine not running?
 
I have backed up a flat-towed toad. If you are perfectly straight it will go back perfectly straight for quite a distance so long as you go slow. I mean really slow. Otherwise I put my co-pilot in the toad's driver's seat and explain where we're going and how we're going to get there. And I go really slow.
 
I flat tow but only since I bought the FWC. No issues to date. HOWEVER, this past weekend I flat towed home and left Jeep attached overnight. Forgot to turn key back to locked position. In the morning battery in jeep was dead and had to jump start and then charge battery. I had been told to remove the neg battery cable but never have. Am I doing something wrong? Should I remove it? If I should I'll just add a breaker switch.
 
Depending on what Jeep, you may not have to do anything with the key. On our JK there's no steering wheel lock so once I get the transfer case set in neutral and the trans back in Park, it gets locked up and keys are in the truck. Maybe battery is getting border line and just leaving it "on" without running was enough to drain it.
 
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