Well into the refurb

[Rusty]

involved in an few adjustments to the new CO for the newer truck....finding some interesting items along the way...

Things to remember

1. when remodeling one of these older Alaskans...try and stay with one screw head design fastener....preferably philips...although square head gives you a bit more torque...philips is common....I've removed, with some difficulty...torq head, hex head (with and without slots), standard slotted, mini philips, square head and a few clutch head and hybrid tamper proofs...why would someone want to install tamper proof screws in camper construction?

and a begillion 5/16" staples....initial construction of this one (in Seattle) was done with these smaller staples and 7/16'" staples...along with what I'm presuming is 3M 5200...(my favorite to apply and my least favorite to remove)

nothing more aggravating than changing tips on every other screw....argghh

2. clean areas to be caulked before applying caulk...I know, it seems simple...but some folks just don't get it...the caulking gets good adhesion to clean material (old caulk and paint residue removed)

3. don't use plumbers putty tape...the old school linseed oil putty which most of these were assembled with (and they still sell). There are lots of great adhesive sealants available these days...and if your rebuilding one of these...you can understand why you don't want to use it...it drys out, falls out....and leaks persist, then rot. use butyl tape and good quality polyurethanes as a finish

4. If you're going to paint something....take the time to mask things off...It may take a little time but the finished product shows your passion and intent....I'm scrubbing over spray off quite a bit on this one....another aggravation...

5. if you find yourself in the position of replacing a door hinge...don't replace it with a standard, steel, piano hinge...they rust, seize up and will cause you no end to grief...aluminum piano hinges are available...and if you really want to get snazzy...stainless hinges are available for boats...$$$

6. try and find appropriate materials to replace unavailable items....sometimes cross matches are good...some just don't make the grade..or the function...Ripper found a nice aluminum piece for the curve on the CO section...I'm removing counter top edging on mine mixed with floor trim....appropriate materials to fit the need...and keep it aluminum....if you haven't noticed...galvanized staples eat away the aluminum siding...noble metal chart....stainless or aluminum....zinc doesn't work with aluminum

maybe it's just that I don't seem to have the patience on this one I've had before. Could be "age related syndrome"

please add more...I think Ripper may have a few of these...after the rebuild he did

OK....Rant complete....

 

[Wandering Sagebrush]

Rant???? Sounded like good advice, learned by experience, to me...

 

[Ripperj]

I'll second sticking with as few screw types as possible. I have 3 that I recall, two sizes of square drive and #2 Phillips. I really was planning on all square drive, but got jammed up and didn't want to wait.
I actually didn't really find any trim I liked, it's all cut to width from Al angle on my cabinet saw, the curves are cut from 1/16" Al plate. After I drill the holes i had it all powder coated.
The corners of the lower section(part in bed, not the part that hangs over the bed rails) I used white polyvinyl corner trim. I figured the powder coat would get all beat up. This stuff is a bit thick, but the color is all the way through and it's pretty durable. I used 3M4000 and SS screws to hold it on.

Re your thread title. I think we need ground rules. You are not well in to the refurb unless you are able to drink a beer at least two consecutive New Years Eve in your partially completed rebuild. While drinking the beer you must be muttering to your self"i don't care what it takes, this year it goes on the truck"

 

[Rusty]

I don't care what it takes...it's going in the truck this afternoon....well almost....

Two consecutive new years....Endurance reaches a new level

I did get it in the truck...to measure height/cab clearance for the riser platform

Why do we do this

 

[Willys Addict]

Rusty at least you can put yours in the truck, they shut down most of the fresh water fishery on the Island so the panic is off for me now, just got hunting season, Oh right and Family stuff

 

[Ripperj]

I keep telling myself it's fun
Actually I really do enjoy building it(and other things). The frustration comes from it not being functional yet.

 

[Rusty]

I'm seriously getting to the point between Form and Function where one says....enough, lets go camping

latent Architect issues....

 

[Rusty]

Another special little detail inherent to Alaskans....when you're caulking the inside edge of the rain gutters...both front and rear

finish the caulking line just below the gutter end at the edge of the camper and leave a small drip or ball of caulking below the end of the gutter then pull the caulking gun down leaving a small string of caulking....looks like heck ....BUT

after the caulking is well cured....trim off all but about 1/4 inch long point below the edge of the camper....this will allow rain, fog and drizzle to drip off the caulking and not wick under the edge of the camper...

this is one of the entry points for water and damage to the corners of the camper. Make sure when you're caulking those corners that you smear an even coat of sealant over the point where the two pieces of pirelli come together at the corner...it'll be from the smear that the drip break will form.

 

[Willys Addict]

By the time I am ready for the caulking, the springs will be running.....

 

[Ripperj]

As much as it offends me, I'm going to buy some of that white poly RV stick on rain gutter and run it the whole length of both sides. It will be a straight line up tight to the cabover bottom trim, it will end up 4" above the big side windows. I'm not using eyebrows above the windows, too many unneeded holes. Will hopefully keep water from running over the window frame. I will probably also put a piece at the bottom of the 8' edge of the upper section to keep water from running under

 

[Rusty]

that "wicking" under the edge is the cause of several problems...additional holes from pirelli et al

I don't think many individuals involved at the outset of the company ever had in their wildest dreams that the campers would last as long as they have...let alone be the subject of restorations

you know...with some well placed 3M 5200 you probably wouldn't need holes on the eyebrows

 

[Ripperj]

I thought of trying that or 3m VHB tape. Both methods could result in crooked eyebrows and/or a big mess

 

[Rusty]

that VHB tape is a good idea....I've not used it but have heard some real impressive results using it.....

anything to minimize holes in the "boat"

cure time is about 36-48 hours with 5200...to firm.....any thicker lines would take a bit more....but at 7 days...it's tough to remove

 

[Ripperj]

I need to do some homework on the VHB, it's typically used for skins to flat framework. The eyebrows I have are recessed where the butyl tape and screws would go. Don't recall about the one that are available now(i believe you provided a link)
I'm not sure if the VHB comes "thick" 1/8"??

 

[Rusty]

durability technical bulletin;

http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/1217143O/technical-bulletin-3m-vhb-durability.PDF

gen info;

http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/764998O/iatd-product-info.pdf

availability from uline;

http://www.uline.com/Grp_240/3M-VHB-Tapes?pricode=WI849&AdKeyword=3m%20vhb&AdMatchtype=p&gclid=CKOri4Gc5M0CFZOCfgod5RQPcQ&gclsrc=aw.ds

it's available in thicknesses up to .060....about 1/16

I'd give it a shot...as a matter of fact...I'm putting 2 new 6' eyebrows on the CO......Hmmmm