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Dennis Depending on how old your Alaskan is, that will have something to do with the wear & tear on the locking mechanism. I had a late 60's (I think?) for a couple years and then a 1976 C/O 8' on my truck right now. With that in mind, I can't comment on the newer campers but I would suspect...

With an 8' CO on my F-250 Lariat (jump seat behind front seats but no doors), the two of us decided on a two-bag system. We each have a bag in the camper and a bag in a bin in the truck. Rotate clothes or other items but be aware of BEARS so no food goes in the truck cab. They KNOW about food...

Have you checked the manuals? Maybe call the factory? Maybe unscrew a stop that prevents sliding that gunky panel away from the screen for cleaning?

Your question seems directed towards ordering a new Alaskan and as a part of that, do you need a flatbed for any other reason than to order one with side doors. OK, my response is in regard to my older 1960s NCO and my current 1976 CO. 1) the NCO requires sleeping east/west so climbing over...

If you have added a 2x4 or other similar dimension wooden frame/supports to raise the camper because your truck bed sidewall is much taller than back in the day, this may work for you..... As you know, the floor and sidewalls and front/rear walls are not really very well designed for 50-60...

My 1976 Alaskan has FIVE clearance lights in front and FIVE at the rear. It has another clearance light and a reflector at the front of each side and another clearance light and reflector at the rear of the side panel. Total oval clearance lights = 14 Total oval reflectors = 4 Clearance light...

One of the weak construction features on any wooden camper is the floor to sidewall joint. As it is possible for rain to get into the truck bed and wet that joint, it can soften the wood over time. The best suggestion I can offer you is to fully support the entire floor of the camper using a...

I would suggest that all Alaskan owners mount their portable fire extinguisher where the table converts to their bunk instea of near the stove or heater…..or, have two of them, each near those locations. A camper is an excellent example of the basic instinct of most life forms: "Fight or...

That plastic stuff that hides the screw heads is on old-time solution to hiding the screws. If you have a boat/RV/camper parts and supplies vendor nearby, show them the pic and they probably stock it on a roll. Measure the width of the "Jaws" and on and end view, how wide the insert should be...

David....given that you need to fork out some cash for gizmos you probably won't be using enough to justify their purchase, let me ask a couple simple questions. 1) as long as the source is higher than the end of your service, gravity should work out OK for you, right? 2) if you have enough...

Give the folks at Alaskan a call to see if Brian or any of his shop guys can answer your questions. If you know the ex-owner bought it new, they may have a build sheet for it in their files. Barring that, tracing down where the wires come from and lead to (if possible) may help you out that way...

Buy FOUR of the Reicos.....

Cell phone carriers and cell phone charges/plans do differ. I'm in Marin County and most of the ATT guys have had it and moved to Verizon. Its just that dropout coming north on the 101 down the hill out of the rainbow tunnel that gets ya every time. Sometimes going south just before you get OUT...

I think that no matter which truck or camper you have that securing the camper boils down like this: 1) you don't want fore-and-aft movement when underway so they need to be installed at angles that prevent that 2) you don't really want any side-to-side movement so if you have any angle on the...

My driveway is half-sloped...meaning the camper and the jacks for it are more or less on a flat section. The rear tires are, of course on the flat section, but the front tires are on the sloped section. I drive in backwards and then put my small leveling ramps I use out in the boonies behind the...

As long as you have completed your replacement of the Pirelli seal and perhaps some insulating strips around the door to seal out drafts, the functionality is fine. I like the ability to open just the top door for fresh air (using the screen of course to keep out flying insects) while keeping...

I carry an Estwing hatchet and one of those saws with a kinda "D" shape to it but more pointed at the business end and with a rubber handle on the "taller" end. Most importantly, are they SHARP! I can sharpen the hatchet, but depending on how much use the saw gets, I just replace the 24" (?)...

As wallowa has mentioned, we keep an "idiot list" for camping. One list that includes our personal items as well as everything else we take with us from food, clothes, pot & pans, to matches, bricquettes and tools. It includes where it is to be carried, in the truck or in the camper or in my...

If you happen to be pulling into a campground in the afternoon as campers return to their rigs/tents that are just a little more rustic (read: vault toilets and no power in your campsite) or the road a bit more rustic (read: unpaved), when you pump up the top and lock in the front panels, you...

Then you could just measure how much Pirelli seal you need and order it from Bryan at Alaskan. I replaced mine in the C/O section and aside from down at the side hinge areas which is kinda pinched due to where the center section folds back on them there is NO light coming through the seals when...

What shape is the rest of the Pirelli seal material on the sides of the camper? Eventually it ALL degrades, but that stuff has a cord in it like your tires do that allows it to flex but keeps a tight seal. Buying a roll from Bryan at Alaskan and doing the inside and outside edges on sides/rear...

Rico's solution sounds pretty good. They are cheap enough that after they wear out in a season or two, you can toss them (or use them on your shop floor) and buy new ones.....I have used a very cheap industrial, low pile carpet in my Alaskans but I'm not a winter camper so I think that...

Just be sure you are looking for at least a 3/4 ton longbed pickup. A big V-8. gas or diesel, twin gas tanks. Maybe 4x4. A crew cab is nice, but the truck starts to get a bit hard to negotiate in the cities. I'd suggest the models with a jump seat but not four doors as that gets really long even...

1) an F350 won't "squat" much with an 8.5' Alaskan in there. 2) depending on the bed to bed rail height and the height of the camper lower section to where it overhangs the bed rails, it may be necessary to RAISE the camper enough to clear them 3) Call Bryan and ask how much they suggest raising...

There was a time around the late '70s early '80s when something like particleboard was used for the cabinetry. When it gets wet, it swells up and fails. There are some threads about that here on WTW I believe. That may have something to do with the gap between the early and more modern used...