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sounds pretty bulletproof.....the upper door takes more uv than any other part...hence the deterioration of many.... couple questions Willys....White marine Tex?.....arborite?.....please esplain Ricky

you may not need to flush the system...unless you suspect dirt or some kind of contamination in the fluid. ours has been in the family for 46 years and it still has the same fluid...o-rings replaced about every 4-6 years...just because we use it alot...and it's up and down a couple times a...

Willys....a series of pics rebuilding the top door would be a valuable addition to the archives....did you by any chance take any?....if you didn't maybe we could talk Nixfwc to take some I have a sneaking idea that I may be doing the same project as soon as I finish building this Ark and...

If you're just changing the o-rings ..you don't have to remove the rams to change the orings.... pump it up to the top and pin it (all 4 corners) on the highest mark. cut yourself a broomstick 22 5/8" long with all the pins in place....push up slightly on the corner you are replacing and...

Campgrounds, fairgrounds, hotels, Beale AFB...all are in participation in the 99/70 corridor.... I-5 corridor should be OK for traffic and fuel....It's going to be sketchy for camping for a week or so Coast should be fine all the way down...camping would probably be a bit better that way too

I've only seen this once before...it was because of a heavy weighted container mounted on the back and the camper had been parked over winter on a sloped drive....the frame had been held in the same position for a year or two...and when the camper was moved...the top section stayed in that...

the last pic has a latch of some type which the top is resting on (mounted on the bottom half)...what is that latch?...does it have to be in the up position?

reading this makes my old head hurt... :wacko:

could you take a picture?....please...descriptions of door swings and positions are difficult to imagine inside and out...open and closed....I love door issues ;)

be quick on the trigger....there are alot of folks looking for them........ :ph34r:........

Chuck, Bekins has a scale in Santa Rosa ...I had my boat weighed there

Don't give up on Happijack....the system can be easily adjusted to fit any truck.... and you can find them just hanging around sometimes :D Torqlift is way too much pressure for a plywood and pine frame happijack tiedowns fit nicely into the reico brackets too...add derringer quick releases...

hear hear

If I'm not mistaken...the rear rack bolts are for the hydraulic cylinder brackets inside.....don't try to raise the top without replacing them....you'll end up with new ventilation holes in the roof scratches just make it much easier to drive into the back woods without worrying about the finish ;)

Congratulations....... I'm soooooo jealous............... ;) pictures when you have them please a low mileage, 3/4 or 1 ton single rear wheel....the 1 ton leaves you the option of really loading the camper up and towing a little something without going over gross weight limits....(especially...

So the system is re-assembled now and no leaks are obvious...... try this...open the valve at the pump the same as if you are lowering the top pump for 1-2 minutes...then close the valve and check your fluid level...if it's low (and it should be)...refill and repeat the procedure, 2 or 3 times...

Welcome to the group It's not clear whether you're lifting after repairing the cylinders or from the down position?.....

always a first...every day a new something..... 4x4's bolted to reico brackets for lifting...I'm assuming?...Maybe for clearance on a 1 ton dually the storage loops are even there for storing the reico jacks while underway...did the jacks come with the purchase? make sure you're well covered...

Welcome Anewway.... huddle in real close and you'll probably get your answer...I'd be happy to but..I don't have a heater, let alone a switch here's a pdf of operating instructions http://www.fourwheelcampers.com/atwoodfurnaceinstructions.pdf since the pdf comes from FWC...I'd search the...

nothing ever fits "perfectly".....but Rippers piece is as close as it gets..... now a bead of caulk on the outboard side will stop the "wicking" back under ;)

When your pirelli starts cracking on the surface it's time to start thinking about replacing it. I just finished salvaging a 59 Alaskan...and the pirelli was absolutely shredded....far beyond usefulness...well into uselessness.... it's important, as Pack Rats has pointed out...to help retain...

Boonie.....copper sheeting extending full width of the enclosure from the coils down to the mid point of the enclosure. Two computer fans mounted on the copper sheet pull air down from the top of the enclosure....it's an Alaskan so there are minimum clearances. There are photos in my gallery...

I've been running absorption/120v for quite some time...maybe 20+ or so....great frig but the newer brushless motors are really efficient little critters and don't draw that much juice. I installed a copper heat sinc into the frig install and it works well with the two computer fans I put in...

take a look at these for bumper types, various widths, shapes and sizes...the harder rubber is what you're looking for to get that bed front separation...