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I've never seen a weight estimate at 750, but that's not to say "from some people" wouldn't tell you whatever it took.....there is a weight for a utility 8' nco which is inaccurate in one of the original single page publications....if you check the bottom of that page it claims to include 20 gal...

1500 is too light weight to carry it a long distance....if you're just moving it around the corner...it'll work I'll tag another thread with those weights on it http://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/topic/13088-older-nco-weights/ the bags won't make the truck carry more weight...they'll...

Well done! another construction guy I see and frugal as well

A true "Karnac" moment....glad it worked out well Typically the bottom of the cylinders are supported by a 1-1 1/2" strip of plywood on end, extending to the floor and attached to the wall of the lower half (check the length with one of the other 3 locations)...the bottom of the cylinder flange...

a picture?....something doesn't sound right check the height of the cylinder just opposite...on the right side....Same height, floor to the bottom of the cylinder? "1/4" away from the pump" doesn't sound right...usually the fitting is on the front of the tube and easily accessible....My...

block the top and you can disconnect the cylinder from the line. at the bottom of the tube there is either a flare fitting or a compression fitting. The tube releases from the wall at the top and several locations along its length. No need to remove the pump paper towels....lots of paper...

what he said.... :D fold a paper towel till you have a strip about 3/4" wide.....wrap it around the cylinder just below the nut....now hold that pose for a few minutes....most likely less if its an oring....try tieing the towel off with a zip tie and then pump..... :o

hope springs eternal....... :wacko:

it's going to float a bit....and change from moment to moment....don't stress shim till it works best for you then remember how you did it....(or attach them to the underside of the bottom half...with a little foam on the bottom to fill in the blanks..... :D )

Those Reico thd's are the best for the camper....but std 1500# reicos will work as well....and you can find them on craigslist from time to time....the box extensions are the trick with the duallys...and they will work with the 1500# jacks too with the dollys.....just be cautious of the level...

there's something else about that picture...the guide is on the side...as installed on the newer Alaskans...mine is a 73 and the guide is on the front of the section, just behind the curved portion..... the bolting of the guide and supporting hardware is problematic to the design of...

This camper sold in 3 days to someone from Colorado...purchased sight unseen...picked up and gone in 7 days

Those are nice jacks......sorry your project didn't work out....do you still have the camper or is it gone?

there's a set of these, with extensions on the gear exchange right now

you'll have to raise the top up quite a ways to clear enough to access the screws for the top guides....remove all 4 ram top bolts and lift up as straight as you can as not to damage the guides...there are 2 screws holding a retainer cap on top of the lower half guide.....depending on which...

Welcome, welcome Install the pirelli full width pushed out to the inside of the top section...then trim the excess and replace the cap It sounds like you have two old rods and two newer rods..(larger 1" rods). when you insert the pins and release the pressure the latching should fall into...

If you sell that 02-250 with the 7.3.....don't give it away...many are asking if I want to sell mine....(03) they are, after all...the last reliable diesel ford had......in a land far, far away....just had mine serviced and tuned....best 1000 spent ever

I'm glad to hear I'm not alone with the avoidance of new diesels....it seemed as if ford jumped off the 7.3 liter into a bottomless pit of errors, omissions and is trying to buy their way back in with astronomical/comical repair bills.... I'll keep my 7.3 till it dies...then resurrect it...when...

What a great trip.....on my list and has been for some time.....beautiful and grayling to boot....well done

last month she still had the doors give her a call Paula....904 654-5824

Welcome Karsonb.... mine...a 1970 10' non cab over dry weight...1780# wet and loaded for fishing...2080# you'll find most will fall between 1500-2000# dry and will "wet out" around 1800-2200# repairs, wood risers for new cab heights, and reico jacks account for most of the weight I totally...

Good advice......I've seen it bleed chemicals through lumber adjacent to it...and through things like drywall in a heartbeat...not nice stuff redwood or cedar..... depending on the truck you have....you may have to raise it 4" to clear the cab and the bedrails

The angle iron under the door should not be aluminum....it's angle iron...and about a 2x2 heavy angle with a cutout for the threshold....it's bolted to the bottom of the lower frame with carriage bolts. if someone replaced the iron with aluminum...that may esplain the swoopy doopy in the lower...

Welcome Yogabill.... There will always be a little Splay on the top...the end guides will keep it fairly straight.....the question is always..."does the door close and latch"...check the angle iron at the base of the lower door...if it's fractured you may have a little welding project. Years...

OMG....another project...... :D ...I saw that one coming with the other eco temp on Nixfwc's awning thread the hanger or the exhaust for the eco temp doesn't interfere with the pirelli or the top half? are those hydraulic hoses and fittings...?.....your build gets better and better... you've...