10' NCO Alaskan Camper Question

J

jagrote

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Apr 6, 2016
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Hello,

Thanks for this forum! Have enjoyed all the pics and helpful posts as I have been searching and exploring all I can to learn more about the Alaskan Campers. I want one!

Here are a couple questions:

1) I have found a 10' Alaskan in rebuildable shape. From the back of the truck the camper looks offset on the lower section that would be between the wheel wells. Why is this different from others I have seen?

2) I actually want an 8' camper to make it easier to pull a boat and other things when in route. Is it foolish to consider modifying a 10' down to 8'? Anyone have experience with this or am I just showing how niave I am about these campers?

Thanks for all of your help. Appreciate it!

Jeff
 
Unless you get it really cheap, or really like building things, I wouldn't cut it down. It's certainly doable with normal wood working tools, but it would take more effort than it would appear. You would have to cut the sheet metal roof twice so that you would have 3/4" ish to bend down over the relocated rear wall( that's at least how I would do it.

You may find rot that you didn't expect, and that can turn into an endless project.

If you do go that route, it would probably be quicker to make new rear walls, rather than try to salvage the old ones.

Hemet RV can make you whatever sheet metal you may need, Steve is the guy to talk to.
 
A 10' NCO will work just fine towing a boat...I do it all the time...and it's about a 3500 pound boat with 310# of tongue weight...check out my photo gallery...the stairs were built with a stinger in the middle for towing up to 375# of tongue weight...

the old Alaskans were built to fit straight through the old truck beds....some young engineer...with a "better" idea....built the tailgates on some of the newer trucks in further than the old campers were built to work with. You'll need to reduce the closet/refrigerator pop out on the passenger side rear of the camper by 2 1/2"...I'm about to embark on this very project on an old CO I picked up last year. It's a good opportunity to strengthen that corner if you plan on installing jacks.

I've had a NCO for a little over 25 years...great little campers

Welcome, lots of good info here

I totally forgot...there's a picture of truck and boat in the gallery too
 
Wow. Good comments there. I will check out the pictures and try to get some of my own up to further describe what I'm trying to say on the back of the camper. Thanks so much!
 
Hi Rusty- Yes, that is the heart of my question. Why again is there a side to side offset like that? I have seen others with a more even 12-16" overhang per side. Curious about the difference and what mods are needed. Forgive me for not completely understanding your first comments on the "Older Alaskans, etc" Thanks much!
 
the older alaskans were built for a "full" tailgate width....straight down on the sides....if you look at the newer pickups the bed wall where the tailgate engages is brought in further than on the older pickups.

I've not seen 12" askew but if you were carrying one unconnected I could see where one could get "caddy wampus" easily....

Maybe a stepside pickup?

It's really a fairly easy fix.....only the rear section on the passenger side...forward to the wheel well break needs to be adjusted. take off the molding, remove the siding from the short section forward to the break, measure the 2.5" section to be removed on both the rear section and the narrow forward section at the wheel well return....cut the siding with a utility knife (cuts easily), cut the plywood with a sawzall or a handsaw if you're ancient like me...cut the floor the same distance back.....

reside using the same plywood or new if it's deteriorated and a new piece of plywood for the cantilever section (this is where you may want to stiffen things up for jack installation. ie; 3/4 ply with some additional bracing and glue blocked corners.

looking at the interior of the closet you'll see the small step at the rear....that will come in 2.5" further into the closet and is where you may want to add some additional plywood for the jack plate installation

I'm going to make up a series of photos when I do mine. It'll be much easier with pics.

use waterproof glue...treat the camper like an inverted boat...every hole is trouble...use the best materials available and your camper will last a lifetime...or 4 ;)
 
No I understand. Thanks Rusty. I do look forward to seeing pics when you get it done! Thanks a bunch. Oh and i found a pic of the two I am looking at. Let me know what you think if you have time. Much appreciated again.

jeff ac back.png
 
In the pic in post #8,is the part that hangs over the truck bed rails the same on both sides? And just the door is offset to one side? The door could be offset to clear a cabinet, a different seating arrangement, maybe a portapoti?
 
pics of the interior always tell the story.....the ext can vary quite a bit....

pic 9 has been left outside quite a bit...hence the paint loss...but that's usually uv paint loss....which can mean a dry life...

pic 8...i'd look at the interior corners and around the windows for staining...as well as the overhead vent....corner staining on the interior skin is not a good sign...nor any staining.

I've never seen those 3 lines of screws by the guides....but both campers have them...same manufacture?
 
Here are a few pictures of the tailgate mod that I had to do. I cut the driver's side box off flush with the rest of the camper and narrowed the passenger side box about 3", so now my camper door looks a little offset even though it is centered. I like having one side of the camper minus the box because it lets me shove tents, hoses, cords etc up into the space.
lower-curbside-rear.jpg


curbside-wheel-well.jpg


alaskan-lower-left-rear.jpg


alaskan-roud-side-bottom.jpg

Also Rusty, here's the picture of the Nelsons and an Alaskan - it has the rows of screws, too.
ozzie-and-the-boys.jpg
 
it would be interesting to get a line on what those screws are attached to...none I've seen before have had them.

somebody was obviously installing them for a reason...Mine didn't have a drivers side box out either.....

Hall had alot of shops building them...even in Canada....all minor differences in them...plumbing, electrical...my NCO has the typical circuit breaker box over the entrance...my newer CO...nada...one, owner installed GFI leading the 120v side

BTW.....Nice paint job...that's with the cream window band, right
 
Thanks to all of you for the help. I'm learning a lot through your comments and am beginning to understand the various differences in appearance.
 
..that's with the cream window band, right
Click to expand...
Thanks, that's the one - here's a shot that almost shows the difference in the two sides of the door; the right side is tight to the truck bed wall, the left side has about a 5" gap allowing me to stuff junk up beside the camper.
ak_done_rear.jpg


I'm going to build a cargo box to strap to my tailgate for chairs, coolers, etc. - another project!
 
Rusty, that slideout drawer is my all time favorite mod on the Alaskan.

If you google "rusty alaskan camper side drawer" and go to the images, there's about five or so pictures of Rusty's drawer near the top of the list of images. Don't know why the source images on this site have disappeared, for me anyway.
 
Thanks Husky....

at the time of that posting I believe I had one of those free image shack subscriptions....after I had so many pictures in my file ....they came to me and said....that'll be $XYZ/month...no thanks...then they closed down the file and poof.....

I'll get them back up

Voila
 
It's my understanding these campers were, and still are made to order. Each new owner looks at floor plans and customizes the new unit to preference. Thus, every camper could be different from the last.
 
Do you have any contact info? And do they do their aluminum widthwise (8', 10', 12', 14' etc plus the inch at each end to bend down) or it strips (about 4' wide so you need 5 to do the roof and sides - with 2 seams in the roof)


Ripperj said:
Hemet RV can make you whatever sheet metal you may need, Steve is the guy to talk to.
Click to expand...
 
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