Wiring/Plumbing: Adding Shower to Existing Setup, Want Input

nevadamerica

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Feb 4, 2015
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Reno/Tahoe
I'm considering looking into adding an external shower to my '97 Ranger II. Currently, I'm using the Shurflo faucet that sends power to the pump with its internal switch. If I am to add a shower outside, is this idea stupid (see diagram), or is there a better option that you see?
Thanks in advance!
 

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Hello nevadaamerica
I think the wire with the + up by the existing faucet is really still the - ground side of your circuit.
Liked your photos in the other thread.
Russ
 
CougarCouple said:
Hello nevadaamerica
I think the wire with the + up by the existing faucet is really still the - ground side of your circuit.
Liked your photos in the other thread.
Russ
Think it really matters which side of the pump the faucet switch is on? Current just passes through...shouldn’t matter if it’s before or after the pump. Either way, the switch may already be in front of the pump wiring-wise, I can’t remember how I wired it, but that’s not really what I’m getting after with the thread subject. Maybe I should rephrase, I’m fairly certain this wiring should function correctly.
 
Looks good.

Only thing I would change is a valve to determine whether the water goes to the faucet or the shower. That way you don't end up with standing water in the faucet line, if youre using the shower, and vice versa.
 
So Cal Adventurer said:
Looks good.

Only thing I would change is a valve to determine whether the water goes to the faucet or the shower. That way you don't end up with standing water in the faucet line, if youre using the shower, and vice versa.
Not a bad call, I do empty the system after every trip, think that’ll be enough?
 
nevadamerica said:
Think it really matters which side of the pump the faucet switch is on? Current just passes through...shouldn’t matter if it’s before or after the pump. Either way, the switch may already be in front of the pump wiring-wise, I can’t remember how I wired it, but that’s not really what I’m getting after with the thread subject. Maybe I should rephrase, I’m fairly certain this wiring should function correctly.
Morning
Yeah kinda does matter, but yes your wiring diagram will start stop the pump. Not sure I'd go to the trouble to determine if the water is going to the shower or faucet. An isolation valve after the "T" to the shower head sounds like a good idea, a lot of those shower heads do drip, that way you only charge the shower line when you use it. Are you going to use pex or wersbo to plum the shower?

Russ
 
CougarCouple said:
Morning
Yeah kinda does matter, but yes your wiring diagram will start stop the pump. Not sure I'd go to the trouble to determine if the water is going to the shower or faucet. An isolation valve after the "T" to the shower head sounds like a good idea, a lot of those shower heads do drip, that way you only charge the shower line when you use it. Are you going to use pex or wersbo to plum the shower?

Russ
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v319/jettncab/OldBlue/MIsc/ShurFloWiring_zpsyrmxr5t1.png

This is the same wiring except it’s before the pump. Although it’s probably already wired this way, why would this really matter if the switch is before or after the pump?
Probably PEX? Is either preferred?
 
Morning nvamerica
I believe that interrupting power as close to battery after fuse is best. That said I’m not a design engineer. Having a wire from the positive terminal then fuse thru the motor windings then to a switch then to the negative means anytime that wire grounds out you have a circut. I probably should have been more specific than I was sorry for that.
Our water pump has a pressure cut out does yours? Reason I ask if it does, plumb the outside shower using an isolation valve, when you want to use it pump line pressure drops pump runs, turning valve off takes it out of loop no wiring needed. I just ran some pet for the water heater thought it was pretty meet stuff.

Russ
 
We have the shower option in our 2016 Grandby but opt to use our garden sprayer conversion for the water instead of the onboard pump. The reason is the pump uses way too much water for camping in Baja and the 3 gallon sprayer with the 8 foot hose will give us each a couple of showers. I think we have only used the pump once.
 
Russ and Rich, exactly the input I’m looking for and thank you both very much. My pump does have a pressure switch, but the reason I have the additional wiring was because the sink I use is the only way the pump gets power so the electrical must be on first, then the pressure switch would engage, hence the spdt electrical switch, but now I would guess those faucets would run the same as the non-switched versions if you just bypass the switch. Rich, are you just talking about the bug/stain sprayers that you can pump with he handle? They’re typically white?
 
Our sprayer is grey, we bought it at a farm supply. It has a metal valve handle and a wand that can be removed and the nozzle screwed on to the valve handle. I changed out the hose with an 8' piece of fuel line. We heat the water on the stove, equal parts boiling water and the ambient water in the tank give a nice warm shower. I suppose you could just fill it with hot water out of the tap, although down in baja we only run purified water in the camper and use non purified water for showers.

Our sprayer is a Chapin Professional 3 gal. A 2 gal would work also and would be easier because you wouldn't have to heat so much water. I found them at Walmart on line. Be sure to get the metal valve and nozzle.

Don't heat them in the sun as algae could build up over time and you need to clean them with bleach.
 

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