Search results

I've had problems with the crud from the anode clogging the faucet so I drain and clean the tank regularly. I use a socket with an extension to remove the anode plug with no problems.

Williak, Like you I mounted my panel to the Yakima rails. I had read that panel heat was a problem and air circulation under the panel was needed. I ended up putting 1 inch aluminum spacers between the angle and the rails to lift the panel off the roof.

I installed a Truckfridge TF130 to replace my 3CF Norcold. It seems to work well. The only downside I've discovered so far is that the freezer is a little small and the door shelves aren't adjustable. I ordered the 12v model because my inverter handles the 120v / 12v conversion. The Truckfridge...

I've never been impressed with Fresno - too hot and smoggy. But as craig says there are some nice areas near there. I have friends that live in the Shaver Lake area and commute into town.

Did you smell ammonia in the camper? That is the clue that there is a refrigerant leak. I believe the Norcold warranty is 3 years but you have to have had it serviced by a Norcold tech at 1 year. My 3cf Norcold dumped its ammonia a couple of months ago and I replaced it with a Truck Fridge...

The Surepower instructions say not to mount it in the engine compartment. Being either dumb or stubborn I mounted mine there and haven't had any problems in 6 years. I did mount it as far from the exhaust system as I could.

There is no aluminum in the floor. You're better off going through the wood floor pack as it's stronger than the aluminum frame.

I have 2 flooded cell batteries in the truck and 2 AGMs in the camper connected through a battery separator. I just added solar and haven't had any problems.

There have been several threads on extension brackets and I've wondered if anyone has ever tried just bolting a 2x6 or 2x8 across the front of the camper and then bolting the jacks to the board. Not pretty but cheap.

I have the flood lights supplied by FWC but rarely use them because they suck so much power (over 8 amps). I may replace them with LEDs in the future but I'm not sure I really need or want them. If I was to reorder my camper that would be the first option I would eliminate.

The purpose of having your camper attached to the truck electrical system is to charge the camper battery while you drive.

It should be noted that the battery voltage should be checked with no load on the battery. Any load will drop the voltage below the true static charge.

Being lazy can be costly. Last weekend I was heading into camp at Pismo and decided to just tow the Jeep instead of unhooking it and driving it in separately. Went down a small, 2 ft, drop off and heard a loud crunch - this can't be good. Got out and the camper door is hanging on 1 hinge and...

The load light probably indicates the load circuit is active and the 15 amp limit hasn't been exceeded. The controller should trip at 15 amps and may need to be reset. My Morningstar controller does this automatically.

I hang my solar shower from my Yakima rack without any problems. Before I pop the top I run a rope over the rack then hoist the shower after the roof is lifted.

It looks like there is also a screw under the monitor that isn't indicated. I also remove the strip on the bench next to the panel you want to remove. The first time I took it off it was kind of a press fit and required a little persuasion.

I carry 2 kayaks using Yakima Hully rollers and saddles. I also added a cross bar at the rear so the kayak doesn't slide on the edge of the camper. I use a 3 step stool to attach the tie downs.

What year is your camper? It's an '06

After installing my Truckfridge TF130 it was time to add some solar power. Using the wisdom of my fellow wanders I ordered the panel, controller and monitor. Got everything installed today and found the wires in the roof exactly where Terry said they would be. Hooked up all the wiring and...

My camper came from the factory with a MARINCO trolling motor connector. This is a 3 pole connector but only 2 poles were used - 12 volt and ground.

The original battery in my '06 FWC was an Optima blue top.

The load is the amount of current required when everything in the camper is turned on plus the current required to charge the batteries. As pods8 said batteries have internal resistance which will limit the current unless you have a shorted battery. If you do have a shorted battery you don't...

Well I have some news. I think the 50amp breakers are to small, atleast for my 99 Dodge Diesel. The alternator puts out atleast 120 so I am going with 120amp breakers. Also, it seems to me the 6 gage might be a little small, it would be better to go with 4 gage. A marine electrician was telling...

My Norcold N300 fridge barfed up it's ammonia in Baja and is now sitting in my driveway. Anybody interested in parts - shelves, bins, controls, etc - let me know before it goes to the dump.