Webasto Diesel Heater conversion on my 2013 Hawk

[photohc]

Thought I would post this information for those who might be thinking of changing out your FWC installed Atwood propane heater.

Last year, after a couple of trips with 20 deg nightly temperatures, I decided to explore a diesel powered heater solution when I ran out of propane on both trips. I initially wanted to just remove the propane heater and install a diesel heater in it’s place but after some problem solving, I figured a way to open up the propane heater space and install the new diesel heater outside the camper to recapture the space for more storage.

This solution will not work for everyone but may spur some thoughts on the possibilities. First, my camper is mounted on the truck using the Torklift frame mount system. I previously had the bed mount on my older F150 but when I got my new truck (F250) in 2018, I decided to use the frame mount. My F150 (2013) showed signs of deformation in the bed due to the Hawk pulling up.

This allowed the area under the camper where the camper turn buckles are usually connected to be a free open space. The following photos will help to clarify how this is all installed.

I piped the heated air through the second access door. The inside air is not recirculated. Outside air under the camper is drawn in, heated and sent into the compartment. The 2KW heater is more than adequate for the job. Anything larger than this would be an overkill.

Initially, I had purchase an inexpensive Chinese Diesel Heater ($150) After receiving it, (they sent the wrong, 5kw, size) I set it up on a test bench and didn’t like the build quality and the larger size of the 5KW heater. I bit the bullet and purchased the German Webasto heater on eBay. I eventually sold the Chinese version on Craigslist.

The Webasto is hands down is the much better made product. I’m suppling the diesel fuel via the 2 gallon Rotopax container mounted (Rivet nuts, love those things) on the front wall of the camper. On my maiden journey with this new heater, in 20 deg night time weather with the heater on for 8 hours/night, the tank will probably last 4-5 nights. The heater will cycle off/on being regulated by the controller.

Hope this helps anyone looking for more information on this type of heater as I had a difficult time finding detailed install information for a FWC.

 

[astropuppy]

Very slick!

 

[ramblinChet]

Great post and thank you for the pictures. One of the reasons I decided to go with the Grandby shell is because I plan to install a Eberspächer or Webasto diesel heater. It would be great if that were a factory option.

Based upon you and a few others recommendations I too am installing the Torklift system on my RAM so I will have that space available to use. I had been thinking about using that area for water storage but that conflicts with my cold weather camping so I am still undecided on what to use that area for.

I did notice the forged eye bolts being used as part of your tie down system and wanted to mention that forged eye bolts, even those with shoulders, are never designed for 90° loads. If my memory serves me correctly, most are designed for a maximum of 45° and at that they lose 75% of their capacity.

Getting back to the diesel heaters, I have read where a few folks leave them on all night on the lowest setting even in the coldest of conditions and they say they work wonders.

 

[photohc]

Thanks for your feedback. The heater worked well during my inaugural trip last month. So far all is good with the heater.

Appreciate your comments on the eye bolts. I’ve had this since 2018, so far have not been a issue. What would you recommend as an alternative?

 

[Taku]

that is an interesting solution, thanks for the post

 

[ramblinChet]

Thanks for your feedback. The heater worked well during my inaugural trip last month. So far all is good with the heater.

Appreciate your comments on the eye bolts. I’ve had this since 2018, so far have not been a issue. What would you recommend as an alternative?

Great to hear the heater works so well - I just can't wait to install one and enjoy the warmth also.

It's a tough call on the eyebolts since I am not sure what the loads being encountered are especially since your Torklift has a spring to dampen and spread those loads. My plans were to pick up some flat stock about two inches longer than the lift brackets, drill three holes and bolt them onto the factory lift brackets. I would have that extra two inches hanging out the bottom and would just drill a large enough hole in the extension to install the hook.

My goal was just to share with you that those eyebolts were not designed to be used that way. They may be perfectly fine for your application although I at least wanted to share the info with you. I call manufacturers all the time and ask for installation data, charts, etc. and most are happy to supply. Even on the simple things like nuts and bolts.

 

[Mykiss]

If the turn buckles are in place, fitting the diesel heater in there won't work?
I am waiting on my ATC shell and was also planning on adding a diesel heater, skipping the propane system all together.I thought of mounting it inside but if could be installed like yours would be awesome.
There is a new chinese company Lavenar that brought their version of Espar on US market, and has better parts and good reviews for appx $200.

 

[photohc]

I've read about Lavenar but haven't seen their product to comment. They have an active English speaker doing their marketing and it seems to help get the word out.

If you use the internal mounted turn buckles, it will be difficult doing what I did. Both the front and rear (right side) access doors are not available to be used as the space is no longer available. The front access door is now blocked by the heater and and back access is now being used as the hot air vent into the interior. You may be able to figure out a different mounting configuration but those two areas were the most accessible to avoid the truck wheel well protrusion.

 

[fuzzymarindave]

Well done! Did you ditch propane all together or do you still have it for other appliances? I assume your truck is gasoline as you might have tried to tap into a diesel truck fuel tank for the heater?

 

[photohc]

I kept the propane as I still have the stove and water heater. We usually don't cook indoors so most of the propane is now used by the water heater. (Just can't convince the wife to take cold showers.) I'm intrigued with the on-demand heaters but it would be difficult to justify the expense. As it is, I blew my budget on this heater. Having the diesel heater now allows me to carry only one 10# tank instead of two and I can go a much longer without worry of running out of fuel. (added bonus is the additional storage space where the 2nd tank was.)

 

[Your Mileage May Vary]

I'm planning to add a Webasto heater to my ATC shell model. So I appreciate you sharing the report of your installation and your photos. Lots of wonderful ideas here. For example, I hadn't thought of using a Rotopax container as you have, and need to give that some consideration. I also love that you mounted it on the front wall. It would be less exposed to curious fingers.

For those reading this tread and considering a similar installation, here are a couple more things to consider.

Webasto makes a gasoline version of their "diesel" heater. As my truck has a gasoline engine, I like the idea of carring and needing to source only one type of fuel, and so this is what I plan on installing. The gasoline versions are a little harder to source as most of the Webasto heaters used in North America are installed in 18-wheeler type and other commercial vehicles that generally run on diesel.

Another option apart from the expensive Webasto and Espar diesel heaters, is the Planar Heaters https://planarheaters.com/ . They are, I believe, a Canadian company that has them made in Russia. Canadians and Russians should know about cold temperatures, right? The Planar Heaters are priced somewhere between the European and Chinese heaters and I have read good reports about them. Unfortunately for me, they don't have a gasoline option.

If anyone knows of any reasons not to go with the gasoline version, I'd love to hear your thoughts.

Hope this helps.

 

[photohc]

I think the gasoline version makes sense. I also have a gas engine but wanted the Webasto and only could source the diesel version here. I know you can source a gas version outside of the US but didn't want to deal with the issues if any problems developed in the delivery or the heater. I decided to go ahead with the diesel thinking that in most cases I would not have any issues finding a station that served both. On my last 2 week trip, I added 1 gal to the Rotopax after 7 nights of heating.

I highly recommend the Webasto heater. I did first buy a Chinese version and had it setup on my bench and just didn't like the build quality. The components on the Webasto is in another class. For example, the exhaust tube is twice the weight of the Chinese version. You could easily deform the tube with your fingers but not possible with the Webasto version. I eventually sold the Chinese heater on Craigslist.


Best to you on your install.

 

[Old Crow]

Here's an interesting and very thorough web page on Webasto/Espar heaters. I remember this guy being so frustrated with his Webasto that he also installed a Propex propane heater. But he worked through his Webasto problems and now prefers that one.

Far Out Ride's "Webasto/Espar Heater (Diesel or Gas) Heater for Van Life: Theory, Installation, and Review"

Lots of good info I've not seen elsewhere.

 

[ramblinChet]

Here's an interesting and very thorough web page on Webasto/Espar heaters...

Wow, that is one impressive article! Thank you for sharing your find.

 

[Your Mileage May Vary]

I think the gasoline version makes sense. I also have a gas engine but wanted the Webasto and only could source the diesel version here. I know you can source a gas version outside of the US but didn't want to deal with the issues if any problems developed in the delivery or the heater. I decided to go ahead with the diesel thinking that in most cases I would not have any issues finding a station that served both. On my last 2 week trip, I added 1 gal to the Rotopax after 7 nights of heating.

I highly recommend the Webasto heater. I did first buy a Chinese version and had it setup on my bench and just didn't like the build quality. The components on the Webasto is in another class. For example, the exhaust tube is twice the weight of the Chinese version. You could easily deform the tube with your fingers but not possible with the Webasto version. I eventually sold the Chinese heater on Craigslist.


Best to you on your install.

Thank you for the advice and recommendations. And again, thank you for posting this.

 

[Your Mileage May Vary]

Here's an interesting and very thorough web page on Webasto/Espar heaters. I remember this guy being so frustrated with his Webasto that he also installed a Propex propane heater. But he worked through his Webasto problems and now prefers that one.

Far Out Ride's "Webasto/Espar Heater (Diesel or Gas) Heater for Van Life: Theory, Installation, and Review"

Lots of good info I've not seen elsewhere.

Isabelle and Antoine self built the van a few years back, sold their home in Quebec, and hit the road full time. They have based themselves in B.C. If memory serves, they are both engineers, and their logic and build quality is next level and difficult to criticise. They share much of their build and ideas, and will sell you plans and the finer details. I'm guessing that's how they finance their Far Out Ride life on the road. I've been a fan for a while.

 

[Old Crow]

Another good resource for those considering or new to Webasto heaters:

Vanlife Outfitters Webasto Air Top 2000 STC Tech Talk - High Altitude

Concepts include:

- Max design altitude: 4900' (Evo40 = 7200')

- Can be run for relatively short periods (in days) at higher altitudes but heater should be run at max heat (to burn off carbon deposits) after returning below max design altitude

- Should be run at max heat monthly to burn off carbon deposits

- Adjusting for altitude is essentially adjusting how fast the fuel pump cycles

- Fuel line tubing is precisely matched in diameter to the heater's requirements -- do not substitute

- Don't use worm clamps

- Webasto fuel filter material is metal, others fiber

- A hard-working heater is a clean heater
.

 

[Jsoboti]

photohc,

After having the diesel heater for a few seasons, can you give us any info on the difference in winter camping? Are you able to maintain 40-50-ish degrees in the camper in cold climates without waking up to massive amounts on condensation? How often is the heater cycling on and off in cold temps? Have you used it at altitude above 7000 feet?

I mostly camp in the winter and due to excessive battery draw /propane usage/ condensation, I sleep with the heat off. I'm usually between 7000-8500' so it's pretty cold. Totally fine with a 0 degree sleeping bag and down comforter, but my girlfriend is not as stoked about that whole set-up as I am.

Really wondering if I'd be able to keep the camper dry, between 40-50 degrees with 0-15 degree ambient, and not run out of diesel in a weekend. If yes, I may have an upgrade in my future. Thanks