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And if you are in the market for a Truck Camper, definitely visit the Truck Camper Rally in Quartzite in February. Info is on his website here: https://www.eventbrite.com/e/2023-truck-camper-adventure-boondocking-rally-in-quartzsite-registration-271153897607?aff=ebdssbdestsearch

I'm not sure what side stress you're referring to. Many of the really large truck campers (Host, etc) weighing 4000 pounds plus use Torklift tie downs to secure campers with no issues. As I stated, I added some side gussets and the camper has never moved, even on pretty significant off road...

Alumline

I can help with 2 of the 3. Getting the camper centered -- as we are lowering it and it is an inch or so above the bed, its pretty easy to push it from side to side a bit to get it centered on the flatbed. Even with a rubber pad down, it can still shift, especially off road so I added some...

Discount Tire has never had a problem with the camper on the truck anywhere in the country I've used them.

I had the same issue with my Bundutec Camper. My solution was to cut a 2x6 into short pieces and then stack 4 together - on all four corners. The jacks don't have to lift as high and the twisting was greatly reduced.

I'd second Borrego Springs. We've been renting there for years and you are surrounded by almost unlimited offroading.

I drove it east from Bartlesville, OK to Virginia in a Ram 3500 carrying a camper. There are a few tight spots and one detour but the rest is totally doable.

Build your own. A roll or two of Reflextix and some velcro and you could be out less than $200. The FWC one retails for close to $800.

My genius wife uses two of these to stack plates and other flat item in a cabinet.

Thanks everyone for the sage advice.

I have a 2015 Ram 3500 with 105,000 miles upon which I carry a 2000 pound camper. I updated the rotors and pads about 40k ago. I am hoping to keep this rig for years to come and am working through replacing components that could fail given the truck's age and mileage. One such component are...

Confused. Ad on Vantrader says selling price is $50k.

Not a FWC but a flatbed. Utilizing the jack brackets, I built a rack out of aluminum tubing that can carry a lot of stuff. I found an old Yakima hitch mount, cut off the bottom and bolted it to the rack. 70 plus thousand miles, many on rough roads and the bikes have traveled just fine. I have...

Make sure you plug the seat post if you remove the post. Any moisture down that tube and the frame, if steel, will start rusting quickly. Use a product called Frame Saver and spray it liberally down there to prevent corrosion.

That lip with the holes looks pretty thin to secure the camper too. The good news is it keeps the camper from moving sideways. It’s hard to tell from the pictures but is the aluminum below that lip beefier? I used the fast guns to connect to some of the thickest parts of the flatbed.

Yes. They work well.

Here you go.

Let me see what I can find

FWIW, I remove my camper several times a year. Reasons you might want to include: 1. you need to haul something other than the camper (lumber, etc); 2. you need the truck serviced but the garage you use either doesn't have a door high enough or a lift strong enough to lift the combined weight...

No worries. I just came off White Rim Trail in Canyonlands and while I never needed them, it was nice to know they were accessible.

Here it is with boards installed.

I have a Rigid from Home Depot that uses the same battery as my drill.