Ultimate Weight Load Thread

PackRat

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 30, 2016
Messages
680
Location
Novato, CA
1988 XLT F-250 VIN Tag.jpg

1) note first of all that the GVWR is 8800 lbs
2) note the max weight the Front GAWR is 3920
3) note the max weight the Rear GAWR is 6084

These figures are based on what was ordered from the factory. My truck has a 460 gasser ad a C6 trans, has 4x4, has the Lariat extended cab and an 8' bed on it. What yours was ordered with will effect all three of these numbers above.

Now, you can't just add up the max for each axle (3920 plus 6084) as that comes to 10,004 lbs....because the max GVWR is only 8800 lbs! There is no discrepancy here; you can put a certain amount of weight on one axle as long as the other axle is not loaded to the point you have exceeded the GVWR of 8800 lbs.

In addition, the tag also shows the truck needs LT235R 16E tires (or better) and that the P series tires that come on the half-ton are not going to cut it for the weight of this vehicle.

Some of you may find that you are say, 100 or 200 lbs over the REAR axle GAWR. On my truck that would then be 6284 or 6384. This is of course, not factory advisable, however many choose to go that route. A key part of doing this would be if your GVWR was still UNDER the VIN tag rating (8800 for my truck). If this not only exceeded the rear GAWR but exceeded the GVWR....then you are overloaded. You can cosmetically correct the tail-dragging in the rear with springs/bags, etc. You are still overloaded, it just rides higher again which is visually better in my estimation.

This is a common question and is up to the poster to decide on...how much truck do I need and how much camper can I carry in it.

Just my 2 centavos here...
 
Hey PR.
I'll add a few comments to your tread ... submitted without prejudice :giggle: ...

PackRat said:
3) note the max weight the Rear GAWR is 6084
...
In addition, the tag also shows the truck needs LT235R 16E tires (or better) and that the P series tires that come on the half-ton are not going to cut it for the weight of this vehicle.
Just to further underscore your tag (T.I.P) comment, I'm pretty sure the vehicle mfr ensures the OE tires are load rated to at least the mfr's own GAWR and also posts the tire size and it's pressure required to meet this - as you've indicated. (both likely required by law)

True, I don't know if any P tires rated to carry 3000+ lbs each in a light truck application. I think the idea presented in the OP is to stay within the axle ratings. With that in mind, an owner may change out tires for their own reasons, but the mfr spec'd OE P series tires not being sufficiently load rated should not be one of them.


Some of you may find that you are say, 100 or 200 lbs over the REAR axle GAWR. .... This is of course, not factory advisable, however many choose to go that route. A key part of doing this would be if your GVWR was still UNDER the VIN tag rating (8800 for my truck).
You may have read in other weight threads that "the tires are the limiter for weight". While that may not always be the case, for your vehicle the mfr's RGAWR is exactly the max capacity of a pair of the tire size supplied (and on the door tag). If the GAWR is to be exceeded, I suggest the existing tire max load rating (and at what pressure) should be noted and duly considered.

Additionally, the OE wheel rim is likely to be rated by the vehicle mfr at no more then half the RGWVR (for a SRW)


This is a common question and is up to the poster to decide on...how much truck do I need and how much camper can I carry in it.
One consideration about adding weight to a vehicle, with respect to axle loading, is where that weight is placed in relation to said axle. Obviously if the weight is added directly on top of an axle that axle takes the entire weight, anywhere else and it will be distributed between the both front and rear axles. This can be calculated from the ratio of the distance of the weight's centre of gravity from the axle and the distance between the axle centrelines (vehicle wheelbase).

eg for a 140" WB vehicle:

120lb winch and bumper placed 35" forward of front axle (25%). effective axle load: +150lbs fr / -30lbs rr (rear axle is unloaded - for the math to work !)

1200lb camper placed 7" aft of rear axle (5%). effective load: -60 / +1260

500lb of stuff placed everywhere. harder to estimate !
 
My brain is pretty small for this discussion.

If one lifts the rear suspension, does that alter load at the front ?

Gotta keep it light.

David Graves
 
DavidGraves said:
My brain is pretty small for this discussion.

If one lifts the rear suspension, does that alter load at the front ?

Gotta keep it light.

David Graves
Sure does. Not a lot, but some. I'd worry more about brake balancing. As mentioned on the post i quoted above, the Toyota's sense the amount of weight in the back by how much the bed is sagging vs unloaded, and adjust the brake bias accordingly. Lift the truck up to level again with a load in it by using airbags or heavier springs, and now the truck as more weight in the back and doesn't know it, and doesn't adjust the brakes either.

While not catastrophic, it does make braking distances longer than they need to be.
 
I think this is only true for older Toyotas such as 1st gen (pre 2004) Tacomas. I know that current generation Tacomas don't have a brake proportioning valve. It was (is) standard practice to add a brake proportioning valve bracket equal to the height of your lift on these older trucks.

Vic Harder said:
It is worth reminding folks that lifting the rear may adversely affect braking. This post by PVSTOY shows how to adjust the brake bias on a Toyota...

http://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/topic/280-w-air-bags-is-your-brake-bias-adjusted-correct/
 
Thanks Vic

I knew that but just wanted to keep everyone's grey cells working.

Best thing to do is keep it as light as your travel needs allow and drive according to the load you carry,

We are driving trucks after all.

Cheers

David Graves
 

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