FWC Single Sheet Roof "Tin Canning"...Why?

Wallowa

Double Ought
Joined
Nov 4, 2015
Messages
2,189
Location
NE Oregon
I have increased roof "tin canning" during windy conditions. My 2016 Hawk has the single sheet aluminum roof panel. Why this popping of the roof in a wind has been increasing is a mystery.

I do not know how the roof panel is attached to the roof frame of the Hawk. I suspect it is glued to the frame; hence after miles of rough off-roading the glue is failing and the roof panel begins to flap more.

How is the roof panel secured to the frame?

Can anything be done to lessen the "tin canning"?

My Hawk roof has the FWC Yakima rails with two Zamp solar panels [170/160w] and two fans.

Thanks for any insights.

Phil
 
Wallowa, in the past there were several treads on WTW concerning the oil canning issue when FWC started using the rolls of smooth aluminum for roof material. The most recent, and maybe most relevant, post I could find is post #6 in this topic - New Camper and First Trip - by member camper rich from October 2020 -
"I'm glad your Grandby has been trouble free. Ours needed to go back to the factory due to an oil canning issue with the roof"

Previous topics that may be of some help -

Roof Oil Cans in Wind

My Roof is Popping Like an Oil Can

Update on 'Oil Canning" Issue
 
Ski...thanks...I do now remember these posts...but none of them really define a definitive cause of oil canning or an effective repair/resolution.

Lots of speculation but I do not believe FWC has announced the cause of the oil canning.

Our 2016 Hawk only oilcans with top up and not when traveling....as I said after a brutal series of tracks recently, we had a sleepless night while the top popped like a firearm in sycn with the wind....not something you can sleep through..I believe our top sheet is distorted and loose.

Lots of variables to be certain; but "human error" is in my estimation a kiss-off. I have not heard if or how the single aluminum top sheet is attached to the roof frame. Short of carrying many small sand bags to spread on the roof in a wind I believe revisiting the attachment of the top sheet attachment to the top frame would lead to defining the cause; but then the solution of replacing the entire sheet is probably a non-starter for many reasons. two of which would be money and time.

Now where can I buy small sand bags......

Phil

Ps...If FWC is "listening" now would be great time to speak up...
 
Just curious, do you have any tracks on the roof for racks? Might help and better than sand bags?

I only have had O.C. one time and that was driving through the desert. We were going straight into strongest wind I have ever experienced. It sounded like the solar panel ripped off and was flopping around. I pulled over to look and could hardly even open the door. I climbed out and while being violently sandblasted, I looked up on the roof. Everything was still intact but the roof had a big dent in it. The dent has since then popped back out and we, (even in significant wind) have not be revisited by the O.C.

I do have the Yakima tracks up their that run dang near the length of the roof. I feel these may add an extra layer of structure and stability in their own way? I think if you camp in winds in excess of 40mph, it's always a wild ride. That said, I'm impressed that when sleeping the actually amount of intense wind the camper (and us :) can endure.
 
I have a 2013 Grandby and also have the same issue and would love to hear a solution.

I do have yakima tracks on the rear with a solar panel running east/west... wondering if adding more towards the front is maybe a solution to help eliminate the noise.. it definitely makes for some sleepless nights..
 
While weight may help stabilize the top sheet, it seems that is a hit or miss thing, where and how much is indeterminant ....I have the FWC installed Yakima racks with two heavy Zamp solar panels [160/170w] and two Fantastic power roof vents [fore and aft] yet the booming continues and is unpredictable in terms of wind velocity or direction. I have never heard it while driving and top down; my assumption is that down and latched the top sheet has more stability.

I was joking about the sand bags, but in retrospect I may try carrying 4 bags with about 5lbs of sand in each and with a long lanyard to place them and retrieve them once top is up when there is high winds.....pushing up the top with 20+ more lbs would be tough...place them and drag them off before dropping the top with lanyard [line]..

OK....somebody contact FWC and try to get a straight answer....adhesive or tape securing top sheet has seemingly failed; no good solution, since I do not want a new top sheet with all the mountings I have in place for my solar panels..alternative, not for me since puncturing the skin of my Hawk is a no-no, would be screwing the top sheet down to the roof frame...yes, I am paranoid about water leaks from screws or fasteners of any kind putting holes in the Hawk skin..

Overall, we love our Hawk and it has been tough and functional....but not good to be blown off by FWC when problems occur..silence may be golden, but not good customer relations.

Phil
 
Wallowa said:
<snip>

OK....somebody contact FWC and try to get a straight answer....adhesive or tape securing top sheet has seemingly failed; no good solution, since I do not want a new top sheet with all the mountings I have in place for my solar panels..alternative, not for me since puncturing the skin of my Hawk is a no-no, would be screwing the top sheet down to the roof frame...yes, I am paranoid about water leaks from screws or fasteners of any kind putting holes in the Hawk skin..

<snip>

Phil
Your voice may be the one that’s needed, I gave up when I had the problem.
 
Wandering Sagebrush said:
Your voice may be the one that’s needed, I gave up when I had the problem.

Emailed Brenda and Stan....asking them to read this forum topic and respond...Stan just replied that he is out of office on a trip for FWC and would respond when he returns...nothing yet from Brenda....

Hopefully they will respond on this forum...I have a very positive history with Stan; good guy.

Phil
 
Wallowa said:
Emailed Brenda and Stan....asking them to read this forum topic and respond...Stan just replied that he is out of office on a trip for FWC and would respond when he returns...nothing yet from Brenda....

Hopefully they will respond on this forum...I have a very positive history with Stan; good guy.

Phil
Brenda is also awesome and has been very attentive when
helping me on several occasions.
 
We have the same issue on our 2017 hawk flatbed. When I wash the roof with a long handled brush, the aluminum is so floppy that I have always assumed that there is no attachment to the frame other than where the tracks pinch it down..
John
 
since your yakima tracks are either screwed or riveted to the roof frame, i assume you could also screw/rivet the roof to other roof framing. once the holes are drilled , figure some sealant into the hole, and then rivet it down ?? that appears to be how my tracks, and solar panel brackets are attached.
go
 
Dirtroadsavant said:
We have the same issue on our 2017 hawk flatbed. When I wash the roof with a long handled brush, the aluminum is so floppy that I have always assumed that there is no attachment to the frame other than where the tracks pinch it down..
John

Yup...floppy is a good description....I am trying to figure out where I can place my "sand bags" for them to be effective....with two panels and 2 vents + rails, not much open space to configure them on....can't go under panels..and permanently affixing steel or aluminum bars on the top sheet would make the top too damn heavy for an old man like me!

Phil
 
goinoregon said:
since your yakima tracks are either screwed or riveted to the roof frame, i assume you could also screw/rivet the roof to other roof framing. once the holes are drilled , figure some sealant into the hole, and then rivet it down ?? that appears to be how my tracks, and solar panel brackets are attached.
go

yes...look down into the Yakama tracks/rails and you will see the screws, with a little white sealant at each screw. My FWC mounted 160w Zamp solid panel panel does mount to these rails with sliders inside the rail; my added 170w Zamp solid panel is mounted just outside the rails on provided mounting towers [with a special adhesive] that matches the height of the FWC panel and I added an aluminum "L" bar between the rails at the front edge of my 170w panel for support to and augment the towers. Both panels are at the same height and slightly above the two vents but neither interferes with the vents.

Yes, one could screw the top sheet to the roof frame; but, in my case I would have to remove the panels to do that, find exactly where the roof support beams are, place screws with sealant and then, for me, worry about leaks. Where and how many screws to place would be a guessing game for me. Water tight integrity is a priority for me.

Phil
 
Casa....agreed it seems like the only retro solution...retro is the key word; if FWC had properly secured the top sheet during construction all this would be a moot point...I will play with my sand bag approach...wonder if gluing a thin light weight material [strips or sheet] on top of the top sheet would stiffen it sufficient to stop the canning and still allow me to raise the top?

Too bad I don't drink single malts anymore; alternative method of sleeping... :cool:

Phil

Will give Marty a jingle...thanks.
 
I considered using fiber glass battens (think sail battens) glued to the top, but decided to not pursue that approach. It might work.


<snip>
I will play with my sand bag approach...wonder if gluing a thin light weight material [strips or sheet] on top of the top sheet would stiffen it sufficient to stop the canning and still allow me to raise the top?
<snip>
 

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